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Eh, no, not at all. There is a Weatstone bridge in the mounting bracket, which measures the minute bending of the bracket as the nose hits the bed.
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
Hi,
I saw the CR-6 bed probe and wanted one, so I made the setup:
Just an idea, feel free to copy it if you like it.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
Hi,
in an attempt to ban the last illegal software from my computer, I was told this Slic3r is very good and freeware. OK, let's get it done. I've copied most settings and parameters from my previous slicer and I can slice and print now. Two questions that have come up:
1) The Filament settings have their specific Custom G-codes, Start and End. Where are those positioned relative to the Start an
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HugoW
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Slic3r
Thanks for the input. There is a reason I built the large bed, I use it. I'll take the cheap rails plus effort option into consideration.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Thanks for all the input. I am seriously considering to use real good linear rails, not the cheap Chinese ones, but searching ebay doesn't ensure me the quality. I can buy them locally from a reputable dealer, but that would set me back hundreds of euro's. My printer is quite big (400 x 400 bed). I will look into the linked Maybe Cube, the SBR rails I am not a big fan of. Just personal prefferenc
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Thanks for all the input. In the same order:
All I want to improve for future wishes are a full metal heatbreak (actually I am looking at the bimetal ones), allowing me to print NyLon. The only reason to change the concept would be to make it more accurate and/or lighten the X-axle and head for the same reason. So far not real changes have been necessary.
I was hoping I missed some important de
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Hi,
thanks for posting all this. Would you recommend the PTFE block bearing on the Y axle for a real 3D printer (with a big heavy printer head on it) as well, or is it not accurate enough? I can imagine 3D printing requires more accuracy than this sand table, but it is a very elegant and quiet system.
Thanks,
Hugo
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Hi,
my home brew CoreXY machine has been used a lot since I first built it in august 2017. I changed a lot in electronics and I went to a bowden cable, removing the extruder from the carriage, I added bed heating, changed motors, but the mechanics remained the same. Now after a lot of kilos of PLA, the rods are rusted, the bearings are worn and squeeky, it is time to service the machine. Here it
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Thanks, but that is not the case with mine. It sometimes sees the SD card after booting, but it is becoming more often it doesn't. My Marlin 2.0 has the ability to boot the card, but if often just doesn't see it. Re-inserting a few times does make it work. And the card feels progressivly loser and the problem is increasing.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Controllers
Hi,
I run an MKS Sbase 1.3 board with a normal Reprap Full Graphic Smart Controller, and I print from the SD card. Now the SD card reader is worn out. I replaced the SD card but that is not the problem; the cards slide in and out very easily. And often I need to retry a lot of times before the card is read properly. So, simple solution would be to just replace the controller that includes the SD
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HugoW
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Controllers
Well, we have a winner:
Before:
After:
Changing a '2' (default) into '3' can make a serious difference, it seems!
On the different boards and firmwares; I agreed that there are better boards, better firmwares, etc. I agree recompiling after every change is not convenient. However, I am not much of a 3D printing buff. When I read what all you guys do, 3D printing is your hobby. To me, it is
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HugoW
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Printing
Hmmmm, unfortunately I cannot seem to find those values in Marlin, yet. I'll keep searching. I did notice something else. I looked at the minimum_stepper_pulse value, to raise it to '3'. It was set at '2', or at least I thought. But I never removed the '//' in front of that line of code, it was not active. So I just changed it to '3' and made it active. Ready for a test tomorrow.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Printing
Hmmm, made the test block Ohmarinus suggesties. I don't know why we didn't get 80 mm/s, probably because of low acceleration settings.
Result; darn straight. But also very few lines of code to transfer from the SD to the main board.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Printing
That is very true, although I am told my English is reasonable
I just fear buying something new will open a new can of worms. I was doing OK, slow but OK, on 12V RAMPS with A4988 drivers. The old set-up. Then I wanted more, so 24V, 32 bit, etc. And it was all down hill from there. Well, that is not true, I could print fantasticly nice and fast, but not long. Now I am back to long, but not fast
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HugoW
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Printing
@Dust; thanks, I'll try that.
@Ohmarinus; that is a nice option. I am looking at those drivers, though, TMC2208, I read 1,2 A max. I currently run 1,5A. Maybe that is not required if the rest of the system behaves well, but I don't know, yet. It might after I put the x-axle and printhead through the weight lost programme. I run Marlin 2.0 bugfix on PlatformIO, now, too, that is no problem.
BTW
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HugoW
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Printing
Yeah, I wish it would have been the answer, too. I have had so much trouble over the years with this MKS board. Hooking up other drivers to the MKS board would require making a secondary board, and I fear does not solve this issue. I searched and asked on various locations if I can print from the MKS onbard SD card, no ansers. To me, that is a 'no' answer.
