That happens, also stamps don't stick to sellotape either, they use a new supplier and the stamps are not as sticky and even if you take in proof of postage they don't refund if the stamp has fallen off Inquisitor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I was wondering. > > I shopped around every website I could find before > I decided to get my Huxley fromby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
What layer height are you using. It sounds like the layers aren't sticking together properly. Does the print stay flat on the bed with just the top curling? And is this with PLA or ABS?by NelsonRap - Reprappers
I doubt it I don't think they really thought through their comments. I gave up trying to get through wasn't worth the effortby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Or you can rotate the .stl file with netfabb basic if using windows. This is a very useful peice of software as it can mend broken mesh in poorly executed drawings as well as orientate objects. On the calibrating I found by removing my nozzle and then doing the 100mm measurement test I could get it really accurate, then put the nozzle back on and double check, it saves wasting sooo much fillamenby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Anyne know if this might work with a sanguino board? Here A lot of things are not available in NZ so we have to make doby NelsonRap - Sanguino(lolu)
I don't think it makes much difference, so long as everything is equal, true and parallel. I got really anal when I built mine to make sure it was perfectby NelsonRap - Reprappers
I'm moving towns in a couple of months. Each will be 400Km apartby NelsonRap - General
Looks interesting might have to give it a go once I get up and running againby NelsonRap - Reprappers
You would need to create a cool file similar to your start end files, not sure sfact stores them as I still us SF41by NelsonRap - General
The two 420mm ones need to be 400 for the V2 prusa. Here is my cutting list fro Prusa V2 kits I sell here in NZ Threaded rod 6 x 370 Triangle end frames 4 x 294 Front and rear lower bars 3 x 440 Top and underneath bars 2 x 210 Z axis bars 1 x 50 X idler 1 x 16 Extruder idler Smooth rod 2 x 400 X carriage (extruder) 2 x 406 Y axis (bed) 2 x 350 Z axis (up & down)by NelsonRap - Reprappers
I have my fan plugged into a spare 2 pin header and just leave it on to cool my nozzle, it just works and doesn't cause any problemsby NelsonRap - General
That is reasonable in my trade I don't work for less than $60by NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I make up the sanguino boards from scratch AND test them, I lengthen the wires on the motors, I make up the end stops, I make the heated beds from scratch, I clean up my printed parts and make sure the bolts go through the holes, I make sure the nuts go onto the threaded rod where I cut it, I wrote assembly instructions with pictures and videos (instructions are a PDF and have been hanby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have told all of my customers that they could do it themselves for half the amount and they still bought. I give them the option if they ask me and all of the kits I sold preferred for me to do the hard yakka for them, so I don't see what your problem is and just like any business I have a income to earn or are you one of these people that go to the shops and expect them to sell to you at costby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
dkedr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > At rediculous prices. > > Just looking at the rod set, I got my smooth rod > for around $10 and the threaded rod for > 20-30(can't remember) including shipping. So you > charge $60 to $70 for cutting/services. A little > too much in my opinion. > > Then there is the electronics, you have > Sangby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have T5 belt and matching aluminium T5 10 tooth pulleys to match on my website, as well as most other parts needed including smooth rod cut to lengthby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have made some kits available, but the one I have now will be my last as I'm looking for full time work again and possibly moving house/ town and simply won't hav the time anymore. My last kit is on Trademeby NelsonRap - General
In New Zealand I have sold about 40 sets of Prusa plastics. Prusa is the easiest kit as it's fairly simple most parts are available locally over the counter although not all. I have used PLA and my own machines are all PLA and so far have had no problems Have also sold about 8 full Prusa kits, only one has been back and that was because the client couldn't get printrun to work on WIndows Vistaby NelsonRap - General
I have printed at least 20 sets of Prusa parts on a heated bed with MDF sub bed no problems, I use 9mm MDFby NelsonRap - General
Wired1 came to see my setup today so he has a better understanding of the basic setup for both Prusa and original Mendelby NelsonRap - General
Why not ask Brian direct here since he makes themby NelsonRap - General
I use these here as they are good and don't have the thermal cut out that some do, the heated bed kills the ones with thermal cut out and they are a good price too. How to convert it here I don't have anything to do with the electronics though my step son does them for meby NelsonRap - General
are you using retract settings on the extruder? Possibly pots set too low for the Z motorsby NelsonRap - Reprappers
Haven't tried that but Viks normal PLA is of a very good qualityby NelsonRap - General
files sent, turns out wired1 lives near me tooby NelsonRap - General
PM me your email address and I can send you some instructions I made up for the kits I sell here in NZby NelsonRap - General
Enlightx Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > for people who print parts for prusa in PLA > > is it normal to HAVE to heat up the x carriage > lm8uu holders to get them in without breakage? > > just printed me a new x carriage and i had to heat > with a hair dryer to get them in which in turn was > a pain as the lm8uus were already on the prusby NelsonRap - General
Anyone have a local source for the SD card part for a sanguino board, looking at making one up to use on my own machine so that don't have to keep the computer runningby NelsonRap - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have a sells mendel completely in PLA and a V2 Prusa in complete PLA too te sells has been use to make over 50 sets of prusa's and is till going strong apart from my skipped steps issue which is not related to PLA, my prusa is only just coming on stream and so far is working well despite being all PLAby NelsonRap - General
NelsonRap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a new theory which I am going to test > later, I'm wondering if it happens when the > netbook reaches full charge and then the PSU > switches from charge to trickle It was better only moved 2 steps so the part is usable, guess I'm going to either look for a cheap desktop to use again or convert to a sanby NelsonRap - General