I know that sounds like an odd question... I replaced the heat break on a four year old hot end because it was damaged. I got a bunch of 30mm standard heat breaks with PTFE liners to do this and it worked great. Until one day when I replaced a spool of filament and pulled the liner out with it, which jammed it into the extruder gear, which chewed the liner up. So. When installing a heat break tby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotejinx Quotefrank As per @Jinx, you need to assemble the hotend while it is hot. I don't think it needs to be at 280C though... I just do it at normal printing temperature. the 280C came from the notion, had to tighten up some degrees above what you gonna use the hotend at, so if you at 260 with abs 280 doesnt seem to bad you mind if I ever quote those four steps you explained it so much beby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteFA-MAS Your endstops are setup as MAX endstops correct? What does it report as the position when you've homed and issue an M119? Correct. M119 reports the max Z value coded into the firmware. Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
As stated, you really can't connect two different PSU's in parallel to add to their current. The PSU uses its output as an input to its circuitry to handle regulation so putting two in parallel will confuse both PSU's and mess up their voltage output regulation. Proper wire gauge selection will allow you to use a 30 Amp 12V supply for your bed heater with no fear of fires or any other problem.by dlc60 - Reprappers
I have finally beaten this problem, with a little help you folks of course. Here is what I had to do: Replace heat break tube Replace nozzle AND pre-wrap it with Teflon plumbers tape to fill in the heat block's thread gaps. Replace heater cartridge Replace Thermister Adjust exact length of the heat break from the mount block and replace defective nut that held it there. Adjust flow rate and modifby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotefrankvdh Try taking the nozzle out and putting your DVM probe inside the hotend. That should give you a consistent temperature pretty close to what the thermocouple sees. That is a really good idea. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan Going faster is a non issue. Extruder motors, even geared ones, are running no where near their top speed when extruding, there's plenty of headroom to go faster. That and I'm wanting a small, light extruder so a thicker motor is out of the question. A 20 mm motor doesn't appear to have enough torque to extrude on its own, or at least I haven't seen anyone try. You know that's a goby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan Added gearing does increase your torque which is an issue when going fast or when using smaller motors. 20 mm nema 17s cant really keep up at 100+ mm/s on their own, they click and lose steps. Even thicker ~40 mm motors click at higher speed, so gearing is useful for the torque it provides. That being said, good point about the resolution, and I'll keep it in mind. As for the dual dby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedev0drps BuildAThing, How do you get the measurements correct. Is there a calibration guide that I can use? I have a pair of calipers that I recently just bought I'm guessing that I will need to measure out some filament, but is there an equation of a guide to get the right steps? Can you point me in the right direction? It is actually pretty easy. You can first calculate it and then tweaby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuotePeterHi I had the same problem, the hotend temperature was not in sync with the recommended temperature for the PLA. You can measure the temperature from aluminum with a IR gun, but you have to adapt the emission factor to the material. The range for aluminum is quite large, it depends on the surface.In addition the measuring spot on my IR thermometer is several cm² and measuring reliableby dlc60 - Reprappers
This is a hard one to explain. When I use either the jog controls or even send G code direct (G0 X0 Y0 Z250) using the communications command line, to move the hot end down off of the end stops, first the one or more of the tower sliders goes UP past the end stops a bit, then drops down. This stresses the belts and distresses me. This happens whether I use the jog console to home or send the G2by dlc60 - Reprappers
Yes there is a LOT of PLA ooze coming out of the threads! Both the heat break and the nozzle are tight and still it oozes. I am indeed looking at replacing the block. First I will try plumbers tape to fill the gaps. And again, yes the tube seems to be at an angle. But really it is the nut that is threaded poorly. I will report back with the results of my rebuild. Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
I am not having much luck with the DVM and thermocouple checking. If I trust what I have my heads never get over 170C. It also takes a long time to reach a stable temperature. Is this what everyone sees with these? DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have a Vellman with a K-type thermocouple. I'll tape the probe to the heat block and see what it says. These often do not move very quickly because of their thermal mass on that long stem. I wonder if smearing some black PLA on the heat block will allow the IR thermometer to work.by dlc60 - Reprappers
