Thanks! I kept looking for steps per rev or degrees per step. The firmware is standard fiveD with a couple adjustments, according to mendel-parts.comby Buback - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Phidgets.com has .9 degree NEMA 17s for the same price as 1.8 degree. Will I have to make any changes to the firmware or software? Edit: I should say, I KNOW i'll need to make changes, but can't find where. I'm using redsnapper (for now) and gen6 electronicsby Buback - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
yeah I have 4 mm particle board for the frog and even with that the belt that runs under it is pretty close. I think that if you took off the 2 lower bearings you will get more room. This might make it touch the stock stepper drivers, though, if you are mounting them underneath the bed (i don't know how tall they are, so might be moot).by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Just the words "thermometer" and "glass" got me thinking about an actual spirit thermometer. Maybe there is a way to use an optical switch like our endstops, clamped to a thermometer so that when the liquid in the thermometer rises it will block the light and trigger the opto. the switch would be far away from the actual heating zone. of course, it would be much harder to actually implement thaby Buback - General
Camiel of Mendel-parts.com started the page, and can be forgiven if it was largely a copy of his store's gen 6 page. Now that Gen 6 is out and there are files published, I'm trying to get the wiki page up to snuff, but don't feel confident suggesting specific parts, etc. because I'm still learning. If you bought the gen 6 electronics, or have been a rep raper for a while, please read over the wby Buback - Controllers
You could try conductive grease to protect the connection. I learned a lot from the recent grease discussion, and dielectric grease might help.by Buback - Controllers
peer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What does that mean? Putting a sticker on > something makes it what the sticker says? Would be > wonderful if that worked... > No, a reprap is a reprap because it's a > replicating rapid-prototyper, and no sticker makes > anything a reprap if it doesn't match these > criteria. I said official but I shouldby Buback - General
So if i understand correctly, using the above example of 1/8 microstepping, if you were to do 8/8 steps at a time it would only energize 1 coil at a time. does this skip the intermediary steps? this would be the same as 1/1 stepping, but would you would get full torque? the reason i ask is because i've read that the loss in torque with ever smaller steps eventually results in lost steps, which wby Buback - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Mathematically, 8/8 microsteps and 1 full step are the same, but is that how it's treated physically? I'm thinking about the detents in the motor. Does the microstepping driver 'create' more detents/poles when it's powered on, or does it just hold the rotor in place between detents? I also think that you probably don't want to just switch to 1/1 stepping any time, but would proceed to the next dby Buback - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
If a driver does 1/8 microstepping, does that mean is is fixed at 1/8, or can it be changed dynamically in software? It seems it would make sense to do full steps when traveling in one axis, or when traveling large distances. I'm assuming that it would be harder to miss steps if they are larger steps. If this is the case, then it would be better to use a smaller step as you approach a turn or edby Buback - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I finally got the y carriage and bed installed, and I've notices that the rods bend a lot. Actually, it seems to only bend about 1 mm, if that, but there seems to be a lot of backlash somewhere in the system. I probably need to use more study materials for the bed and squashed frog, but my dad had the scrap wood at home. 1 mm is a lot of movement, though, so i'm not sure tubular material is theby Buback - General Mendel Topics
It's nearly $300 for just steppers and electronics (pre-made), regardless of which machine you build. I doubt it could be built cheaper than a wolfstrap. Wood is just cheaper than steel, period. but that's a 'Strap, not a 'Rap. Also, for this same botfarm example, if you are eventually going to sell huxleys, you might as well build them and work out the kinks in your production line.by Buback - General
Great idea! Along the same lines, I was thinking about some sort of sticker, like a PC case badge, that could be "sold" in exchange for a donation to reprap.org. Putting the sticker on your reprap would make it officially a reprap. best place would probably be on a Z baseplate, or make a dedicated sticker plate RP part.by Buback - General
It kinda seems like makerbot is selling out their stock of basic cupcakes. From their site: QuoteThis is now available for $649 which is a SUPER low price. Buy now, because when they are gone, they are gone! I think Mendel is cheapest IF you have the tools and know-how. Also, having scrap wood and various stuff around helps. Actually Huxley is probably cheapest, although i don't know if anybodyby Buback - General
But then again, that's $4/hr per machine.by Buback - General
oh yeah, duh! I should have realized that. thanks for pointing that out.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
