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Re: Gaps in the infill // Extruderproblem // consistant - 5 years ago

Hi Emile, I received your message on Thingiverse. It seems you've tried many common steps to rectify your problem(s). I guess to begin we'll look at the crooked wall corners. First test, remove the belts and move the X_gantry by hand along the Y axis. It should move virtually frictionless on the Y axis rails using linear bearings. If ok, then try moving the X_gantry along the X axis rails. It c

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: Advice needed regarding Bowden extruder - 9 years ago

I use the same bowden system, albeit with a MK7 drive gear. I have as much tension as possible on the filament against the MK7 gear. 3mm/s is quite fast - that's 180mm/min. Try reducing your print speed. Also as has been mentioned, your temerature is probably dropping too quick while the filament is passing through it. Check what happens to the hotend temperature while your passing filament. If

by Tech2C - Reprappers

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quoteraphaelbruno3d It is being hard to find a tutorial equal, I'm following the oficial reprap.org, but I do not undertsood any parts... For example, this part... If I put only bearing on center, this is handily, is it this way? how do I solve it? If the illustrations on the reprap.org website aren't helpful, you can watch build video's on YouTube. Here's one that is very close to our kit H

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotetomleeds Hello guys, I just finished printing of calibration cube 20mm and 0.5mm thin wall. Thin-wall looks perfect but 20mm cube is very bad (see attachment). Start where print is creating of object border is well but second layer is printed out of borders. Printer is calibrated, when I press 100mm for X,Y axis in pronterface it will move only 100mm. Bed Level is also calibrated, I can pu

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Bowden vs Direct Feed Extruder? - 10 years ago

I can honestly say the Bowden feed extruder setup does produce better looking perimeters/layers over the direct feed setup. I just made the switch from direct to Bowden and yeah, major improvement. What I discovered is the Bowden provides a more consistent flow rate over the direct method, as the hobbed bolt is having to contend with a changing filament tension as it moves to and from the filame

by Tech2C - General

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegadget_greg That's the one! In other news... I'm thoroughly conviced at this point that Replikeo's ABS is CRAP! This is now the SECOND time it's gotten all clogged up and trying to take it apart I broke the hot end off the cold end. So now I'm looking for a new extruder and I'm seriously considering throwing away half a spool of their CRAP. VERY unhappy right now... So i'm not going

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Here they are gadget_greg I've noticed one of my z-axis stepper motors has a bend in the shaft. This is definately contributing to the banding issue. Not sure if it has been like that since purchase tho.

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Posted another video with progress updates YouTube Video Close to being really great, just have to sort out some z-axis banding appearing on the surface of fine prints. The video doesn't show the distortions that well but you get the idea. Here's a link to what others have done to correct it: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,148833,148836,quote=1

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Allnei, it turns out the intermittent extrusion failure was caused by not enough pressure by the extruder idler. This was with the screws tightened as far as they would allow. To fix this problem I had to grind away 10mm length from each screw to allow the spring tension to be even greater. Thanks for your help. gadget_greg, I remember reading on another forum topic you can wrap tape around the

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Hi Alleni, have you fixed your problem with the hobbed bolt not gripping the filament reliably? I'm having intermittent issues with the fillament not extruding for a few seconds even though the gears are spinning.

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quote Cool got it! So since my Y endstop is in the back, it will become MIN since it's touched when Y is at 0 right? I made a quick sketchup model (img attached) with my understanding of the Prusa i3 axes and coordinates. Is it correct? Brantan, correct - the Y-axis endstop is at the back of the Y-axis carriage so when the heatbed is homed, the Hotend nozzle is at Y coordinate 0 (the front of t

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Brantan, that photo I found on google images as it had the connector zoomed. I didn't edit it. Disregard the missing row of pins, just look at each set of pins from left to right as normal. The coordinate system is relative to the print surface viewed from above. From left to right is 0 to 200. Bottom to top is 0 to 200.

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Regarding the mirrored prints, Replikeo's configuration.h suggestions for endstop settings aren't entirely correct. Well, not for me anyways Link to their blog: Replikeo's Arduino Firmware Configuration Here's their setup: // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR 1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 Here's mine: // ENDSTOP SET

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Straight ABS print bows after cooldown - 10 years ago

Well here's another shot of a printed part that has bowed once cooled. This part was perfectly level while still hot/warm. In the photo the flat part is on the top where it was printed on the heatbed. It's upside down to show more clearly the severity of the bowing. Printing with ABS @ 235c, heatbed set to 110c. Could it be the cheap chinese ABS filament i'm using, or is this just a characteris

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: Straight ABS print bows after cooldown - 10 years ago

Hairspray (onto glass).

by Tech2C - Printing

Straight ABS print bows after cooldown - 10 years ago

Hi Guys, This might be a strange problem? I'm having an issue with finished printed long flat objects after they've cooled down. The centre of the part bows upward, or the ends of the part bows downwards (not sure which). Either way the result is a part that isn't flat once it's cooled (the heatbed is flat). The actual print adheres to the bed just fine through out the print process. The probl

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Rather than cut the screws shorter, just buy a pack of spring washers. They're dirt cheap, absorbs length, plus reduces the chance of the screws rattling lose overtime.

