I was confusing this with extrusion multiplier, sorry. I'll give it a tryby luismanson - Printing
@Dancer, its on 20%, i don't know if i should decrease this, since the problem only manifest near borders where every fill line ends. I was able to perform just a single test, but reducing speed did improve a lot the final quality, there are still room for improvement.by luismanson - Printing
thanks MechaBits/imqqmi I'll try all this and report back. Thanksby luismanson - Printing
Latest Marlin stable, with drv8825 in RAMPSby luismanson - Printing
Hello, i have this issue which i never was able to readuce 100%, its like near the end of an inflill line, it pushes a bit of excess material to a side from the previous line, reducing extrusion multiplier does not seem to be the right fix, since it also causes small gaps between infill lines. Im using a 0.5mm nozzle, near 70mm/s top speed, slicing with simplify3dby luismanson - Printing
Hello, I have an i3 rework, recently i got a mk8 clone because i wanted to get rid of the Wade's and move to direct drive, however finding a carriage which suits my needs was not easy, my hotend is an e3d clone. I printed an Anet A8 carriage, which i modified to have the hot end reack the plate (the height was not enough). This is what i have in place now, but I'm not confortable with it since iby luismanson - Prusa i3 and variants
Yo me encargue este: www.thingiverse.com/thing:512338by luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
falwty99, thanks for the explanation, case closed on that one, I did a test about the seccond issie, my solution was to also define that pin as a servo, laser is OFF at startup. Since i still have ground via D9, i do not know, if there is a small pulse on arduino startup, I'll conect 12v directly to be sure and in any case go with your solution resistor between signal and ground. should it be 1 oby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
what software can I look into? i saw laserweb and some inkscape pluginsby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Ray, i think i will use D9 for 12v, and D6 for PWM t the TTL, that way a have two control forms *security I still have to figure how and why D6 is at 255 on startup^(laser at full power on arduino start, WTF is going on with D44, Arduino doc says its PWM, and then a software electionby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
ok... who knows D44 does NOT work...however D6 does, but the laser start ON at power onby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
well..laser on/off no PWM ¬¬ <=254 off / 255 = on, full power. I guess i need some way (firmware?) to turn it on/off a few times per seccondby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
well...to be honest. i dont get it. I guess the electronics of this laser works diferently. I have +12v from D9. (for this example, lets assume its ON) now, TTL from driver are: white + / blue - when i plug them in D5 laser goes ON. there is no way to turn it off, but this can be a marlin think, because i use a servo. while i do have only one. it might be playing with those pins Now...D42 workby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
I've looking for the same kind of answers: even same module whats have you accomplished?by luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
thanks =)by luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks falwty99, thats the info i needed. VDX, that looks interesting, can you elaborate on this setup? I guess wiring is simple, 12V directly, TTL to step. but what settings do you use in firmware (marlin?) and in g-code generator toolby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello, this is the laser and driver module: Im using RAMPs with Marlin. The item says: QuoteTTL signal input 0~5V input.(0V OFF/5V ON)(TTL Modulation control the output beam OFF / ON ) (TTL Modulation: Make sure input TTL level PWM dightal signal) Frequency for TTL control:0-20KHz; Duty cycle:input 1%-100%; Thanks cosmicray, i had found those modules, but since im from another country the "reby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Downunder35m, do you know where so I put 12v rail directly. but where do u wire TTL? (i think its rated 5v max) the schematic in the marlin mod you use its for another module (laser fire and laser pwm) I only have TTL will check FW laterby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello, Prusa i3 owner here, just got a chinese 2w laser module w/ driver As of now, I have it wired as as the layer fan (D9) and using M106 SXXX/ M107 to PWM it Is this the best way? the driver has a TTL input which i did not connect. I saw a few post that mention high speed on/off to control power Also, what Linux tools do i have? im using inkscape with a gcode plugin which does not look likeby luismanson - Laser Cutter Working Group
Quoterepetier Other users with that problem choosed to downgrade the kernel to previous version. That was on a ubuntu version where 1.3.13-46 came as an update, so this was possible. that was the solution, thanks!by luismanson - Repetier
thanks, was goign to report the same, also linux mint, updated to latest mono mono -V Mono JIT compiler version 4.0.3 (Stable 4.0.3.20/d6946b4 Tue Aug 4 09:43:57 UTC 2015) Copyright (C) 2002-2014 Novell, Inc, Xamarin Inc and Contributors. www.mono-project.com TLS: __thread SIGSEGV: altstack Notifications: epoll Architecture: amd64 Disabled: none Misc: softdeby luismanson - Repetier
Con cura es mucho mas facil!!! yo he mejorado un poco esa cuestion del soporte en sli3er pero cura le pasa el trapo definitivamente!by luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
Hola Para nivelar la cama, debes en teoria dejar el nozzle en cero, y poder deslizar una hoja de papel entre esta y la cama en toda la superficie de la misma, yo personalmente solia probar varios puntos casi aleatorios (extremos y centro seguro) Sera que esta curva porque usar la fijacion por 4 tornillos? puede que la estes obligando vos a que se flexione un poco por la fuerza de los tornillos quby luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
to be honest, i finally moved to another FW which does not present this issue long time agoby luismanson - Repetier
siby luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
En parte si, el otro dia reduje un poco los pasos y ni bien imprimio se me dio por medir y era mas grande la pieza, casi me muero, esperé que se enfrie y estaba OK. asique hay contraccion y bastante, pero no deberia en este caso tener todas las medidas diferentes en casi la misma cantidad?by luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
Hola, tengo un problemita loco, las medidas interiores (no solo de circulos) me quedan chicas. Estube recalibrando con piezas grandes, para filtrar mas cualquier error de precision (si lo grande sale preciso, lo chico deberia salir mejor, no? ) el caso es que en 100mm estoy en unos .2 de error como mucho. Me decido a imprimir una carcasa para el celu, como prueba imprimo solo las paredes de lasby luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
Yo estoy poniendome al dia con la mia y haciendo retoques... zumergido, que hiciste mas exactamente?by luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
no creo que tengas problemas, pero no, no tengo experiencia practica con ABS+calor Segun wikipedia en por las propiedades q tiene vas a estar bien hasta los 80 grados, mas o menosby luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina
Se debe referir a esto: Estoy de acuerdo con que revises q no haya corrientes de aire en la zona de impresion mientras imprimas y no uses ventilador salvo necesidad Si usas Cura, tiene la opcion de crear una "pared" que encierra la pieza dentro con el skirtby luismanson - RepRap Usergroup - Argentina