Hi Booey. Many people have asked for parts. Unfortunately, at the moment, it takes considerable effort and time to print off a complete set of parts for a reprap. Most of those with a working reprap are also working hard on their own projects and maintaining their own repraps, so have limited time and effort. This means that it often takes a personal connection to get the process started. Howby DaveR - Wanted
Hi Joe. Many people have asked for parts. Unfortunately, at the moment, it takes considerable effort and time to print off a complete set of parts for a reprap. Most of those with a working reprap are also working hard on their own projects and maintaining their own repraps, so have limited time and effort. This means that it often takes a personal connection to get the process started. Howevby DaveR - For Sale
If you have kapton tape, you can use that to insulate the nichrome. Wind kapton round the barrel, then carefully wind the nichrome, then more kapton, then more nichrome (if you need to wind more). Make sure that none of the nichrome coils are touching. I've build a couple of 'heating blocks' using wirewound resistors - and they work well. They're a bit harder to make, but they work. You need soby DaveR - Mechanics
Nice work! Congrats on getting it all working! I don't think your nozzle is particularly large - most I've heard about are 0.4-0.6. I'm assuming that distortion is caused by the layer start/end. If so,\ there might be some benefit in examining the start/stop timing. Also, you could try a filled object - especially if you can use the new host software, which starts in the middle of the internalby DaveR - RepRap Host
I know what you mean. It's a lot of postage. I've been thinking about possibly getting some UK PCBs made up too. However, it's difficult to justify - I have a working set of gen 2 electronics - getting a gen3 set 'because I want to'. :-) Does anyone else have experience getting boards made up?by DaveR - United Kingdom RepRap User Group
There are some notes on You will need the java3d and rxtx libraries. Good luck :-)by DaveR - RepRap Host
This sounds similar to a problem I had with the arduino.... - here's my notes from the builders wiki: Arduino Firmware using Ubuntu Linux After downloading the linux firmware from the arduino site, If you cannot select the ttyUSB0 port from the arduino software menu - the entire tools/serial port menu is greyed out - the it could be a permission problem for /dev/ttyUSB0 If you run as root sudby DaveR - RepRap Host
I've been using two 12ohm resistors (http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1109309) in parallel to make a single 6ohm heater. Both resistors are embedded into a single block of mild steel, wrapped in foil and forced into 7.5mm holes. This takes a few minutes to warm up to 220C, but once there is much easier to maintain at that temp because of the thermal inertia of a big blocby DaveR - Controllers
Hi Bruce. RepRap Guru NopHead has just finished a set of parts for a good cause: totalling over 75 hours build time, not including mistakes. It's a lot of effort to print out, so it's usually limited to close friends or someone with a vested interest, so I'm not too surprised. If I were you, I'd get my hands on one of your CNC platforms, and build a simple extruder to go on it - like a mcwireby DaveR - Reprappers
Standard remote controls use IR, so if you point a TV remote at a camera you can see whether IR is picked up or not on the preview. Video cameras with a low light facility often use IR lighting and IR sensitivity.by DaveR - Controllers
Common factor: all end with xx from yy. Could be a quick way to find/delete all msgsby DaveR - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Thanks for the tip. I was wondering where to get the Kapton tapeby DaveR - Plastic Extruder Working Group
The host won't run if there are libs missing. I know there's a min temp for the heater, but you can normally still move the steppers. My guess might be a power issue? try disconnecting the heater and steppers - do the driver lights still flash? You could also load up ReplicatorG - if you've got gcode firmware - you can see whether it's the software or firmware side.by DaveR - RepRap Host
Yep, you need to connect the green wire of the motherboard sensor to ground (black). See the RepRap instructions:by DaveR - Controllers
I don't mind ideas! It's just the implied expectation that somehow someone else is going to magically find time to do all the difficult research and development for you. Edison claimed "Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration.". It's developing a concept into a working prototype that's the difficult bit. :-) I think what you're suggesting is adding another x-y axis to a reprap with a prinby DaveR - General
