Thanks Ax!!!by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Doesn't the board have the correct wiring marked on it? Look for a "+ - s", "s" is for signal, brown is "+" blue "-". If the sensor state is opposite of what the software expects you many need to reverse this in the software.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Blue = common Brown = positive Black = signalby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
10000W-AC-220V-SCR-Digital-Voltage-Regulator-Speed-Control-Dimmer So, the question can one of one of these be easily controlled by a motherboard. Say for example an MKS.. (I have a Base 1,2 and an SBase 1,2 on hand) I'm working on a simple down cut hotwire and plan on using a printer board to handle the controls side. If one of the motherboard's outputs could interface with the SCR controller rby gotswrv - General
Not sure while the levels got turned up here.. We can all just click the next link and move on (this rule does not apply to ax as he has been far to helpful to too many). Seriously though, why get wound up, read it, use it or discard it. I've found the migbot to do a fine job if speed turned down to a creep and replace most of the parts. Loctite or nyloc everything, and spend tons of time tweakiby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I was able to kill my MK8 (all metal) heat creep doing the following. (1) insulate hot end.. wrap it in insulation, then kapton that very well. make sure the tape is smooth on print side or you'll pickup filament. this will require you to calibrate the PID again, or at least you definitely should. (2) force cooling fan through drive system. got to be creative with the kapton here. carefullyby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Could be a bearing binding or perhaps the shafts slipping. Give the bearings a light oil or replace, check the couplings for correct installment.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
The surface has been great for adhesion. Look back a little, not more than a few pages I posted with links. Found that the PiBot sensor works well with pei-glass, light weight too.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to heat the bed, level the bed while hot, and while still hot drive to the desired home position (including z zero) and press set home positions. Sounds like you may be pressing the one that finds home rather than teaches. This will not work if the home Z in your FW is above the taught Z. Anymore I'll just fix the FW position rather than mess with the LCD settings. Too easy to not justby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Hoping someone else can jump in. I'm pretty tied up with holiday stuff to have fun.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you storing the home position? With some versions of firmware you can do this at the machine. Other firmware a require you to put the z offset in and reflash the board.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
The bed has two different ways it can be wired. Markings for this are screen printed on the bed. To switch to 24v on the bed you are meant to rewire at the bed to a higher ohm circuit. His comment was that even though the wattage therefore stays the same the bed will still warm faster. Meaning the effective wattage increases due to the efficiency gains higher voltages and more headroom on the PSby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
First thing would be to decide if you are staying aluminum bed or going glassby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I switched out to these when I went 24vby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll bite! ordered one just now Does it come with info to put into marlin? Hoping to get at least sensor specs if not a starting PID values. If a 24v version is available I'd like that instead. If not I might get crazy and try a lessened max PWM, see if I don't need to order a replacement. Thanks for pushing the printing world along for us!!by gotswrv - General
Swap the bed heater and sensor with one of the other machines.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I got my kit with the "upgrade" MK8 extruder, all metal. Would a hobbed gear be an improvement over the brass spur gear? The brass has already rounded so I ordered a hobbed gear made of stainless. Just unsure if moving away from the spur was a good idea. Cannot see how it could be less effective, but someone here is likely to have real info and experience. I was disappointed to not find any ofby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Still having great luck with the 24v setup. I've got my bed wired for 12V feeding it 24v with the max PWM setting at 165. If you have not upgraded your PS and bed wiring you NEED to do so!! This is even more true on 12V, do it now, do not wait. I like 14ga silicon. With the setting at 165 the bed does heat up a little slower than the hot end, but not by much. All my wires are cool to the touch nby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Not to say a tungsten tip wouldn't have merit, but I have issue with some of the claims made. For instance saying that the stainless gets soft. Stainless (304) anneals at around 1000C. Or that higher thermal conductivity is paramount. If so why not aluminum with a pvd coating? Anyway, I don't see myself printing carbon or peek much.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Can anyone share a slic3r ABS config file with me?by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Uberjay, Change out the wires as mentioned. Another thing I've found troublesome is if a fan is is blowing on the hot end. I now have the extruder fan taped up to keep any leakage from getting to the hot end. I couldn't feel the airflow, never would have guessed it was trouble. Ended up accidentally having that fan off once and noticed my temp was rock solid all of the sudden. No more run alwayby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you guy keep the feeder on the X carriage or remote feed with the v6? Also wanting to know if a G10 frame is really an upgrade? Tired of the frame coming loose and loosing shape.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteWes78 Quotegotswrv @Wes78, Thanks for that! but that place is dangerous... Ended up deciding to swap out everything to 24v. Fill me in please, dangerous how? I haven't had a problem one with them or there stuff Think he means dangerous to his wallet.. Exactly! Went there to spend $5 left $50 lighter... Good share!by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTaisiya hello, Yes, I saw this depository, but shouldn't there be an images instructions? Did you receive a separate instructions sent with the Kit? May I ask if you could email me photos/ scans of you instructions and wiring pics please? my email is mag8891@gmail.com many thanks. pics here one of the links iby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
@Wes78, Thanks for that! but that place is dangerous... Ended up deciding to swap out everything to 24v.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Does anyone know where to get a quality heating element for the extruder? Ohh, I'm in the US. Having a lot of issues getting it tuned in. Autotune returns wildly different values from day to day. When everything looks good I cannot make it through a print without a thermal fault. Seems like spending a few extra dollars on the element might be worth the hassle saved.by gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I got no instructions with my kit. Once I had labored through the assembly the seller sent an email with a link to the instructions. I did offer a negative reply concerning the lack of that same link being on the items sale page description or instructions being included. They seemed quite polite in responding, but the message was they don't really care, too bad for me.. Seems like buying open soby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
I was bouncing around with repetier cura and slic3r.. Keep thinking about getting octoprint or fastbot or simplfly, or... I just don't know enough to make a good decision. Really be pissed if I spend big bucks and end up liking slic3r more. Such a strange and wonderful time this is, opensource is certainly going to be a turning point in history. Guess I should just donate to slic3r and ask them tby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants
Copied right outta slic3r M140 S112 ; set bed temperature doesnt wait M104 S240 ; set extrude temperature doesnt wait G91 G1 Z10 F400 G90 G28 X0 Y0 ; home axes G28 Z0 G1 Z20 F1600 G1 X50 Y50 F3000 M190 S112; set and wait bed temperature M104 S242 ;doesnt wait extruder G1 Z 1 F800 M109 S242 ; set and wait for extruder temperature to be reached My XY position was 110,110 to verify centeriby gotswrv - Prusa i3 and variants