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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
QuoteBratan Thanks Blue Ice, that's interesting idea with spaces. I might do that, just need to find correct length. I'm printing with white ABS 1.75mm filament. I'm starting to think that J-Head that came with the kit is not meant for 1.75 filament. I'm attaching pictures of what "doubled up" filament looks like, I really wanted to know if that's normal. Also how do I disassemble this J-head tby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago
I had same problem with HB thermistor, try set another type in Config fileby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
I am printing on glass with hairspray. ABS is sticking well @110-115°C. Also cork insulation is must have under HB.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
In Enhanced G29 you can define number of probes, so you can do 5x5 matrix or more Btw remove that metal lever from microswitch for better measurementby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Blue_ice: I used some pc power cord that I had home, cut off end and wired it up. flywire: What you have is not Prusa i3 Rework, but vanila Prusa i3 with Greg's Wade extruder, but Prusa i3 rework that we have use Greg's Hinged Extruder. So it will be better if you look in this section of forum (since this section is about Prusa X printers) , but not in this topic, because we have different hardwby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
QuoteLittleMike Oh, and my y-belt holder keeps hitting into the motor. It's kind of hard to see in the picture This is because you are trying it without HB. Install HB and it will fix your problem QuoteKidAircrash Hey guys, I've run into some more trouble. I was just getting to the electronics and wiring stage and I realized that my x axis shouldn't be resting at the bottom. I'm probably overby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
QuoteBlue Ice QuoteRepelsteler Hi , Can anyone point me in a direction for auto bed levelling for the replikeo? Thanks Bert Never worked with a 3D printer before, but I've seen that this design is popular: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182889 And a video for installation is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awsI9bMndJA I might try it sometime, so I think it is a good idea. These liby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Be happy that they pop out. If they were holding better, hotend would break your HB and probably destroyed your nozzleby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
M5 can´t fall off X assembly. Weight of assembly is enough to hold them securely in place even if you lubricate them to be easily removed as "failsafe mechanism". As alvinhochun said, you probably have X assembly upside down, which is weird because here you have it mounted correctlyby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Reason why I have only 3 screws in X carriage is because my extrudes body is little warped and can´t be secured it with 4th screwby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
I am almost sure from photo, that zipties are backward My X carriageby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Problem is not in zip ties, problem is how do you use them You are tightening them backward, teeth are supposed to be facing inward in "ziptie loop"by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
LittleMike you probably used Y smooth rods as Z rods and vice versaby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
It is not stupid, if you heat HB (15-20min) in same time as HE (1-5min) then filament in HE will be destroyed due to high temperature for long time without extruding. For your problem with shift, try to to send more power to motors.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Don´t worry about 362mm between X motor and idler. You can´t do it bad, because Z smooth rods will not let you have more or less than 362mm + tolerance. Just try push X carriage with hand, if you feel force or friction it is not good, if you don´t then it is OK. About M5 nuts for Z-axis: I put them in slot with some lubricant. They are holding there good and it is fail-safe how to not break HBby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
QuoteBratan Guys two more question. First, I noticed when I printed my big gear, that every level shifts slightly to the right (in X direction). What could be causing this? Second, I've been having this annoying issue with Repetier since day 1. When I'm doing second print, it will stop heating up HotEnd. It says it's own, and I think even LED light is on but Hotend is cooling down. If I resetby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
QuoteBratan Guys I remember someone posted something about Bed Auto Leveling. I printed this one, it's completely wrong (hotend opening is way too small, screw holes in weird locations). Which one did you use for this printer? It was me, who talked about auto bed leveling. What you linked is mount for vanila i3, not Rework that we have. Use this mount and hot glue servo in it. I am not home, sby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
One of my new printsby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Quoteflyrobot I have Makibox (my first 3Dprinter), to reach 120 degree is only take less than 5 minute. Lucky person I had preorder for Makibox too, but I asked refund when they went silent. That is reason why i ordered from Replikeo.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
1-2 ohm is normal, if it is bellow 1ohm it is problem.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
If you dont want solder it and don´t want it in D9, then connect it as Electronics fan in power connector.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Yes Use this holder + some cheap servo Buy new or extend Z endstop microswitch and use guide from Also use auto bed leveling only with Marlin + try this [3dprintboard.com]by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
I have popping too, it is from air bubbles in filament. Today I printed case for my Raspberry PI and it came out pretty good. Right now I am in state, that printer prints what I want and only problem is little corner warping.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Cheap china filament (not just Replikeo) is lottery. You can have good results with it, or it can be disaster. Just try it with some standard quality filament. All my ABS (black, yellow, red) + lime green PLA are good and I am able print with them. Today I printed Owl statue at 0.1 and came out pretty good (photo probably tomorrow)by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Search this forum for HE leaking it is "common" problem.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Underthetire how thick is your first layer? My hobbed bolt start slipping due to bad bed leveling when first layer was like 0.05mm (in gcode it was 0.3mm)by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
I don´t know what you mean by "port for other applications", but Ramps can handle endstop for min/max on all axis so its 6 endstops. Marlin in default configuration is using default connectors on Ramps to check endstops, so if you set home to MIN, endstop must be connected to MIN port on that axis. Other Firmware called Repetier can be easily configurated to check Y min endstop for example on Zby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
Auto bed leveling can reduce calibrating to minimum Greg: If you need clean your HE, just clean filament that leaked from nozzle (from last print), heat HE to about 130°C and gently but fast pull out filament (by hand, so you must unscrew iddler). It will make *pop* and you will have nice and clean nozzle.by Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
When you change home direction, you must also reconnect endstop connector to right slot. On Ramps1.4 you have X-(min),X+ (max), Y- (min),Y+ (max), Z- (min),Z+ (max). When your motor is on back, you must set #define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 And connect endstops to X+ (max), Y- (min), Z- (min) #define INVERT_Y_DIR true Also connect motors with green wire closer tby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 11 years ago
@flyrobot: Welcome! Some advice for you: Buy glass and print on glass, PCB HB is not flat and Carbon plate from Replikeo is flexible, so bed leveling is pain. Almost everyone here had problem with mirrored prints. It is problem with Y axis (not X). Problem is, that Replikeo configuration is for printer with Y motor on back side, but original assembly instruction have motor on front side. From yoby Allnei - Prusa i3 and variants