ah... plugging in any endstop in backwards shorts +5v to gnd This destroys the 5v voltage regulator on ramps board in particular What controller do you have? If its a ramps replace the mega (or if you can solder replace the voltage regulator on the mega)by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
never had an issue cooling pla for all layers.. Been printing on glass bed for years.by Dust - General
As you say ramps only has 3 mosfets and thus all standard RAMPS configurations will not work for you. you loose the last mosfet From googling this board you should set the motherboard type to MKS_BASE This defines the extra mosfet but is otherwise identical to ramps pin out wise. This set the configuration to EFBF or EFBE (ie is setup so E1 or Fan 1 commands can control this last mosfet)by Dust - General
this should be fixed in firmware.. but if you insist... G92 set positions so you need G28 X0 Y0 ;got to real homes G92 X-20 Y-10 ;tell printer your really at X -20 Y-10by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Other end of the planet (Literally) New Zealand You have access to a real mk2 frame? if you do can you document the position of those power supply mount holes. Everything else is same as the cad files I have (as far as I can tell so far) I've been looking at the power supply mount openscad, its ok, apart from being hard coded values.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
I cant say for sure that they are removing the arms... its certainly look like they are, damage around the holes etc.. They do have the model without arms (ie SS-3GPT with the L) I find those leds on the endstop confuses people, they think because the led is on its triggered... not always the case. And if you plug those in backwards you short +5v to gnd and generally kill the voltage reguby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
There is writing on the side and top.. but it very hard to read being very dotmatrix like... Top says OMRON Made in China Side says 3A125VAC 3A30VDC SS-3GL 13PT googling the last number shows which looks correct. But without the arm. Looking at the damage around the pivot points the arm was just ripped out with force I would like to find out where they get their gt2 belts.. they are gorgby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Ill have a look tonight. They look fairly standard from memory, just no metal leaverby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
I would try 1/4 micro stepping for your setup ie #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 396.5, 396.5, 45.1, 273 }by Dust - Reprappers
badly setup endstops? first command is normally to home the axis so the printer knows where it is. check you endstosp are where you have them configured and working (use M119 to test) secondly I notice #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 1586, 1596, 45.1, 273 } This is a very high number of steps for X and Y.. most people only have 80 ish. You not going to be able to go very fast using aby Dust - Reprappers
I suspect your going to have to trace it all out then... shouldn't be to hard, its quite modular. Only 100 pins, minus all the gnds and power. 1) trace the serial converter chip, which com port is it attached to. get basic serial working. (only 4 com ports, so even a simple sketch to open up all 4 serial ports and print a string "I am comp port X", and watch the arduino serial monitor for outpby Dust - Controllers
Wow, that is the weirdest board I have seen in a long time What did it come out of? Sorry no idea what it is, but you can clearly see it is a atmega of some sort (cant read the number) So In theory marlin could be made to run with the correct motherboard definition I would guess its ramps compatible.. but there is no way to tell if they have followed the standard pinout till you try it. (orby Dust - Controllers
I think this can be "almost" done with existing software and firmware You connect up what ever activates the solenoid to a spare IO pin via standard electronics (Google solenoid on arduino) Now you can manually control the solenoid with the G42 command In slic3r for eg you now set up two extruders and under custom gcode is the tool change gcode. you should be able to set this with the G42by Dust - Mechanics
Many things are needed for movement 12v on the 12v 5amp power input on the ramps is essential (not 5v, as many have accidentally done) Having some sort of working stepper driver modules plugged into the correct location on the ramps Setting the micro stepping jumpers on the ramps (under each stepper motor driver, 3 jumpers, all should be on) Setting the current limiting pot on the stepper driveby Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
When you short +5v to gnd you nearly always destroy the voltage regulator on your controller.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you actually read that ebay advert? its absolute gibberish! If it dies, you throw it out. for eg motherboard is custom. If you like a challenge you may be able to retrofit a more standard controller and get it working again. No thermistor details details are given, so if one dies or you just want to upgrade the firmware.. forget it. mechanics and linear look mostly normal... but unlby Dust - Reprappers
you have //#if ENABLED(RGB_LED) #define RGB_LED_R_PIN 34 #define RGB_LED_G_PIN 43 #define RGB_LED_B_PIN 35 #endif change first line to #if ENABLED(RGB_LED)by Dust - General
Your ahead of me... having just started this, I may have question for youby Dust - Reprappers
from the genuine prusa i3 mk1 to the genuine prusa i3 mk2 the rods are the same But the page you linked to on the wiki is not the genuine prusa i3 mk1, it is a predecessor to the mk1. FYI I suspect you will be interested in my current projectby Dust - Reprappers
There are many I3's you are comparing a gen 1 (for lack of a better name) to a Mk2 which is about a gen3. In this case look at the Y-axis-corners, the old Y-axis-corners are square and the bearing stops moving on the linear rails when they hit the edge of thecorner. The new Y-axis-corners the top is recessed and the bearing can keep moving into half the length of the Y-axis-corners. So the rodby Dust - Reprappers
"shifting in Z direction" thats very odd Are you sure you have your axis right? left/right is X axis front/back is Y axis up/down is Z axis If it is Z, what sort of drive mechanism does you machine have on Z? most this would be a drive screw of some sort.by Dust - Printing
I think you may be a little confused Just because the bed its up the top does not make it max, it is very much still min endstops. All movement is relative to the hotend. The bed should move up when Z is decreased (distance between hotend and bed decreases) and the bed should move down when Z in increased. (distance from hotend and bed increases) This is opposite to what is intuitive. The posiby Dust - Reprappers
The mosfet controls the negative line. The 11amp polyfuse is on the +ve side. You can bypass the fuse for testing if you want. Just wire the bed +ve directly to the power supply instead of the +ve d8 pin The negative still goes via the mosfet so if it is still working it will still be software controlled. (NB don't leave it without a fuse, that's a bad idea!) NB mosfets are static sensitiveby Dust - Reprappers
This may help you out Orriginal Prusa I3 MK2 upgrate to full printer BOM, is a work in progress Will be updated as I build each section.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
look at pronsole.py, part of printrun/pronterfaceby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
two heated beds is not a supported option Also if your using a ramps you cant plug in the 2nd bed in anywhere, only D8 has enough current for a directly connected heated bed. You would need a separate little board to add in another mosfet designed for the 11amp, and supply that board with 12v 11amps something like Your power supply also needs 11amps for 1st bed and 11amps for second bed +by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
what material are you tiring to print and to what surface and temperatures ? First layer issues are very common as there are a number of causes, non level bed only being one of them. Since a test cube to curls up in the corners at the bottom im going to guess ABS ?by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
Im sticking with rambo mini as I want the X/Y correction stuff (only in prusa mk2 firmware) and I already have plastic case for it MK42 is only 250x210 printable area I'm trying to remain as acurate to teh mk2 as I can (without going over board, like no need to have black threaded rods or nuts)by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm looking at converting the MK2 upgrade kit to a full printer. I have the upgrade kit. I have home made 6mm alu frames from the I3 version 1ish days. The frame are slightly different.. (no mounting holes for power supply), not sure of dimensions etc yet. was starting with the Y axis and then there was going to be more questions.. But if I wait a little Tom may answer most question I have.by Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
"you migth also help me with a nother issue, is that the fan on hot-end is off the first two layer, is there som where with in the marlin FW something that control that" no, that is a slicer setting. Slic3r or cura, or what ever your using.by Dust - Firmware - Marlin