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Re: Kisslicer - crown gaps - 6 years ago

2 weeks later but maybe because your infill is set to 20% ??

by Ed would - Printing

Re: "Error: Printer halted. kill() called" comes up whenever I print - 6 years ago

Hi Check thermistors wiring and the temperatures displayed. A broken/ shorted wire or way off temperature values mid-print would cause Marlin to kill the print. Moving parts can cause intermittent faults in wiring that can be tricky to trace. Marlin will also kill the print if the temperatures weren't rising as expected, ie from a wiring fault to the heater or bed. There are settings to twea

by Ed would - Printing

Re: Ramps 1.4 motors connection - 7 years ago

Motor wiring should be ok if it moves +ve. Have a look at the endstops & config for them. It will only go +ve & not -ve if they are 'activated' It wont try to move below 0 position anyway.

by Ed would - RAMPS Electronics

Re: TMC2130 spreadCycle configuration - 7 years ago

Thanks. Good reference. Ed

by Ed would - Firmware - Marlin

Enable display of thermistor 2 value on single extruder RampsEFB - 7 years ago

As title. I'd like to use T02 input and just display its temperature value on a graphic display. I see it was raised in Marlin github as a feature request a while ago but seemed to go nowhere. I saw a fix for repetier; Any suggestions? Thanks.

by Ed would - Firmware - Marlin

Re: New Menu Item to Load / Unload Filament - 7 years ago

I did it with a Gcode file than runs from SD card; M109 S175 ; wait extruder temp reaches 175 for ABS G91 ; relative coords G1 E-20 F500 ; retract 20 slow f500= 8mm/s G1 E-800 F6000 ; retract 800 quickly f6000= 100mm/s M300 S300 P700 ; beeps M18 ; disable steppers to allow pull out G4 P10000 ; pause 10 secs M300 S800 P300 ; beeps G4 P300 ; pause 3rd secs M300 S800 P300 ; beeps G1 E770 F6000 ; fo

by Ed would - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Wades extruder - spring tension - 7 years ago

QuoteBanana_Luke 2.) Does it often happen that PTFE tubings are to narrow so filament stucks? Yes, seems so. I just bought some clear PTFE tube to replace my white-ish stuff on a bowden set-up. The ID is smaller to the point where filament is much stiffer to push.

by Ed would - Printing

Re: What's the best way to level bed to use the Kraken from E3D? - 7 years ago

The Krakens nozzles seem easy to adjust to one another as they have a smooth (unthreaded) heatbreak that slides into the cold end and clamps. My point wasn't about getting the correct first layer height it was that, if in a 20mm XY distance, the nozzle to bed height differs because an axis is out of square, that would need addressing before considering a Kraken.

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: Humidity? - 7 years ago

QuoteDark Alchemist . . . I do believe and that is the medium holding down the print. I use glue stick, hairspray, etc... and those are water soluble and in the summer it is basically sitting in water (that is in the air). My purple Elmer's glue stick never wants to dry... so I think that the glue is just letting go because it never attains a good bond to the glass thanks to all of the humidit

by Ed would - General

Re: Extruder Configurations and Preferences - 7 years ago

Just experience and FWIW. A lot of your questions are dependant on what size stepper motor is attached to the extruder. I use direct drive with basic single sided sprung (airtrippers bowden) extruder 5.5 kg/cm stepper. I just use ABS no problem. Blocked nozzle will strip filament not stall motor. Not seen any speed limit. The diameter of the filament drive gear/hob will act as gearing also. M

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: What's the best way to level bed to use the Kraken from E3D? - 7 years ago

What he ^ said The issue with 4 nozzles is no different to levelling a bed to 1 nozzle. You can level the Krakens 4 heads individually parallel to the bed but if the XYZ's aren't moving at 90 degrees to one another then it doesn't matter if its one nozzle or 10, your clearance to bed will vary across the build area. If using ABL to compensate for non square axis and the 20mm spacing between the

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: What's the best way to level bed to use the Kraken from E3D? - 7 years ago

Adjusting screws.

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: SD card/ Full graphic display puzzle - 7 years ago

Hi. Thanks for your thoughts. Just regular SDHC cards -Sandisk. One is class 10 which I partitioned from 8GB down to 2GB, works in both LCD's The other is a class 4 8GB which works in one but not the other. Both work in PC fine. Both GLCD's are cheap clones from different sources. When I bought the first, I assumed there was a 2GB limit (like my old digi camera) hence the partition. Stran

by Ed would - General

SD card/ Full graphic display puzzle - 7 years ago

Hi. I have two RRD full graphic displays with SD card reader. One of them will only see an SD card if it is formatted FAT32 at 2GB or less. The other can read an 8GB card no problem. Firmware settings are (should be) the same. Any suggestions? Thanks

by Ed would - General

Re: Exterior Perimiter Issue - 7 years ago

Just the overhang by the looks. The lower part seems alright. If slic3r allows, try printing the inner perimeter before the outer perimeter. Temperature as low as will extrude

