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Hi all,
I have just build a printer with a Trianglelab Cyclops. I did not find much information about how to setup the tool changes. Finally, after some digging I found that by just adding the cyclops measurements on the "Single extruder MM setup" on Prusa Slicer (see attached screenshot), I was able to slice and print my first piece. The slicer did all for me. Good.
However, I am interested in
by
Hauser
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General
Hi all,
I have an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, or better said, I used to have since I have done so many upgrades.
The next step I want to pursue is to upgrade the rod, carriage and effector for a magnetic set I found on effector for a magnetic set I found on Aliexpress
The problm is that I have no clue, nor did I found any reference on which length to buy. The offered lengths are 180, 240 and
by
Hauser
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General
Thanks for your response, @Bill Clark
I've never had the eeprom activated on my firmwares. I don't like it at all and I rather prefer to upload the firmware again than to have to navigate through the LCD to see what my values are.
I've been able to use the 2208's in Legacy mode. That is, not soldering the pads, and installing them just like regular Pololus with the RAMPS MS jumpers. The current
by
Hauser
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General
Hi all,
I've just installed two TMC2208 drivers on my RAMPS board. I followed some very good step by step tutorial and I'm still not able to have it working.
What I did is as follows:
- Solder the pins on the driver. Original from Watterrot
- Solder the bridge pads for enabling UART communication
- Solder the pin for the communication heading uppwards
- Change the configuration_adv.h on Marlin
by
Hauser
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General
thanks a lot for your input and sorry for my delay.
I took into account all that you mentioned and I finally found the problem... which was much more simple that I was expecting. The problem is the offset. While the probe was measuring a given distance, the nozzle was somewhere else a little higher... (falcepalm)
So, what I get from this experience is that bed leveling is useful, but within som
by
Hauser
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General
Hi all,
Today I did something I wanted to do for a long time and that is, check whether or not my auto bed leveling works ok. I wanted to do that because during printing I never noticed the Z-axis moving. I'm aware that that could be because of the bed being already well leveled, I just wanted to make sure everything was ok.
I purposely tilted the mirror I use as printing platform adding two M3
by
Hauser
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General
QuoteDust
or if you want it really simple
I think that's the one which looks the same as the one I posted... many thanks!
by
Hauser
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General
Quoteetfrench
I'd recommend getting Kicad and layout the board. Three drivers with motor, logic, and power connectors plus a capacitor for each driver should take about 5 minutes to create.
Yeah, that was my intention exactly.
Thank all for your inputs!
by
Hauser
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General
Hi all,
I have a controller board with stepper drivers build in for my prusa clone. However, as I am not fully satisfied with the performance (motors are extremely noisy, especially the Z axis), I want to use some external drivers. The board makes available 4 pins for it, so it should not be a problem. However, I am in need of some carrier boards for these drivers, something such as this:
I
by
Hauser
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General
Hi all,
I'm nearly finishing tuning up Prusa i3 I had collecting dust over for a while. I installed a part cooling fan and printed a Benchy ship to test it out. I'm really impressed how much the quality of the print improved, specially when printing bridges. I heard about it, but man!
Here is the before (right) and after (left): Click here.
All on relative terms, of course. I had the printer co
by
Hauser
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Printing
Quotetiteuf007
mine working really well no problem at all
really tempting...
Thanks!
by
Hauser
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Smoothie
Thanks for your feedback!
What do mean when you say they don't obey the Open Source Terms? I'd love to buy the Smoothieboard, but I cannot afford the price tag right now, so that would be a nice alternative until I save up.
Regarding the Azteeg, can you set the stepper current on software or is it with a potentiometer?
by
Hauser
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Smoothie
Hi all,
Looking around I found this item on Aliexpress:
It appears to be some kind of Smoothieboard, from a third party manufacturer and at a fraction of the price...
Does somebody have any experience with it? The temptation is strong but it seems like the kind of case where you don't know what you'll get...
Any thoughts are welcome!
by
Hauser
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Smoothie
Hi all,
I've been off the grid for quite some time rgarding 3d printing and it's time to start again.
I'm looking for all I need to start from zero and I noticed that Pronterface hasn't been updated for more than 2 years now.