Hi all, I'd like to confirm the temperature settings on my printer. I have a non-contact IR "gun" that measures the bed just fine (and it is quite close to what the code thinks). However, it can't seem to measure or focus on the heater block. What does everyone else use to confirm temperature values? Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan Hey guys, again just wanting an opinion from people, several in this case. I'm not going to get into bowden vs direct drive because that's another conversation and they both have their own fairly obvious purposes and advantages in terms of moving mass and more control over extrusion. There isn't much to choose when it comes to extruders, but there are still some things to choose. Fiby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteRoberts_Clif Yes the PTFE can become distorted cause your delima, Have had several filament throat Barrel PTFE liners go bad. Been told that if you change from PLA to ABA and back to PLA the different materials leaves a residue this causes the filament to get stuck in the Nozzle. When replacing the throat Barrel make sure the barrel is screwed in far enough so when you screw the nozzle in iby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have a frustrating problem and my knowledge is incomplete. A friend gave me a box of parts and a Drop Box list of supplies, mechanical drawings and STL files to make a large bed Cartesian printer. It is assembled and works. Mostly. The printhead came from a nameless Chinese supplier that called it a "Makerbox Mendel Print head". I have a picture of it attached. It has a massive heater blockby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteRudydG There are 3 options (beside using 1 head, and the same material as support) -Hips, but there you need chemicals to remove it. -Pva, only tapwater to remove this material. -Polymaker's Polysupport. Easy to remove, but functionaly the same as using the same material, but with almost no traces. Ps, dual extrusion (what you need for there support options) is not easy, and requires quite aby dlc60 - Printing
This sounds great. Consistent "stick" is definitely the holy grail. But nothing lasts forever, damage is a given, especially if you end up using a razor, etc to pry something off the bed. How easy is it to get LokBuild off of the bed? I have a heated aluminum plate, which has hot spots that cause me issues on occasion - I have been planning on putting a glass plate on top to smooth out the tempby dlc60 - General
QuoteOrigamib I highly doubt you have humidity issues in your spools in Colorado... I keep my spools in large Tupperware boxes filled with orange/green desiccant. It changes colour when it has taken on too much water, and then I bake it in the oven to renew it. Silica gel can also be baked to renew it but you won't know when. its ready. The popping is the moisture in the filament boiling, expanby dlc60 - General
QuoteOrigamib QuoteMCcarman I have some suspicions that water absorption causes this. It is only a suspicion. You are clearly extruding enough material for it to "squish" and its obviously hot enough to flow and to bond with its neighbour. So why does it not stick to the bed? Hence I suspect there are small bubbles trapped under the filament that expand and cause it to lift. If it is too squisheby dlc60 - General
I just started having issues with my Kossel printer that are puzzling. Basically, even though I am using the same filament temperature and the same bed temperature AND the same filament, suddenly it stopped adhering to the bed. Hmm. This kind of problem comes up often it seems. The last time the hot end heater element had come unscrewed a tiny bit. This is what a "raft" looks like on its fby dlc60 - General
I am looking at a two extruder head soon. I have to decide on a one or two nozzle one. Regardless, this is a home hobby thing and I am unlikely to use a nasty chemical dissolver for my typically PLA projects. What would be a good material to use if I just wanted something super brittle that snaps off? Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Printing
I think that I would rather use painters tape. :-) DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteElerion Quotedlc60 What voltage did you tune the Chinese knock-off stepper drivers to? I am uncertain as to the bias resistor and would be guessing. Hehehe... I actually did not have any issues with the drivers or the motors. I beleave out of the box voltage was 12,20, which I thought was fine and didn't mess with it. I did however pay special attention not to put any unnessesary strain oby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Elerion, What voltage did you tune the Chinese knock-off stepper drivers to? I am uncertain as to the bias resistor and would be guessing. The SD-card we got did not have any firmware image on it, is the website image a recent version of the firmware or ancient one? The Folger Teck Marlin firmware on my Kossel kit is over six years old so I am hoping that the k200 one is newer vintage! Did itby dlc60 - Delta Machines
I bought an he3d kossel for my son and I to build. It got what seemed reasonable reviews and it was inexpensive. The box came, after a long wait and was really well packed and organized. However, the bill of materials did not match the order and some parts were missing, other parts were simply called something else. There are no written instructions, only a series of laughable videos done as sileby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quotecwaa When I was building my printer, I wanted a Wade extruder and I had one made. I asked for ABS, but apparently it was made from PLA. I put it on the back seat and drove home. When I got there the extruder motor mount was warped from the sun. What a piece of shit plastic. I have never printed with PLA myself in over 1 1/2 years of printing. I have two rolls still in the plastic wrap,by dlc60 - Reprappers
I saw every one of those things you mentioned. Either you have a great memory or you wrote down all of the wrong steps and your corrections. I have some comments on your list of things. I too think that this is a pretty good kit. There are some quality bits in there, like a genuine Arduino Mega board and RAMPS controller. The Stepstick stepper drivers are quality as well. 1: The manual specby dlc60 - Delta Machines