by Ed would - Printing

Re: Where can I find info about the details of printer design - 7 years ago

Imagine squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. . . Slow is better, can draw quite accurately. Fast it starts to drag what you have just laid down, especially in corners A thin line is about the width of the nozzle, you can draw quite a thicker line - more toothpaste/ slower motion. Z - see above . . . sticky toothpaste than goes from gooey to solid quite quickly

by Ed would - Developers

Re: Smoke detector using endstop circuit. - 7 years ago

The 'kill button' of a graphic display connects a ground (negative) to pin 41. You could piggyback your normally open contact to it with the common to ground There is surely a way to reasign an endstop to it in firmware (but I don't know how)

by Ed would - General

Re: Double sided/passthrough bowden connector? - 7 years ago

I too just drill the base out myself . Watch out for swarf I have searched high and low for a specification for a fitting that allows the tube to pass through with no success. You're looking for a push fit male stud fitting or push fit straight union connector. Some allow the pipe through but most don't. Most common for hotends being 4mm tube (for 1.75 filament) to 1/8" BSPT thread. Metric thr

by Ed would - General

Re: G-Code Script - 7 years ago

I suppose your rear right is just front left upside down. You say; Line 608 #define X_MIN_POS -46 Which is 46mm to the right of the bed But I believe those positions are travel limits after homing. ie It should home to 0,0 where the switch is, and then be +46 mm if anything. I don't think it would ever go to -46mm position because you have; "define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis

by Ed would - Firmware - Marlin

Re: G-Code Script - 7 years ago

Coupla things. You don't need M140 & M190 M104 & M109 You just need M190 Stemp M109 Stemp and it will set the temp and wait for it. I would guess that the first G1 X106 Y75 Z0 in the script moves the head to bed centre, then the S3D 'Origin Offset 103x75x0' moves it another 103x75 along. Probably get rid of one or the other. I would think you would need a G28 home to endstops for the

by Ed would - Firmware - Marlin

Re: Can you suggest a better way to tighten belts? - 7 years ago

I take you point but I think they are fine. I only write from a position of personal experience. The springs do stretch when pulled hard. I don't have anything to measure the force required to deflect per distance so I can't give you any numbers to calculate but I 'feel' that for an average reprap type setup of Nema17/ GT2/ low mass, the spring rate would be enough to overcome the forces applie

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: Can you suggest a better way to tighten belts? - 7 years ago

At the risk of under-complicating things. . . The simple tensioner spring does a very good job of taking up slack and keeps a positive 'sprung' tension on the belt without needing a mechanically set position of motor/ pulley

by Ed would - Reprappers

Re: [WW] SALE! Replikeo shop closing - selling our stock CHEAP - 7 years ago

Hi. I don't seem to be able to buy anything from the website. Thanks.

by Ed would - For Sale

Re: ~1m of 3mm nylon in the uk? - 7 years ago

? 15m for little more than the price of a pint

by Ed would - Wanted

Re: Electronic Component Selection - 7 years ago

Spose so. I'll change my advice. If you are new to 3D printing you would be better to buy a cheap kit printer and have a play about with it to understand the process and the forces and the equipment. Set against the time, effort and price you will pay to design and build a usable 2 foot square printer/ milling machine the cost will be negligible.

by Ed would - General

Re: Electronic Component Selection - 7 years ago

Someone should tell you. Don't build a printer thinking you may later turn it into a CNC cutter. If anything do it the other way round but even that will be a compromise of a print head cobbled onto a sluggish overspec'd router frame. Large build volumes do not justify big motors. You're just moving the same thing over a bigger distance. Nema 17 and Nema 23 are meaningless words in terms of ho

by Ed would - General

Re: Horizontal Gaps in Print - 7 years ago

Lack of extrusion somehow. . . Is the drive hob slipping on the shaft or clogged. Can you see it turn and push filament reliably?

by Ed would - Printing

Re: Shift problem - sticky bearing? - 7 years ago

Such a straight print except for the big jumps would imply that Y axis mechanicals are in good order. I'd be thinking missed steps, electronics getting hot by the time it reaches that height, the shape of the print at that height - short Y moves Random - Is your Z sticky/ skipping at that height; Any sign of the nozzle hitting the print and causing the Y to skip a step?

by Ed would - Printing

Re: Holes at intersection of walls - 7 years ago

Sort of a workaround, maybe not what you're after . . . Model it with the lines in one direction only, at a thickness of your printed layer height 0.333 Then model the next layer at the same layer thickness with the lines at 90 degree to the first. Then copy the layers until you have the desired thickness overall. It will avoid lots of line start/stops at the intersections. In theory you will

by Ed would - Printing

Re: Came back to a printer that won't turn on - 7 years ago

Its dead and should be buried in the garden. Not really. Just what frank said - basic fault finding starting from the fuse in the PSU plug following the flow inwards. Sniff for smells & look for damage.

by Ed would - General