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Hello, Two of my constant headaches with my reprap i3 are the y-belt and the heatbed. I fixed it, it works fine for a while, then the same problem re-surfaced after a few days of printing.
#1 is the bed heat plate. the plate doesn't seem to be completely flat. which makes adjusting the gap between the nozzle very difficult.
#2 is the Y belt skep after server print.
I stumbled on an item on eBay
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rich1812
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General
Hello, I don't know what it is, but when I press the print button on pronterface, most of the time it starts printing instantly, however, occasionally, when I press, there is no immediate response at all, sometimes it takes up to 10 minutes for it to starting, sometimes it doesn't at all. Before I print I make certain that the bed and extruder meet the target temperture and the gcode is fully loa
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rich1812
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Hello, for the longest time, I stick with Slic3r to generate code, which worked fine. Recently I try to use Cura, but the printer won't start any more. I wonder why it is? I ue Prusa i3 and marlin framework.
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rich1812
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General
The filament isn't expensive in the U.S. either. about $12.00 USD. It is the waste that bothers me, very bad for the environment. I know they made recycle machine, but that is a bit too pricy, cost more than the printer!
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rich1812
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General
Hello, over time I had accumulated few boxes of bad prints. It seems too much of a waste to throw them out but they are useless. If there is a way to melt them down I can probably make a full roll of filament or two. I have no idea what to do with them. How do you guys handle bad prints? Thanks.
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rich1812
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General
There are a lot of "accidents" can be easily prevented. Human are human, no matter how careful one is. human errors happen. How much is a keyed connector costs vs a non-keyed connector? Probabaly no more then 25 cent U.S. As a consumer, I rather spend 25-cents more than have to buy a $10.00 board if it is fried, not to mention the time lost on waiting to get a new one. That's certainly "good" bus
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rich1812
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Thans for the reply.
Sounds complicated. I read about measuring the height etc. I was hoping for a easier way out. I am lazy. I guess there isn't a easier "magic". I will give Duet electronics a try.
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rich1812
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General
Thanks for the replies.It works after printing for about abhor, the D2 fan kicks in!
yes, it is indeed M106. At least on my Marlin.
BTW, the tempture graph on the pronterface, UI there are 3 curves, hotted. bed and fan, what does the fan curve for? is it only for display only, since I don't see any button to set the on and off for the fan. Thanks
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rich1812
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Hello, I was printing a fairly large object. I went out for a short while, when I came back the printer had stopped for about 3 minutes. I don't know how or if I can re-start the print from where it stopped, so I had to re-print the whole thing from the beginning. What a waste of material and time.
For future reference, how do I do that? (re-start from where it left off.) I think someone in the
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rich1812
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hello, in over two years I use the purse i3, I never have the need to use a fan for the RAMP board and the Mega board, so I never pay much attention to it. Now that I am re-wiring from scratch, for completeness sack, I hooked a 12 V fan directly blows at the boards. When I turned the printer on, the fan doesn't do anything. I am wondering under what condition the fan will come on, when the boards
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rich1812
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They do care. I mistakenly plugged in the Extruder motor the wrong way. In the pronterface UI, the extrude button and reverse button were reversed. Also another dumb mistake I made was because the poor lighting in my room, I couldn't see well, I plugged in 3 pins from the motor connecter instead of 4. Thankfully nothing was burned out. All these human errors seem to be easily averted by using k
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rich1812
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In the process to fix and re-wire the purse i3, I replaced the RAMP board and all 4 motor drives. One small but important thing about the board annoys me the most. On the sockets that the motor goes in, it has a 4-wire connector. and the socket has 4 male pins to receive them, but why the sockets are not keyed? This is a connection mistake that can be easily avoided if the sockets are keyed. Is
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rich1812
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Hello, I have a purse i3. it was working just fine for the past 3 years. Recently one of the 4 mother drivers burned out. I ordered a set for all motors. Since than I keep getting temperature shut don in the middle of printing. I remember there is a way to adjust the pots on the drive circuit for x, y, z and extruder. But I forget what the proper voltages are. Is the the reason why the temperatur
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rich1812
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Hello, long time ago my Prausa i3 had the same problem, I forgot how I fixed it. The problem is that my printer will starts printing, all in a sudden it just stops completely, I checked all the wirings, nothing visually seem wrong. What else could have caused this? Thanks.
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rich1812
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Hello, I tweaked the UI of pronterface to fit a 3.5" LCD display nicely on a pi3, now I want to make a nice case for it. I was going to design one but on this link ., it already has a nice looking one designed and I downloaded all the necessary .stls.
