I think he meant that the standard pressure block will not work without a ball bearing. Your modified block will work, but it won't be a long term solution. The more you tighten the bolts (in order for the teeth to get better purchase in the filament), the more friction you are going to have. The extra friction, especially static friction, might offset any benefit of having the teeth bite in moby Buback - Plastic Extruder Working Group
same experience here. they always send off cuts when i've ordered, which is a nice plus. i've got a nice selection of colors from them now from all the offcuts :-)by Buback - General
Just wondering. Lots of people have questions and they get posted all over the place. it would make sense to add a forum to the software category for repsnapper. hopefully, devs will use it as well to post suggestions on improving the code.by Buback - RepSnapper
I think that if you can assemble a computer and change your own motor oil, you'll be able to assemble a Mendel. you will have to learn some new skills, and being handy with tools helps. in fact, knowing someone with a basement full of tools helps immensely. If you don't have that, you can get by but it will just cost more. trying to do it all on your own will increase how long it takes to build,by Buback - General
or a "now serving order number X" like at a deli. I'm order 520-something, and still pending. I made my order on the 11th, i think. as i said before, i had to wait a while for the gen 6, but now that i have it i think it's worth the wait. this new order is for the hot end they're selling.by Buback - General
gen 6 currently only supports 4 steppers (X, Y, Z and one E), 1 heater/thermistor, and 3 opto endstops. there are future plans for add on boards to drive a heated bed, but currently there isn't anything planed for additional steppers, as far as I've read. It's a great solution for a stock 3d printer (even a basic repstrap), but currently inadequate if you are going to experiment with different dby Buback - Controllers
Does the z axis move easily at that spot when turned by hand?by Buback - General
yes, if someone is adventurous or foolish enough to build a design with no documentation they shouldn't expect any help. After all, they would essentially be the 'expert' for that design anyway, in due time. We would need their help with the documentation, not the other way round. I added a troubleshooting category, as a subcategory of reference.by Buback - Administration, Announcements, Policy
I'm guessing drilling a hole in a safe isn't going to be that easy, or shouldn't be. After all, it's a safe.by Buback - Reprappers
This might be informative: SAE Mendel This page needs a lot more info, though. Anybody that's using SAE; please look it over and see if there's anything you'd add/change. And don't forget to get 5/16 nuts!by Buback - General
7.9 mm = 0.3110 inches 7.9375 mm = 0.3125 inches = 5/16 8 mm = 0.3149 inches of course, it depends on the tolerance they are grinding them to, but 5/16 is pretty close. it's what i'm using (mainly because i couldn't find extruded carbon fiber in metric sizes for a reasonable price.) If you can, get 48" lengths. you only need two 48" lengths to cut all 6 bearing rods. you'll have to reduce the lby Buback - General
Here's a useful wikipedia article on glass to metal seals. it's very informative. Glass-to-metal sealsby Buback - General
I've been thinking about glass recently; specifically, why does it always feel cold when it has such a low thermal conductivity? I know that that isn't really a scientific question, but it got me wondering anyway. I found some info at the corning museum of glass website regarding the thermal properties of glass. This was interesting: Quotewww.cmog.org Thermal conductivity is a measure of the aby Buback - General
If you, or others reading this thread, haven't seen it, there's a forum topic over in the polymer group discussing theories on why plastic sticks or doesn't stick. Theories on sticking/not sticking --- I would think the high thermal conduction of the aluminum bed cools the extruded filament down too fast. try adding a couple more layers of kapton, which might act as insulation.by Buback - General
the only thing i had to do was connect the green to the black. I don't think it's the psu that is the issue. if you are getting +12v, then it's something else. it actually sounds, to me, like the motor is energized and waiting for commands.by Buback - Controllers
Looks great! Congrats! I have a request, though: I'd like to encourage you to "publish" your work on the wiki, once it's all up and running, and you have some free time. to start, all you would need to do is cut and paste your build log into the wiki, and if you don't want to do any more than that, that's fine. others will jump in to clean it up and make it presentable.by Buback - General New Machines Topics