I consider to just go back to RAMPS. Bu
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HugoW
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Printing
Thanks for the input. I think they should get hot, they lose 1,4V (0,7 over each) at 2 A, so somewhere 2,8W of energy must come out. And on such a small component, that is a lot. Meanwhile I printed the same part again, similar settings, generated by Cura 4.4 instead of Simplify3D. Less lean than the Simplify3D print, both printed from the SD card on the Smart Controller.
I am not sure I can run
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HugoW
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Printing
Well, a lot of testing done this weekend.
First of all, soldering in a pair of diodes per motor, X and Y. Result; same and I burned my fingers on the diodes. Those things get hot!
Second try, diodes out, two 8-diode TL Smoothers in. I bought them as I was ordering some filament anyway. Result: worse or the same, hard to tell. Those diodes get hot, too, but they have more surface area. I think ab
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HugoW
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Printing
Thanks. I had to google VFAs, but I understand. I checked the Marlin firmware I currently run; minimum_stepper_pulse is set at '2', which I presume are microseconds. Makerguides lists the minimum value of the DRV8825 at 1,9uS, so that should be OK. I'll give the diodes a shot, shouldn't hurt and I can remove them again if required.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Printing
Wow, guys, thanks. That seems like somthing to try. I understand about 50% of what Mr. Schrodinger Z writes. Can I stick to his 12% voltage? I have a 24V powersource. The motors are 42BYGHM809, rated at 2.77V I read here. 12% of 24V is 2,88V. Close but over by 0,1V. As I understand, I will lose voltage over the diodes, so adding the diodes should help. I have a bag of 50 (minus 1 or 2 I used alre
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HugoW
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Printing
Thanks for all the input.
I will do many test as you suggest, but I just thought of someting else. If one or both linear bearings on the x-axle is failing, it can have a high resistance in one direction and way less in the other. That would show up as this problem, the system losing steps moving to the left and not to the right. I'll loosen the belts tonight and check. I can easily half the micr
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HugoW
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Printing
Bugger… This morning I started part three of my boat build, parts one and two came out really well on the slow speed / acceleration numbers. Here are all parts:
Unfortunately, even on these slow settings, the third part came out leaning again:
It was printed without bottom layer, no infill, just a wall of three layers thick. Weird, the lean is back and with a vengeance, as you can see. Th
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HugoW
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Printing
Hi,
Sorry for the late reply. I think the machine is mechanically sound, you can see it here:
The belts are all running as they should, straight and parallel to the direction of travel. And as said, printing a nice round tube works perfectly. I have meanwhile reduced printing speed and traveling speed to 40 mm/s and the acceleration is at 1000 mm/s2 now. The prints come out a lot better. But a
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HugoW
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Printing
Hi,
I have built a CoreXY printer and it prints fairly well. I mostly print small parts. Now I try to print something bigger and something strange occours. I did a series of tests today.
Test 1) I printed a tube, 60 mm outer diameter, 56 mm inner diameter. I printed a piece of 100 mm high. It is printed perfect, you can hold a carpenter's square between the bed and the print from any position a
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HugoW
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Printing
I set the serial port to -1, default was 0. Compiled with no problems, printer now connects. Now I need to manually adjust the PID values until the bed actually heats high enough for the autotune to work... It now doesn't go over 40 degrees, so I think I need to raise the P value considerably for it even to work. But, we have communication.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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Printrun/Pronterface
Hi, I am trying that in another topic. I run an MKS SBase 1.3, with a normal smart controller, not the touch screen from MKS which proved to be the big problem in my set-up. This now works well for about two years, I just added a heated bed and need to run the PID autotune.
It runs over port COM3, USB connection, and the baud rate of both the Marlin software and the Pronterface settings is 11520
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HugoW
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Firmware - Marlin
Great, good for you. No such luck here. I just cannot connect. Bummer. Ideas welcome!
I just found this, I will give that a go soon.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Printrun/Pronterface
Thanks, I just downloaded Repetier after it being recommended on Fakebook. Now my kids are asleep and I cannot try it on the printer, but I will tomorrow.
I also found a youtube clip (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpWCKNagjuI) and this guy needs to hit reset while pronterface is connecting, otherwise it does not work. I will give that a shot, too, or maybe you can try it before I can and repor
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HugoW
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Printrun/Pronterface
Hi,
I cannot seem to get Pronterface working and I need to autotune my new heated bed. It is my first heated bed on a custom built machine so no standard settings known. Can I write a simple gcode to autotune and have it run from the SD card? I have a reprap smart controller and I print gcodes from the SD. I think I should just write:
M303 E-1 S70 C10
M500
This should in my view run ten cycles
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HugoW
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
I run Marlin 2.0 (32bit) on my MKS SBase controller and all is working fine. Now I need to autotune the bed PID as I just fitted a heated bed, so I installed Pronterface. I connected the controller to the lapttop via USB, the laptop tells me it found a USB Marlin device so there is certainly some communication going on, otherwise the laptop wouldn't have known it's Marlin. But when I open Pr
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HugoW
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Printrun/Pronterface
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