Quote Should I reposition my bed mounting screws so they are aligned with towers, before I start the process? For the life of me, I don't know. I didn't even look on my deltas, I just did the leveling. The leveling screws are in the X/Y directions on a Cartesian printer because the supports for the bed are in X and Y, so that might just be coincidence. DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
There are a few kinds of filaments that you can use in your aquarium. Some PLA and PETG are specifically labeled as food safe. Look for that "food safe" label. ABS is right out. Most colored PLA is also not a good choice either because of the chemicals used to give it color. Use an "all metal" hotend and a stainless steel nozzle. These will be free of icky additives, and will also assureby dlc60 - General
QuoteNAP1947 Dlc60, good technical article with much of it very way over my head and understanding. I read the 3 point process very carefully but this seems to be for a Prusa type printer not a Delta. I could find nothing that helps me solve my DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD dilemma. I am willing to bet that your delta has three screws to level it. The same rules apply, trust me. The DSR dilemma comes becausby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteNAP1947 Dlc60, I am trying to calibrate my FLSUN Mini using the manual method and have been having problems because the guides I have followed all refer to final adjustments to the “DELTA SMOOTH ROD” setting which I cannot find in any version of Marlin I can download. I tried to search for the “DigitalDentist” pages without success, can you provide a link to those articles please? Thanks Trby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quotemcrum I've been working on a Micromake D1 for a while now. I've upgraded to an SKR 1.3 board and bl touch. My problem is with auto calibration or bed leveling. The print head comes down and stops a bit above the bed then moves down to probe but doesn't reach the bed and the bl touch isn't triggered. This results in the calibration failing. Any suggestions? Thanks, Michael Please don't takeby dlc60 - Delta Machines
My 300mm square x 5mm thick aluminum plate with a 150W, 12V silicone heater taped to it with that 3M high-temperature double-sticky tape, backed by aluminum foil and cardboard insulated will heat to 75C in about 6 minutes. I am the slow poke here. DLCby dlc60 - General
QuoteOhmarinus Honestly, I'm not a 100% sure, but can it be that the blue plastic piece can be mounted upside down? Because that is what's causing the issue of it not being able to rotate a 90º. I turned the blue plastic part around and that way I could mount it perfectly 90º. I know it's meant to be on like this, but it works fine when it's upside down and then you have the space! That is a gooby dlc60 - General
I found the problem. Any guesses? The heater block was loose. When cold, the block did not move, when hot, you don't reach in there to move it... But after one frustrating failure, while the hot end was still hot I used my brass brush to clean it off and the heater moved. Duh. What caused this was was interesting. In general, I secure wires tightly to keep them from moving, especially on a deby dlc60 - Reprappers
No, it isn't the trick. It just moved the needle a bit. Here are a couple of pictures of what happens. I do not understand what is going on with this and am wondering if there is something wrong with the design. It looks like one layer does not get printed, and the print offsets a little bit and then continues on. This happens whenever a print is wider than some, as yet unknown, limit. Ifby dlc60 - Reprappers
That is pretty cool. What made you conceive of this project? DLCby dlc60 - Look what I made!
Quoteleadinglights QuoteMKSA ............................................................................. So no need for "conversation", just build the prototypes and prove your points. ....................................... Hmmm, and I always thought that a forum was a place you come to discuss ideas, to have a conversation. I never realised that it is just a place to present a glorious andby dlc60 - Look what I made!