That wiki page must have been hiding! It does mention PTFE 'oil', and i don't know if the author was just being loose with words, but i would think 'oil' means petroleum- based, which wouldn't be good, as far as I've read. Yes I would think that most printers have the proper grease in them. the often have plastic gears and ABS shells, so they would use compatible grease. I took apart many printby Buback - General
I read in the wiki that I should grease up the bearing rods with silicone grease. Is this the Dielectric grease I can get at the hardware/auto parts store? Is silicone grease all the same (generally) or do i need something specific. What about lithium grease? will this do bad things to the repraped parts?by Buback - General
I've taken some measurements and pictures. I've worked out the angle at which the two types (CF and steel) start to move. Steel starts rolling at ~8 degrees off of level, CF starts at ~14.5 degrees. My numbers aren't very scientific, mind you. the CF is tubular and cut to size, the steel is solid and 42 mm longer. However, I'm pretty sure that it's mainly the difference in mass between the twoby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Tying each knot, for each belt, would also be a huge chore. I was looking at the belts yesterday and 5 mm between knots would be too much to tie. 10 mm would be more reasonable. Perhaps there's a knitting or weaving pattern out there that would work. That would be faster and more consistent.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
ah that's cool too. those would probably work more smoothly than the regular pulleys (If the knots work at all with the regular pulleys). A new user could print these pulleys, or something similar, for a better print quality maybe? The idea for using knots and string is that people probably have string at home. They can then get up and printing, at least in a basic form, and hold off on gettingby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Just to be clear it would have lots of knots on it, about 1 per 5 mm (just like the belts) or 1 per 10 mm. like this ASCII version: End-&-&-&-&-&-&-&-&-.....-End simple overhand knot would be fine as long as the string has a bit of a diameter (i.e. not fishing line). Perhaps something like a fisherman's knot might have a more uniform shape.by Buback - General Mendel Topics
Sounds like an interesting idea! You would defiantly need to lock-tite all your nuts and bolts, and maybe isolate the extruder from the carriage with rubber or springs. you can also use vibration to deposit powders. If someone sells powdered solder, this would be useful for printing circuit boards, as you can just melt the solder later using the Hot-plate reflow technique.by Buback - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Any thoughts about trying this? Maybe the pulleys will need to be modified. The string will stretch (or not depending on what type of string you use) and require a lot of manual labor for the knotting, but it might be enough to get started. I'm not going to try this because I already bought belts and installed them, but if someone is just sourcing parts and wants to save $30, you might want to tby Buback - General Mendel Topics
yeah I think your right, although it does seem to grip a bit more. The CF tubing seems a bit tight between the ball bearings so maybe it just needs some adjusting for smoother movement. I observed the difference by trying both in the x carriage. When i held the carriage level, the steel bar moved easily on it's own when i tilted it slightly off-level. the CF didn't move on it's own when tiltedby Buback - General Mendel Topics
Yeah I like Nudel's idea of ways to stop the machine if there's a fault. Some users leave their machine unattended and go to work, but this kinda scares me, as i don't want to burn down my apartment. I also would like visual feedback like you suggested, but with 2-4 webcams instead of expensive 3d cameras (at least expensive for now). Some projects i've seen require cutting the 3d model in halby Buback - General
So I have the tubes all installed. I did put some dowel in the ends of the tubes and so i can really crank down on the clamps if i have to. They are light enough, though, that they don't need a lot of pressure to hold them tight. I had to put a 4-5 cm piece in the x axis ends, because the captive nut assembly clamps further down the x axis rods. I had some concern about using wood, as it mighby Buback - General Mendel Topics
I understand where your coming from koko. I used to sell camping equipment at a retail store, and people would always waste money on cheap crap instead of making a good investment in something much much better. On the other hand, I have no need for taps and dies (especially metric (stupid SAE)) other than for reprap. I'm probably only use it on plastic or soft metals, with the exception that I tby Buback - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > My file is here: > I don't > understand why you need to scale it though. It > should come out actual size, regardless of the > paper size, assuming it fits on. I.e. it should > always be printed 1:1 a lot of programs think you want the image scaled to paper size, and give no option to print actual size. Iby Buback - General Mendel Topics
pica Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I assume > you want to print one out on letter size paper, > paste it to some store-bought MDF and "scroll saw" > it out. Exactly. I knew I saw the simplified frog somewhere but it's not in the wiki, and I couldn't find a direct link or remember who posted about it. Should have known it was Nophead :-). At least nby Buback - General Mendel Topics