values of random 255 or 0 is normally indicating an unconnected input. Since you can read the temp in some tests OK, check your pin numbers in pins.h in the firmware against the wires. It sounds like you've done that, though. Restart the host, watching for connect errors in the terminal window.... Are you using the gcode or SNAP firmware: sometimes the settings are in different places?by DaveR - RepRap Host
Green LED looks OK to me. I'd bet that most generic LEDs would work OK in the circuit - they're only for indication. Electronics can sometimes be very forgiving in values of components, and as long as the LED lights up, you're good. I've got a maplin mixed bag of LEDs (about 30 different types) for playing with, and they all seem to be very similar. Good luck! I hope you manage to find everyby DaveR - Controllers
OK, this might take a while, but: Go to the parts list : note down which part and how many: click through to the mouser page: the manufacturer part number from the mouser page can help you search through farnell: e.g. If you don't find an exact match : Most of the components are SMD size 1206. select this size first. Then, e.g. the resistor or capacator value : 10k get the list, and searcby DaveR - Controllers
I've used Farnell who seem to supply much more than maplin, in fact, they supply so much it's hard to find what you want! If you've got a parts list with numbers, they can probably help you - I even got the 'official' RRRF 100k thermistors from there, they seem to have/import a lot of parts from the US. You will need to buy minimum quantities of some parts though - paticularly SMD components -by DaveR - Controllers
Nice idea. one motor drives the rotation axis and also the z-axis at a massive rate of reduction. So, when printing a minimug, you will have 1 platform rotation height difference between the start and finish of the outer wall. To make this height difference minimal, you will have to gear the z-axis down by a lot - say 100 - which will give you a 1% difference in layer height between start andby DaveR - Mechanics
:-) I'm afraid you'll get a lot more support if you have a go, than posting ideas. Most of us have our own ideas we're busy with, testing out, and trying to get working - there's very little time left for real life, let alone anything else. Posting any idea, you'll get positive and negative comments. Truth is, no-one really knows - we can have a guess, maybe point out some obvious problem areaby DaveR - General
The only thing that would need to change for metric/imperial is the constant for Z_STEPS_PER_MM in the firmware. it's an easy change and metric will work fine.by DaveR - Controllers
Plug the HD in with everything else. Does it work? If so, leave plugged in for now. :-)by DaveR - Controllers
I was wondering whether the proximity of the nozzle raises the temp of the previous layers. If a heater bag of 70C is enough to help reduce warping, localised heating (through conduction or radiation) might be enough to raise the temp enough to reduce warping. This might also explain why printing slower (more contact/radiation time) reduces warping, and would also explain the shape of the commerby DaveR - General
Doh! I never realised there was a BfB forum...! Signing up now! Vaguely remember some of this from a long time ago... You're suggesting that the filament freezes with internal stresses (like safety glass?) Since the melting point of ABS is 105C, it's got over 100C to go from nozzle temp to freezing point. I don't think that it will cool quick enough to fix the stresses. One of my extruders thby DaveR - General
On this tutorial: I noticed a comment about adding a high-temperature liquid to help heat transfer (i.e. adding a dribble of vegetable oil). I'd previously wondered if this would help, given that so much of cooking relies on heat transfer at various speeds and temperatures - see Heston Blumenthal's stuff or here : Checking out the smoke temperatures for various oils it seems that Canola/rby DaveR - General
It was me who suggested a frying pan. I haven't tried it. a solid sheet of copper should work as well. In fact, anything that will spread the heat out *should* work - a solid metal sheet (baking tray) might spread heat enough to work? I also saw another comment about doing SMT soldering in a standard oven - although the temperature control is not that accurate, you can use a kitchen thermometerby DaveR - General
Java software is held in a subversion repository. more details on wiki pageby DaveR - General