QuoteKASA I am currently trying to modify my printer to use an E3D V6 Hotend but I have to work with limited space. My current mounting idea leaves only a few millimeters of clearance behind the air outlet behind the heatsink before the Extruder carriage. Here’s an Image: Is this enough to ensure enough cooling of the heatsink? I do not think so. I have had problems with my E3Dv6 when I had aby dlc60 - General
QuoteDust That your Z endstop is triggered. So this is a warning that it got triggered during a print? Hmm, that is problematic. It would mean that my switch has developed some kind of hysteresis that it did not have previously. That could compromise the bed zero point, especially if it triggered too high at just the wrong time. Time to troubleshoot the endstop setup. Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Background: Anet A8 (lots of custom upgrades, yadda yadda. Marlin 1.1.8 I am seeing"Endstops Z" printed at the bottom of the LCD display lately. I haven't a clue what that means. I am SURE that this has come up here before, unfortunately, the search engine and I do not see eye-to-eye and I can't find a thread with that topic name. So, I guess that I'll try to see if someone can refer me, or haby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteVDX ... add "floating" to the "3D-printed homes" -- this will adress much more problems with the actually drowning micro-nations (and look into my signature) That was the first thing that came to mind. DLCby dlc60 - General
We have a few "problems" in the world these days. This could be a game changer, if it really works out. DLCby dlc60 - General
It looks like increasing the current was the trick. This is no great surprise. What WAS a surprise was to see that I had the bias voltage on my 9855 stepsticks at .3V, which translates to about 550ma. I increased that to .39V, about 710ma. So far so good. I am glad that I put the fan blowing into the stepper cavity, the steppers might get a bit warmer... So here is some anecdotal evidence tby dlc60 - Reprappers
It sounds like your end stop for whichever axis is "chattering" has failed. Either a wire broke, or a connector came out or you got a static zap that killed that part of the board. DLCby dlc60 - Printing
Interesting problem with my custom scratch-built makerbeam XL micro delta printer. I have a custom "micro" delta printer that I designed as a portable table-top-toy-printer. 70mm diameter and 90mm height (yeah, LITTLE). I can print anything that I want as long as my print area is under 35mm on the bed. Above that and I get layer shifts at about 10mm up from the bed. My print speeds are betby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist Do not think that because you can't smell anything there's nothing there to harm you. Carbon monoxide is one of thousands of compounds that are odorless and harmful to inhale. This problem is far more complicated than most people realize. What you breathe outside of your house is killing you. I can't do everything, but I can do something. DLCby dlc60 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotedlc60 Quoteimqqmi I now use an air cleaner/purifier with HEPA and carbon filters. It auto detects micro particles and turns on automatically. When printing a longer print in PLA, the indicator light turns red indicating the air quality is very bad. After an hour after printing the smell is gone and the indicator turns blue (clean air). It definitely helps with stinging eyes and a slight irrby dlc60 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotefrankvdh I've just upgraded my new HE3D sky to dual extruders, but I seem to have a huge drool problem (or at least my printer has). My biggest concern is the white line above the 'B'. It is fused into the green, and I really only want green there! I could live with the furry bits if I had to... they're easy enough to scrape off. But I suspect that they're another symptom of whatever isby dlc60 - Printing
Quotekilzone0007 Hello, I'm having a big problem, I bought a MKS GEN l 1.0 card because the original board of my anet a8 gave problem, until then ok, I downloaded marlin 1.1.9 and made some changes to work correctly on the board and when I went to test the engines did not work (I thought it was the driver (DRV8825) I changed and still did not work so I thought it was the faulty engine but when Iby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteadnanrk Hello eneryone!! Story: I recently completed building my custom 3D printer with latest marlin firmware 1.1.9 installed in it.I am using Ramps 1.4 controller(on arduino mega 2560) with Repetier Host for priting. everything works completely fine except 2 major issues and i dont know what is causig this. Problem:2 Nozzle gets jammed at anytime during print,extruder keeps trying to puby dlc60 - General
QuoteKeshan I am not sure if I fully understand your question, my wires are red-blue-green-black from left to right just like my other 3 motors. Are you sure? Is the cable to the extruder stepper broken in some way? The silliest, and most obvious things can be the problem and we don't see it because of our assumptions. DLCby dlc60 - General
Your wiring to the E motor? DLCby dlc60 - General
QuoteNAP1947 I had my FLSUN Delta working quite well for a beginner up to the point I warped the heated bed. I replaced the thin aluminum bed with a plate of plate aluminum machined to 1/4” and same diameter as original, still heated. Now I am trying to reset Marlin and Repetier to the new Delta Height of 306.9mm which was determined by using the -100, -1 and -0.1 Z control in Repetier. I updatedby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quotesolly747 Hey folks. I have an issue with a marlin fw file I'm trying to upload. I got it to upload with all the changes I needed, but after I upload it, the screen goes blank. I'm using the standard reprap smart display 12864. I'm uploading it to my MKS GEN L board. I have 2 of these boards and also 2 displays, and I have tried both and they both priduce the same results. I can load a dby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
Quotevladoff Thank you for your suggestion. I am using Simplify3d and I have not seen such an option. As for the firmware, I am not familiar with it. It is about German Reprap X400. I thought the calibration was done by the supplier. I was trying dual heads printing for the first time. I noticed when I select one or another head in the machine control panel, they moved to zero position, butby dlc60 - Printing
Quotefoul_owl I need to shrink just the first layer by 0.3%. My print is coming out perfectly except the first layer bulges out a tiny tiny bit due to it being the first layer and getting compressed slightly on the glass. I would prefer to not have to take a razor blade to all my prints to remove this excess, it is time consuming. I'm printing some things to fit together and this is an annoyinby dlc60 - Printing