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AFAIK, there is no thermostatic fan control in Marlin. You could always get the source code and add it in.
by
stephenrc
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RAMPS Electronics
Make sure you kill the power to the driver before shorting the coils or you'll damage the driver.
by
stephenrc
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CoreXY Machines
Putting it the freezer can help.
by
stephenrc
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Printing
Filament will ooze out of the nozzle when hot, especially with a bowden setup.
by
stephenrc
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Reprappers
At 100w @ 200vac, this is definitely over powered:
by
stephenrc
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General
I have mine wired into the same ac input of the dc power supply, with a ground wire to the al bed. I use a fused IEC socket for the ac power, like this one: . A thermal fuse attached to the bottom of the heater, inline with one of the power leads to the heater. If anything fails on, the thermal fuse will kill the power to the bed heater and the fuse has to be replaced.
by
stephenrc
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Safety & Best Practices
Quoteo_lampe
There is not much room under the drivers because of the jumpers and capacitors.
I would think a thin aluminum strip would fit between, but could cause shortcuts...
Get wire wrap headers or arduino headers and use them as "spacers" to get the needed room underneath the drivers to fit a heatsink.
by
stephenrc
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RAMPS Electronics
You didn't check the wiki:
by
stephenrc
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Reprappers
There are none.
A true emergency stop kills all power to the printer. Since usually when you use one is to save someone or holy crap! it's on fire! situation.
by
stephenrc
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Duet
I use specific printer_named settings for each printer under the Printer Settings and if they have different filaments, then they get printer_name saved Filament Settings. The Print Setting gets saved settings for different layers & fills and whether or not support is used.
by
stephenrc
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Slic3r
That's the mounting method described at
by
stephenrc
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Duet
See
It's set in config.g or a macro you call and it looks something like this:
G31 P500 X0 Y12 Z1.9
P is the trigger level
X & Y is the offset to the nozzle
Z is the z offset needed to put the nozzle at z0, since the ir sensor is above the nozzle.
by
stephenrc
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Duet
Quoteo_lampe
Quotestephenrc
I connected the fan cooling the drivers off the same fan connector as the hotend cooling fan. So, no fan is running unless the hotend is hot.
Aren't you afraid of overheating the drivers while you wait for the bed to heat up? Or do you heat up both simultaneously?
None of the motors are on until the homing starts and I use M84 in the ending code to turn them off aft
by
stephenrc
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Duet
No, not everything can communication at 250000 bps without errors, but using a lower speed can fix it.
by
stephenrc
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Reprappers
If you're printing over usb, lower the bits per second speed you're connected at.
by
stephenrc
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Reprappers
I connected the fan cooling the drivers off the same fan connector as the hotend cooling fan. So, no fan is running unless the hotend is hot.
by
stephenrc
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Duet
Sound like you don't have a T0 at the start of the print gcode. You need to make sure the correct tool is selected at start of the print, put a T0 in the slicer startup gcode section. Also, if you add a cancel.g file in sys, you can add things you want done when canceling.
by
stephenrc
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Duet
Here's the kit I use for the connectors:
by
stephenrc
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General
That's what ABS does, especially when the room temp drops. You'll have to enclose the printer to be able to successfully print with ABS.
by
stephenrc
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Printing
In RCBugFix:
// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/m) between probes
#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000
or it could be these lines:
// Homing speeds (mm/m)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (4*60)
by
stephenrc
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Firmware - Marlin
Gap fill is broken in 1.29, it overfills. Set the gap fill speed to 0 to turn it off. It's fixed in 1.30-dev.
by
stephenrc
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Slic3r
The fan should have a label on it, on the side the wires go into it. Otherwise see where it connects to and use a multimeter. Not all printers are the same for the fan voltage, for two of mine it's 24vdc, the other is 12vdc.
by
stephenrc
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Huxley
It's easier to use a 12vdc relay board. Have the sensor trigger the relay and use the relay's switched output on the endstop pins.
by
stephenrc
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Printing
Replace the 644 with a 1284.
by
stephenrc
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Developers
I believe that's somewhere in the wish list at
by
stephenrc
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Duet
Use one of these relay modules and you won't have to worry about getting the correct resisters:
Wire the sensor to the +12(brown and +12vdc), GND(blue and 12vdc ground) and IN(black), and the relay side for the endstop connection. I used the COM and NC to the z-probe connection. Then the jumper can be used to invert the switch without editing the firmware.
by
stephenrc
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General
Quotejotus
Hey
i get my e3d v6 from aliexpress i got today, and then i installed it to my prusa i3 and shall test it it not coming any PLA? if i press with my hands hard it comes lite for a while but after that its not coming any more.
Most likely the heat break isn't smooth and may have a gap between it and the nozzle, so the filament jams.
by
stephenrc
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Printing
To use bang-bang, all you need to do is comment out #define PIDTEMPBED, no other editing is needed.
by
stephenrc
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Firmware - Marlin