Thanks for the input. Changes to the POT on the back of the E0 controller did not fix the problem. Way back when I first calibrated my machine I had to max out the Y axis POT to stop my prints from tilting, so I have had success with that tweak. No amount of swapping motor plugins changed anything or gave me any more clues than I have at present. I have made a decision to redo the Marlin sketby drgrs - Prusa i3 and variants
I've tested a motor swap between the extruder port, E01, and X, but I can try Z. I am thinking about changing my mind about this not being a software problem. Both my program file and backup produce the twitching, which seems to make a software, sketch fix unlikely, but impossible is a word I hesitate to use. I can't test the ports tonight, so I will let you know what happens with additional pby drgrs - Prusa i3 and variants
My Prusi i3 with RAMPS 1.4 has been working well for about 3 years. Suddenly my extruder stopped working and I came to find out that the extruder motor would not run forward or backwards. When called upon, the extruder motor just twitches, or you might say vibrates. I can't move the twitching shaft with my fingers. It seems to be locked up, maybe cycling very quickly between forward and reverby drgrs - Prusa i3 and variants
I also built a Prusa i3 about 3 years ago. I worked on print quality until I was out of ideas and finally came to the point where I think my machine was printing its best. These things helped with print quality, although not specifically with banding. Here are some ideas. 1. Mount your filament off-board. Mine is now mounted on a wall fixture that looks something like a paper towel rack.by drgrs - General
I just watched your You Tube video and added a similar response. First, it appears your print speed is much too fast. My prints would fail catastrophicly if I tried to print that fast. I have made a few prints that look like your video. I have a Prusa i3 and it has been a good work horse (until lately). I am in the process of diagnosing it at the moment, but when it was running for the lastby drgrs - General
I have had a similar problem, but worse. I tested my cable and there are no shorts. And I even wriggled the cable, per your suggestion. I have a RepRap Prusa i3 and I recently upgraded the extruder and hot end to E3d v6 and E3D Titan. All was going well when one day the extruder motor appeared to stop working. It actually did not stop completely, but began to twitch, turning neither forwardsby drgrs - General
First, don't give up! I built a Prusa Mendel i3 from scratch and spent an enormous amount of time in the process. Since then, 2 1/2 years ago, I have sunk more massive amounts of time into calibrating it, which never quite achieved what I was hoping for, and just recently upgraded the hot end and adding a heated bed (which I have not succeeded in getting turned on). Oh, and I found getting gooby drgrs - Prusa i3 and variants
New Heated Bed - No Power A couple of weeks ago I decided to upgrade my Prusa i3 printer which has been working rather well for two years. The first step in my upgrade was to install a Signswise 200x200mm 12v 150w Silicone Rubber Heated Bed, using a HICTOP 100K ohm NTC Thermistor. The physical installation went well. I tested the thermistor by attaching it to my multimeter which showed it haby drgrs - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the response. I am using Marlin 7 and Ramps 1.4. But, finally, I found a YouTube video that showed what I think my answer is: 3DPrintronics - Prusa i3 Build Tutorial : Part 11 - Calibrating the X, Y, Z axis Configuration.h Line 389 - #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,78.80,4000,760*1.1} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker I'm guessing that the settings will work fby drgrs - Mendel90
What I need to know is where the setting is, prior to compilation, to correct the accuracy of the X, Y, and Z axes. I just scoured the Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h files and could not find any settings for E Steps per mm for the axes. I found the setting for the extruder, (Configuration_adv.h, Line 330 - #define STEPS_MM_E 459.29), but I also need to make corrections for all axes. Aby drgrs - Mendel90
I bought an i3 Omega from the DIY TechShop and got it up and running just a short time ago. I made the Y and Z axis end stop holders for it out of wood during the build process. Of course, I wasn't in a position to print anything at that point. Both of the Y and Z end stop holders are clam shell design. I added a fan next to the Y axis motor. The X axis end stop can be directly attached to tby drgrs - Reprappers
After much fussing around with the potentiometers for all axis, yes, I seem to have gotten the Y axis drift solved. I greased my rods/linear bearings, just to make sure friction was at a minimum, and I also tested the friction by hand. I discovered that there is a serious friction/alignment problem on the mid to far right of my left axis, but I am not using that area of the print bed yet. I wilby drgrs - Repetier
Thank you for reminding me. Here is a picture of my DIY Tech Shop Omega build. The Omega has a 9x12x7 print bed. It is an i3 XL mod, and I'm not an expert on these different mods. I am very pleased with the way I was able to mount the filament. The support rods had extra length so I just slipped some 1/" steel over them. You have supported my plans for this afternoon - I am going to mess wiby drgrs - Repetier
Repetier, sounds like you know what you are talking about. As for me, almost all I know or think I know is based on the hours of research and reading I've done + the experience of building my printer and working through a series of first prints. I have attached a picture so you can see exactly what I am talking about. The partial print in the JPG image is supposed to be a simple 40mm tall squaby drgrs - Repetier
I'm using a Ramps 1.4. I spent the evening messing with the Y offset and I almost fooled myself into thinking that I was making progress when one print started out much better than the others. First I tightened the Y belt a bit and then started entering Y offsets from 0.3 to 500. I don't know what order of magnitude I should use for offsets, but I couldn't think of anything else, other than tiby drgrs - Repetier
My Y displacement is a stair-step, not a shift half way through the print. I just got my DIY Tech Shop Delta model up and running. I finished the build phase and am now in the calibration phase. I have printed 6 2cm calibration cubes without a hitch. And my first print was a smiley face coin. No problems. The only tweaks I have made are to set the nozzle diameter to 0.4, the filament sizeby drgrs - Repetier
Good news! I can retract my comment that DIY Tech Shop does not answer its phone. This morning I called them and the young lady who's voice we hear on their recording answered. She was very nice and helpful. They have all of their 3D printers working full time to print parts, and they have decided to go to ouside sources to keep up with their orders. Also, unfortunate personnel issues resultby drgrs - Reprappers
I ordered an i3 Omega from DIY Tech Shop on 2/6 and received it yesterday, on 2/21. That took almost exactly the two weeks their Web page said it would take. I also called them on the phone and left an email message from their Web page menu. It seems they don't answer the phone, but they responded very satisfactorily to my email message, although it took them a few days. Yes, I was worried abby drgrs - Reprappers