My question is, how to make the surfaces so smooth like you can see in their pictures? Do they use PLA or ABS? What kind of post printing process i
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rich1812
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Hello, my prusa i3 is acting wired again. Some time during printing in the temperature graph, the line indicate the extruder fan jumps way up, then the machine stops. Before this happens, I could smell a bit out rubber over heated like a burning tire smell. But I could found nothing on fire, What could have caused this and how to fix it and how to recovery from it? Thanks.
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rich1812
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Hummm, not sure why, But thank for trying. I dug into the source code. did some modifications in the code. I is almost done and it looks just what I need. :}
The only thing remain is the Extrude/Reverse buttons and the length text field on the bottom left. I still try to figure out how to move them to the center so that they will be more symmetrical .
A nice crash course on python.
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rich1812
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Hello, I switched to a Raspberry Pi for my pronterface. This pi has a 3.5" LCD. I hack the source code to make the ui look nicely on the 3.5" LCD. My last problem is that the Extrude. Reverse and length elements, they are way below on the bottom left side, unless I move the window up, even then they are not semmetrical in the entire UI. It looks like as in the attached pronterfaceUI2.png: ideally
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rich1812
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Printrun/Pronterface
Hello, I switched to a Raspberry Pi for my pronterface. This pi has a 3.5" LCD. I hack the source code to make the ui look nicely on the 3.5" LCD. My last problem are that the Extrude. Reverse and length elements, they are way below unless I move the window up, even then they are not semmetrical in the entire UI. Look like this, ideally I would like it looks like this: . I realize this is more a
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rich1812
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I found out why the extruder making the click click noise. It is at the entry point of the filament to the hotted barrel, the filament is not able to enter the talon tube in the barrel, so it got stuck, it missed by 0.2 mm or so. Is the Teflon absolute necessary?
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rich1812
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Printing
O yes. do you get it from this forum? the one from this forumis valid.
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rich1812
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"I can post you the basic software"
I'd like that. Could you please? Thank you.
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rich1812
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Wow, fancy! Are you gonna publish it? Mine is going a lot simpler I will call it VDX lite :p. I just want to have the basic elements. just 3 up/down arrows for X,Y and Z, 4 fields in the heat and bed etc. no graphic is needed.since the LCD is so small.
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rich1812
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Thank you all for the replies.
O mine. This is going to be a lot more involve then I thought.
@VDX Would you mind telling how you fixed the hot spots? Also I am thinking if I take out the graphical memes, leave all the controls as text fields and selects, would that still work?
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rich1812
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Quoteobelisk79
Sounds like a calibration issue.
If I had to guess, you either have not properly set your nozzle height in relation to the print surface or your extruder steps are set too high in your printer configuration.
Edit: Is this a new problem, or have you always had this issue with your i3?
Thank you for the reply.
It is not a new problem. Most of the time the extruder motor works nic
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rich1812
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I am wondering, the extruder motor on my Reprap i3 sometimes after prints a few layers, the start making clicking noise, Further investigation, I found out the the filament goes reversed for a few moments, as if it is trying to extrude but gose reverse instead. A search on line people say the the extruder motor is being being over-driven. What does it really mean by over-driven? Does it mean the
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rich1812
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hi dust. thank you for the reply. I changed the values of winsize to 480x320, reload the program, doesn't make any differece. How about the other ui elements, don't they need to be shrink accordingly as well? Also does the program need to be re-compile?
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rich1812
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Hello, it's been a while I use my 3Dprinter. I remember my print out of a flat 3mm rectangle came out pretty smooth. Now I did the same print, the side agenst the bed is very smooth, but the side facing upward is very ugly and rough, I tried to adjust the bed temperture, doesn't help. What other factor could contribute to this? Thanks.
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rich1812
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Printing
Hello, I switch to a pi3 , use pronterface (linux) for my 3D printer, this pi3 has a 3.5" 320x480 LCD display. When pronterface is loaded, only part of its window can be seen and some of the UI elements are unreachable. I have the pronterface source code from GitHub. Where do I start to shrink the app window? Thanks.
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rich1812
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Happy new year! Thank you everyone foe the replay. I am wondering if the Y acceleration in the firmware can contribute to this factor? (I use Marlin.) Also I noticed the the wheel, end, not the motor end, keeps wriggling back and forth when the printing the in fill, could this be a factor as well?
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rich1812
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General
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Pages: 12345