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I just checked Marlin and the LCD stuff is commented out by default. Goto line 496 in Configuration.h and uncomment your LCD type. I received some green ABS today. Very happy with the results. I tried the Octopus, reduced to 75% size. Quite good, just need to tweak sli3er so no gaps appear in a few places. The main wade gear has come up sensational! The more I print the more I'm hooked on this p

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Welcome to the party gadget_greg Finally sorted a problem with misaligned perimeters. Turns out it was temperature shifts from the heatbed causing the entire print to rise and fall relative to the hotend. Configuring the PID for the heatbed fixed that issue. So here are some happy prints, finally Still waiting for the LCD+SD from ebay...

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Random perimeter layer problems - 10 years ago

SORTED!!!! Yay Photo attached. Spot the crap cube... Ok, turns out it was the heatbed expanding/contracting as it was being powered on/off maintaining the set temperature. Expanding would make the entire print raise closer to the hotend causing the filament to squish outwards, while contracting would move the print further away reducing the width of the extrude and likely overlapping the prev

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: Random perimeter layer problems - 10 years ago

Thanks for replying tmorris9. The Filament Settings / Filament / Extrusion multiplier was already set to 1. The Print Settings / Advanced / Default Extrusion Width was set to 0.4 (same as nozzle diametre), but no change in layer alignment when set to 0. First layer is set to 200% which I haven't changed (unless you think it's important?). I've completed a couple test prints with the Extrusion

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: Stepper motor skips one or two steps - 10 years ago

Hi borupdk, did you fix your warping perimeters? I am experienceing a similar issue.

by Tech2C - Printing

Random perimeter layer problems - 10 years ago

Hi Guys, I've assembled and calibrated a new Prusa i3 Rework kit. I am having an issue with some perimeter layers not being layed down correctly. When the problem occurs, it appears to be depositing the perimeter layer just to close to the previous perimeter, causing it to raise. Not sure what to do from here. Printing using Pronterface and slic3r 1.0.1 (1.1.3 same problem) Nozzle diametre 0.4m

by Tech2C - Printing

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

jprochnow, that is a shocker. Looks like it's been used as a chair by a postal worker or something. The size of that gaping hole - is anything missing? gadget_greg, lets hope your box is not delayed because it's torn open and spewed its guts out all over the place Trike, my heatbed has uneven heating as well, by as much as 10C. You mentioned through hole plating? According to the RepRap PCB He

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Allnei, after changing the wires between supply->ramps, not only is the heatbed heating faster, I now see intermittent misalignments in the print. It's only out by a tiny fraction, but enough to cause a disfigured finish. I tried increasing/decreasing the stepper motor current, and also installed a second power supply to power everything other than the heatbed, but to no avail. I found anot

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotereplikeo Dear customers, We guarantee the replacement of any part that is not working at delivery. Regarding our packaging, in order to avoid problems during delivery, we are now using polystyrene box put inside a strong cardboard box, as you can see on the attached picture. You are welcome to get in touch with us if you have any remark or suggestion regarding our kit, or if you need repl

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Ok, E steps sorted. Recalibrated again but this time without the hotend attached - cold extrusion M302. Calibrated to 693. Much better result with prints now. I saw a Youtube tutorial where they measured the extrusion whilst the hotend was attached and heated to allow the filament to flow. This is how I'd done it, but I must have been extruding too fast or something causing it to jam intermittent

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Replacing the wires from supply->ramps has halved the heatbed heating time for 110 degrees. I had already replaced the ramps->heatbed wires. Removed the bull dog clips and taped down the carbon fibre with kapton has improved the bed leveling, but it's still not dead flat. With the calibration of the Filament rate (E axis), I had to change the "DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT" from the Replike

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteGiuss The iron frame seems not very stable, or I'm wrong? I've found it to be stable. I haven't seen it oscillate whilst printing so far. What is of concern is because it's anchored to the y carriage at the base only, it tends to want to lean forward as that is where all of the weight is distributed on the iron frame. I'm not sure if the thicker Aluminium or Plexiglass frames suffer the sam

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Great idea Allnei! I'll try that shortly. It also answers my next question of how to print on the full 200mm x 200mm carbon fibre surface when there's bullclips in the way - supurb!

by Tech2C - Prusa i3 and variants