Hi Robert, Thanks for the advice! I gave it a try and it didn't work. All the axis were reversed. Oddly enough after I reverted the direction back to what I had it before, it started moving in the correct direction. I didn't change anything other than the Invert values. Awesome, that's one problem solved. Now, I'm running into another issue. The Z probe offset is not working. After I home zby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been struggling with this for a few days and just can't figure it out. I had a really old build of Marlin V1 from 2014 and I wanted to replace the problematic servo probe with an inductive probe. Printer worked fine before the upgrade besides the inconsistent servo probe. I added the (blue tip lj12a3-4-z/bx) inductive switch with a voltage divider and m119 shows it triggering as expected. Iby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I think it's from too much heat. If it weren't for the auto bed level. It would have taken me a lot longer to get usable prints. So i'm circling back around now and trying to get the machine mechanically leveled first.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I originally used springs but did not like how the bed didn't stay leveled. I bumped the bed once by accident and I to re-level it. I ended up using standoffs for a solid mount. My CF plate is pretty much useless now. It's really warped now. I'm going to experiment with an aluminum heatbed to see if I can get this damn thing leveled. I'm also hoping to get the E3d hotend installed soon. Life gotby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegadget_greg As with everyone else, bed leveling is a bitch. I have the slightest hump in the middle of the heat bed which seems to be exacerbated by the carbon fiber plate. Also, I must have missed something in the config file because my extruder will not respond to commands from the LCD-controller. I swapped motors and stepkicks around and still nothing; all parts are functioning properlby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Tech2C, that's interesting about using the PID for the heatbed. I might have to give that a try and see if it fixes my random alignment issues.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Man... that sucks about all the shipping damage that's occurring. Although it seems like with the new packaging, things are getting better. Still almost seems like a roll of the dice, because it's going through china post. Roll the dice and that's how many times it will be ran over by a truck before it gets to you.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRSA27 I just got the kit and everything looks ok so far. I got the new packaging and it doesn't appear that anything was damaged. I will try to put up pics in the next couple of days. I have a question for those who have the kit : How did you attach the x end stop? The endstop supposedly attaches to the x idler using 2 screws - but they appear to get in the way of the plug - how did youby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
It's just a standard 12v 30A relay that has a 12v trigger. I connected the solenoid up to D8 to trigger it. The Heatbed shouldn't draw that much. 10-15amps depending on the resistance of the heatbed.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I fixed my shorted out heatbed issue. It ended up being the through hole plating for both positive and negative are connected to the large copper layer. I just took a utility knife and cut the traces. Bed now reads 1.0ohms. However, I'm still getting uneven heating in the bed. One side of the bed is a good 10C lower than the other half. The side that's lower happens to be connected through the rby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
jprochnow, Sorry to hear about your damaged package. I'm honestly surprised mine made it with such little damage, considering the box arrived pretty crushed. It sounds like yours was literally ran over by truck. Replikeo sent my replacement parts out right away. It took roughly 2 and half weeks to get them. However in your case, it sounds like you can't even start assembling it.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
yeah.. I'm getting a dead short on the pads. 0.1ohms. I'm also running the heatbed directly to the power supply through a relay, since the PTC always trips when the heatbed is wired directly to the ramps board.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the E3D V5 hotend. I didn't know a v6 was going to be released, I would've waited for it. I haven't even installed the hotend yet, since I'm still trying to get the heatbed issues sorted out to print in ABS. I also inspected the carbon plate replikeo sent me. It's completely warped. It's visually twisted. So far, it seems keeping the bed level has been a real challenge for me. Maybe theby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Is your HOB bolt tight and not slipping? I've only had to vary the E step from 640-670 depending on the filament I'm using.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Hrmmm.... I'm going to test that theory out too. I'm using a clone reprap discount full graphics controller. but i've been mainly printing from the usb port. Also, I'm using Marlin for the firmware with some autobed level code changes to show more info during probing.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I never thought about the bull dog clips causing the pair to warp. I noticed my carbon plate is bowed now compared to when I initially installed it. I noticed this with the auto bed level feature. I can see a topography of the bed. I also never thought about the carriage acting as a heat sink. Duh... I'm getting some cork to isolate it from the stand offsby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah, I didn't use the included power cable either. I didn't like the idea of not having a ground in case the power supply cooks for some reason. I used a power supply cable and cut off the end.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the tip. Yeah, I'll give that a try. I had already adjusted all the drivers via a multimeter when I finished building it. Everything was fine until I added the relay for the print bed. I bet having the bed hooked up directly to the power supply is drawing too much current and could be causing a voltage drop to the drivers, hence missed steps and layer shifts.. I will say that printinby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAllnei My prints are not so good as they looks. I have many prints with shifted layers and other defects. I found one problem, if I turn on some hungry device (soldering iron, stove etc.) Y axis start shifting pretty hard. I just read this and think I may have found the answer to my random x alignment issue i've been having. on some prints, the layers would shift a few mm then finish fine fby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine went through LAX customs. Maybe NYC customs is a lot busier?by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
That really sucks. I order quite a bit overseas and that has always been my fear that it gets lost or stuck in customs. Hopefully it's not stuck in customs because the box is destroyed. Have you tried calling the post office? Hope they find it for you.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been printing with the carbon plate, and it's significantly flatter than the glass I got from matter hackers. There isn't nearly as much compensation happening during a print and first layer adhesion appears to be quite a bit better.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Not yet... I still haven't replaced the wires on the bed yet. I'm not sure if the PTC fuse on the ramps board can handle the current that the bed draws. Right now, I have the bed wired directly to a relay and using the the D8 pin to trigger the relay. This setup seems to work fine, just not as clean as i would like it.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I got my replacements and carbonfiber bed on saturday. I haven't tried printing on it yet. I'm still experiencing some first layer adhesion problems on certain prints, I'll give the carbonfiber plate a try. Can you clean the carbon fiber plate with acetone? Will it eat the epoxy?by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I ended up getting rid of the springs because the bed would shift during a print, I ended up using some m3 10mm stand offs I had laying around. I also installed the y belt holder with nuts on the top side of the bed.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree that the packaging needs to be better. I was surprised more parts weren't broken when I received my package. It looked like a truck ran over it. I'm still waiting for my replacement parts. China post can be real slow sometimes. Check over your m5 Z rods. Mine were pretty bent, I bent them back as good as I can. Still not happy totally with it. Need to pick up a stainless rod and some brasby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
lol... I did the same thing.... I was checking at least twice a day. Drove myself mad for a few days waiting for it to leave US customs. In my case, once it left customs, I got it in two days.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
I ordered a roll of ABS from the same place I get PLA from (Push Plastic) to test. The replikeo roll varied quite a bit over a meter or so. From 2.89 - 3.02mm. From the failed test print, it wasn't really black, more like gray. So I figure I try out a more "quality" roll. So far it has been difficult to print ABS on this machine. Mostly due to the Mosfets dying while trying to heat up the bed toby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
No worries... It all relates to the kit anyways. I'm just happy that I'm not talking to myself.by Trike - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegadget_greg Might be a good thing that I just ordered a bunch of little heat sinks... www.ebay.com/itm/111341703714 I like the black anodizing on those I ordered these when I got the printer. Should get them anytime. http://www.ebay.com/itm/300993674705 I plan on using some Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive that I have laying around to stick them on permanently. I'll have some spares nowby Trike - Prusa i3 and variants