QuoteTrakyan If you want to build one of each type, just curious, is that one of each type of machine (core xy, replicator style gantry, ultimaker style, delta, scara, polar) or just to have one cartesian, one delta and one scara/polar. Depending on your answer, is a simpson on the list? As for good prusa/mendel kits I quite like the look of the tevo tarantula. Alumjnium frame is nicer than acrylby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotejinx you should forget kits and start building contacts with parts supplier you got corexy in the collection yet ? have a peek at the hypercube on thingiverse or the H300 " which is the dual Zaxis of the hypercube The reason I generally start with a kit is that I can't get ala-carte parts as cheap as I can get those parts by buying a kit. The one exception to that rule is my micro Kosby dlc60 - Reprappers
Looking for Christmas gift suggestions. What is a decent, inexpensive Prusa/Mendel printer? I have built a FolgerTech Kossel kit, and a Cartesian and two other delta printers from scratch. So, I am not afraid of crappy instructions as long as the parts are good and the kit is solid. I am on a quest to build at least one of every type of printer. Hmm, maybe an SLA printer? Hmm... Thanks,by dlc60 - Reprappers
I think that I figured out the stepper problem. The super-heating steppers measure about 24 ohm across the windings. My other steppers are between 2 and 6 ohms. This leads me to believe that they sent me 24V steppers instead of ones better suited for 12V. I have looked at two other sets of steppers in printers and these are the only ones with such high winding resistance. The two ohm windingby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotenumber40fan I was asking about the drivers to help identify them. .25v seems really low, but if they work.... The driver boards are blue, but they exactly match the green 4988 drivers. I checked that too. The docs imply blue is the 8825 driver, but that is very clearly not the case. 0.25 IS low, very low, and during one run a stepper skipped, which put the rest of the print off to one siby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotenumber40fan What color are they? Have any pictures? Sorry, what are you asking the color of? I will post pictures of my project as soon as I clean it up a little. I have the controller board mounted on the outside of the printer so that it is easy to "fiddle" with while I am tuning. Some of it is custom, some of it comes from other Thingiverse Things and some of it started as someone elby dlc60 - Reprappers
Continuing the saga. I have it printing. I replaced the faulty 40mm fan with the other 40mm fan FLsun sent. It works better. Everything is working, I just need to tune it up to work well. My first successful 20mm cal cube measures 20.3x20.4x20.3. OK, those smooth rod guesses worked pretty well. I have the extruder pretty close and my steps/mm are obviously well on. But... My steppers get HOby dlc60 - Reprappers
That is one of the docs that I found. All in all I like this board. It is nicely integrated. I set my stepper drivers like I set all my other StepStick boards. But my steppers are very loud and run hotter than they should so I don't think that these are biased the same. I will be dropping the setting from 0.81V to 0.61 and see how that goes. I am assuming these are set to 1/16 micro steps sinceby dlc60 - Reprappers
First off, I got the FLsun Kossel kit just for the 2020 rails and the linear glides and steppers. I have my own hot end, plastic pieces and carriage parts from another project. This was just a way to get the other hardware "on the cheap". Needless to say, I ignored all the build instructions (which are incomplete and pretty laughable actually) except for those involving the linear glides (whicby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedlc60 Probably so. But now I have 90% of an extruder and some fine metal dust. I was very careful about tightening that last screw while grumbling about a design that had no safeguards to prevent over tightening. The design is such that the blasted screw will just keep backing out. The lock washer is not much of an asset, I suspect that if one tightened it down enough to prevent the screw bby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteblueskiesresearch Here's another attempt at printing. The quality is a bit better. Extruder temperature set at 175C, bed temperature set at 53C. At room temperature after the printer has reached thermal equilibrium, the extruder reports 16C, the bed reports 26C. The truth is probably somewhere in between! What is your room temperature? You say the head reads 16C and the bed 26C. Not goby dlc60 - Reprappers
Also, printing directly on your heater plate will not be a path to success. Get a borosilicate glass top and some wide kapton tape. I found that this combo with a very light dusting of the hairspray will stick just about anything down. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteblueskiesresearch Here's my second attempt. I've stopped using hairspray and instead am using high temperature tape on the glass bed. Adhesion to the tape was very good (as you can see the bottom surface of the cube is green - some tape was stripped off while peeling off the cube from it) Nevertheless there is still a visible slant to the cube. I am not an expert so perhaps others can coby dlc60 - Reprappers
Probably so. But now I have 90% of an extruder and some fine metal dust. I was very careful about tightening that last screw while grumbling about a design that had no safeguards to prevent over tightening. The design is such that the blasted screw will just keep backing out. The lock washer is not much of an asset, I suspect that if one tightened it down enough to prevent the screw backing outby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteblueskiesresearch Hi all, I've been trying to print some gears with a new Reprap Prusa i3 printer. The nozzle orifice diameter is 0.4mm. The print quality is really bad - the gears don't mesh at all. I am new to 3d printing so can anyone advise if I should be able to print working gears with my setup and if so, where to start improving the quality of my prints? Attached are photos of theby dlc60 - Reprappers