Is it still reliable? is there any good free alternative to print from the computer? I'm working with a Prusa i3 and OSX
Thanks a lot in advance,
by
Hauser
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Printrun/Pronterface
Hi again,
Thank you both for your responses. These are really interesting points which I didn't think about before. I'll have a look at the acceleration/jerk settings on the prints and give it a try again. I thought it was something I could modify in Slic3r, but I've just checked it and I didn't see the option...
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi all,
For the last 3 or 4 weeks I have been working on get my Prusa i3 on shape.
I have nearly disassembled it, cleaned it up and assembled it again, I've recalculated e-steps for the extruder and also extruder multiplier for the current filament I'm using (3mm PLA), I've optimized temperature and also surface adhesion.
Everything seems to be working again and I was very satisfied for the rela
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi all,
First of all, thanks for your responses. Sorry I haven't responded yet.
I don't use auto bed leveling. I just use springs on each of the four edges of the headbed. Using a metal gauge, I set it so that the 0.05 mm gauge passes between the gap but the 0.10 mm doesn't. The water spirit is used only to check that the whole setting is level.
What I've been doing yesterday and today is to p
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi all,
I haven't use my printer (Prusa i3) for some time. A couple of days ago a friend of mine asked me to print a case for his Raspberry. I checked the nozzle hight, and a couple of things more and I printed the parts. I noticed that the quality was really poor compared with what I used to print.
I wanted to calibrate and do some service to the printer. I calibrated the filament again (E-Ste
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi,
I'm having the same problem and I didn't want to spam the forum with a similar thread, so here it goes.
In my case I have the bed leveled and the nozzle is at max 0.1mm from the bed in all four corners of the bed and also in the middle. The printer is also leveled using a spirit level. The X-, Y- and Z- steps are well calculated on the Marvin firmware using the Prusa Calculator (http://prus
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Hauser
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
If you willing to sacrifice some filament, do a rule of 3 and scale the part to the right percentage, print just one thing and see how it comes out, if my math is not too rusted scale it to 103%. That should cover any hole difference and should not affect the rest of the part too much.
I'll try that and see how it goes, thanks. BTW what are the usual settings for printing the print
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Hauser
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Unfortunately most of the people opt for the heating fit than to find the right size of the holes through experimentation. Both ways are a pain, because you either have post print processes or need to keep on hand a table for right measuring (what I do) .
Slicers are still in infancy, all those bugs will be sorted out with time.
I hope so. The thing is that I only have the STL fil
by
Hauser
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
All the slicers have that problem, I use simplify3d and it have it too.
that's some useful info. I just wish everyone could take it into account. I will certanly do it if I ever design something worthy of beign shared.
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Hauser
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
To my knowledge it is an standard issue with the slicer, when I design my parts I account for that but on already made files you got two options: either heat up the nut and press it in or scale the part to correct size.
thanks, good to know I was doing it the rigth way. Do you know if it's an issue with all slicer software out there or it's Slic3r specific?? I was about to try Cura
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi all,
I'm trying to print extra parts for my Prusa i3 to have them as replacements. I'm having an issue which is quite annoying. The overall size of the part is quite what it's supposed to be +/- 0.1 - 0.2 mm. However all the inner holes and cavities are smaller thant they should. For example I've printed a x-carriage (30 mm) the cavities where the M3 nuts are supposed to fit are too small. No
by
Hauser
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Printing
Thank you both for your insigths. Bed level is a nigthmare on my setup, as I have to check it out before each print and sometimes I forget... I will address these issues, thanks!
by
Hauser
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Printing
Hi all,
My daugther asked me to print Elsa's tiara (Frozen) I found on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:244821). I calibrated my printer as good as I could: E-steps, Extruder multiplier (Slic3r), bed level, etc. The print (picture) looks good up to the point where this middle part which has an angle starts printing. What I find interesting is the fact that the triangles on the edges
by
Hauser
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Wow, for that much I can get a pack of 5. Have you checked Aliexpress?
yeah... "Estimated delivery time: between 15 and 34 days". Sometimes beign an european citizen just sucks.
by
Hauser
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General
Thanks you both. The printer and all its components are only 2 weeks old, so I guess I got a not-so-good one. I already ordered 3 new ones and they look just like those you showed me, however here in Germany they cost much more than in the States (6.45 Eur)...
by
Hauser
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General
Awesome answer, thanks a lot! Eventually I found a fan adapter on Thingivers whichs directs the airflow to both the extruder shaft and the printed surface.
by
Hauser
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General
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