I've always wondered "why blue tape?" isn't it just masking tape that's colored blue so that it's easy to see if you didn't line it up properly when painting around windows and doors? Has anybody tried just masking tape? it's slightly cheaper (~$1) -- Unfortunately there are a number of equally important considerations, such as cost, flatness. it's a juggling act. we need some grad students toby Buback - Polymer Working Group
So for a rough surface, you need an intermediary that fills the cracks on one side, and bonds to the plastic on the other. or fills the crack on one side and creates more compatible cracks on the other. that's currently blue tape for PLA and kapton tape for ABS I'm guessing that glass and kapton, even though they have less surface area than a rougher surface, have more surface contact, since tby Buback - Polymer Working Group
it could also say "//uncomment the following line to turn on accelerations." removing the // from //#define ACCELERATION_ON would then turn on accelerationby Buback - Firmware - mainstream and related support
yes i forgot to mention that the flanged nozzle is my preferred choice. it should be the strongest and simplest of the metal nozzle designs. I also want to post about the cold end attachment i'm using. Wade's has a 16mm diameter by 10 mm tall cavity in the bottom, where the filament exits the extruder. I filled this cavity with leftover M8 washers. (I don't know if they are standardized at 16mby Buback - General
yeah i'll have to use some sort of gasket. i'm getting leaks; damn thermal expansion! I was hoping that the compression fitting would allow the use of unworked glass, but it seems like it will be a hassle to work out all the kinks. the aluminum expands slightly too much, so i have to tighten the fitting a bit too much, which will eventually lead to fractures in the glass. I think it is a greatby Buback - General
I think that would be ok, but but i see a couple problems to overcome: -The ring has to be big enough to slide over the end of the tube. the compression fitting then has to squeeze it into the notch, which might be a lot of travel. -I just assemble the plates, start the screws so it doesn't fall to pieces, and then set it on a table, orifice-down. then i push down on the glass and tighten the scby Buback - General
yeah i understood you, but i still think my available tooling will be a problem. If i don't drill the countersink perfectly centered, the pieces won't butt against each other and the gap will fill with plastic. I think that you would have to make a matched set of glass and nozzle. --- I wired up my hot end and gave it a test earlier. The result?: it slid right off after about 3mm of extrusion outby Buback - General
nice idea bruce! did you just screw them in more, or did you ream out the holes on an angle (or did you adjust the holes in cad and print them out)? I've been thinking about wire bracing and turn buckles. no plans yet, though.by Buback - Reprappers
rocket_scientist Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a glass > grinder, so I can grind down the flange to 8mm. I > can also make you one with a tapered tip that id > larger than 1mm so that different nozzle plates > can be pressed against it and still seal fairly > well. That would be great! I'm not sure about the tapered tip though; while itby Buback - General
I was surfing for techniques on how to drill with a .4 mm bit. I found this video on youtube about a diy electrical discharge machining drilling apparatus, which sounds pretty great. she says she uses 1 amp at 5 volts. Graphite pencil lead for mechanical pencils would be perfect for the electrode. I think a setup like this could be assembled for only a couple dollars, maybe even free if youby Buback - Plastic Extruder Working Group
How do i do this in the firmware. Are there benefits to using PID, even with a heater block?by Buback - Firmware - mainstream and related support
An update on my previous ideas: My mendel is done! it sings and dances, but still needs a hot end. Here is my progress so far. (you can see that there is a .5 mm gap between plates 4 and 3. This is because i haven't cranked down on the screws; i'm scared of breaking the glass. the other 3 plates have no gaps between them. what looks like a gap between plates 1 and 2 is actually just a shadow fby Buback - General
Hi Nonaak There are others here from the Netherlands that might be able to point you to better resources, but i'll chime in for now. as far as i've seen, FiveD on Arduino is the best documented on the reprap wiki. There is also this forum: You might find your cnc answers there Here's a blog about a cnc mill or here on the reprap wikiby Buback - General