You make a compelling point that is worth looking into. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Make your own before you tear your current one down. I built this Thingiverse geared extruder (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:359923). It was simple and used cheap, easy to find parts. Best of all it worked great. I have used it on two machines and it has never let me down. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
I had this happen once. The set screw on the stepper gear had backed out and not all of the rotation translated into filament movement. Nothing sounded bad, nothing overheated or errors out, I just got under extrusion. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
As the screaching got worse I tore the extruder down to find the inside covered in red dust and lots of metal shavings. The hearings on the extruder gear have self-destructed, which explained the metal on metal sound. While watching the thing I noted that the filament tensioner was moving back and forth with the extraction cycle, which I found odd. I talked with the folks at MatterHackers andby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotenumber40fan How about a hotend/part cooling fan combo? I want more control over the part blower. I think that I will design a 30mm heatbreak cooler and a 25mm part fan. 30mm works for the E3Dv6, so... Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe QuoteI am using a Arduino Mega/Ramps 1.4 controller with the Reprap smart graphics controller (with SD card) I'm glad you made it work, but the graphic LCD on a Delta usually causes stuttering steppers. If you notice any of that, you better choose the 20x4 LCD. Maybe the Marlin guys have solved this issue, because on Repetier it is known to run smoother. So it's not only a hardwareby dlc60 - Reprappers
I re-meshed a carriage that used m5 bolts and ran with the big, ugly shower door rollers. They work fine, just a bit big on this design. And I completed the prototype. My MicroKossel delta uses Makerbeam XL extruded aluminum (1515). The vertical rails are 300mm tall and 150mm for the side rails. I redesigned some Mini Kossel bottom corners to take either NEMA14 or NEMA17 steppers. This protby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 you could check out think3dprint3d they used some mini wheels on 15x15 extrusion on there mini Kossel design they may well have some wheels spare (think they might be M3 though) V-Wheels Ouch! Spendy! Thanks for the link though. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Alternatively, you can lighten your print head perhaps. It seems an odd design that failed to take this into account. If the rail is truly sagging then the mesh leveling firmware will not perfectly solve the problem because it likely isn’t exactly repeatable. One test of your current bed flatness might be to get a borosilicate glass plate to put on your bed, that will likely be quite flat, seeby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteMechaBits I have 5x IKO 9mm Linear Guides 275mm long(ish) with dual carriages that I might not get around to using, open to offer. Thanks for the offer! I think that they would still be too long though, the rails sre 300mm, but I use about 30mm up with the top and bottom corners. What I did was mod the “door roller” mounts to be m5 instead of m4 and used the standard hardware. Yeah, itby dlc60 - Reprappers
I hear what you are saying. For me PLA is for "art" pieces and toys, figures. My current favorite is PETG. It is harder and more flexible than PLA as well as higher temperature tolerance. It is not as flexible or tough as ABS, but the lower shrinkage compared to ABS means it is far, far easier to print without extraordinary measures. I also love its glossy finish. I have found my new filamentby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedlc60 Quotejinx heres a mount with a 3mm spacing if that fails you can find a 2 mm spacer titan mount Thanks for your effort! The E3D site has a SCAD file that allows you to gen the spacer you require. So I made a 3mm one that now allows the stepper spur gear to sit low enough to be flush with the extruder gear. I rebuild my Titan with a longer bolt that bottoms out in the extruder shaftby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe I'd use linear rails like mgn9 instead of the 1515 towers. That way you gain a lot of printarea and the carriers can be much smaller too. OTOH,you could probably replace the bearings in the wheels to match M4 screws. Your bearing idea is pretty. Good. The rails are a non-starter however, I am crafting a truly desktop Kossel that is only 30cm tall and rails are spendy, and not allby dlc60 - Reprappers
I am building a "tiny" desktop Kossel Delta using 1515 extrusions. I have done some of my own pieces, but found a project on Thingiverse whose carriages use wheels whose bore is m4. My carriage wheels are m5, so my choices are roll my own carriage for m5 bore wheels or find out where to get nylon rollers like the common Kossel m5 bore wheels, that are m4 bore. So. Do such things as nylon wheelsby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotexyze Quotedlc60 Oh, if anyone out there uses BuildTak, what do you do when removing a part pulls "dimples" in the surface? Is there any way to get it flat again or do I just have to pull it off and burn another $10 to replace it? Thanks, DLC Don't use BuildTak. I could not get a sheet of BuildTak to last for even one roll of filament without forming dimples on the surface. Buy a sheet ofby dlc60 - Reprappers