Show all posts by user

Re: Does room temperature affect PLA printing? - 9 years ago

Quoteo_lampe When I printed PLA on glass, I had the same problem. I had to try it two or three times in the morning but then it worked like a charm all day long. Maybe we just have to let the temp sink into the bed and printhead? I started using lemon juice to degrease and sugarcoat the glass and it helped a lot. I then switched to blue painters tape and the problems were gone. -Olaf Thanks! I'

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Does room temperature affect PLA printing? - 9 years ago

I've been printing with PLA on heated bed covered by Kapton tape. It was printing great yesterday, when it was pretty chilly in my room (under 65F). Today it's 70F I can't get damn thing to print single thing without head dragging away first layer, it just doesn't stick... I re-leveled bed, using same settings as yesterday, nothing. Switched to ABS and it works fine. Does room temperature really

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: LED voltage for Heated Bed MK2B - 10 years ago

Thanks, I read that Wiki, just wasn't sure about voltage. BTW, my MK2B comes with holes as well as SMD pads, so thru the hole LEDs/Resistors can be used as well.

by Bratan - Reprappers

LED voltage for Heated Bed MK2B - 10 years ago

Quick question. I couldn't find specs for LEDs anywhere. I'm using 12V supply. Does it mean I need 12V LED? I know I need current limited resistor, but its value depends on LED specs...

by Bratan - Reprappers

Re: Afinia filament on Reprap - 10 years ago

One more question. Does higher temperature ABS printing also requires my Heatbed to be hotter? If that's the case, I certainly don't want to use this filament...

by Bratan - General

Re: Afinia filament on Reprap - 10 years ago

Quoteggherbaz Their premium filament might have some additives that require higher temperatures (most likely nylon) I have some "high quality " ABS that I can only print from 245 and up, anything under and won't print right, you should be able to print at lower than 260, but don't know if at 225. Ah I see, thanks for the info! I'm trying to upgrade to E3D v6 hotend hopefully it'll be able to h

by Bratan - General

Afinia filament on Reprap - 10 years ago

Scored some really cheap ABS filament (made for Afinia H printers) from Radioshack store that went out of business. Now I'm reading specs and scratching my head. It says Extrusion temperature: 260-270° C That's pretty high, I normally print at 225C... Should I be able to print at lower temp, or I'm out of luck? I have prusa i3 rework btw with standard J-head (non-metal). Here's what I found on

by Bratan - General

Re: Small parts with eyelets won't print. - 10 years ago

Just a follow up. I can now confirm that slowdown/autocooling option in Slic3r really helps when printing small objects! I didn't have "Enable Auto Cooling" option checked, and I think that what's made huge difference. I think it enables other options on this page such as "Slow Down if layer print time is below". I set it to 5 seconds. Here's screenshot (attached).

by Bratan - Printing

Re: Small parts with eyelets won't print. - 10 years ago

QuoteOhmarinus Instead of using a fan, print two of the same models on one plate and put them a few cm's away from each other. This allows the layer to cool on the first part while it puts a layer on the second part. Only workaround I found useful for ABS. Don't print with a fan, warping is terrible with ABS. Yeah thats exactly what i did and it worked too, but took 2x more time to print

by Bratan - Printing

Re: Small parts with eyelets won't print. - 10 years ago

Thanks guys! It seems Slic3r does have similar issue, I found this on another forum "Filament Settings -> Cooling -> Slow down if layer print time is below: x seconds" It's misleading, as it seems to be about cooling fan, but from what I read it actually just slows down printing process. I'm gonna try it tomorrow.

by Bratan - Printing

Small parts with eyelets won't print. - 10 years ago

My Prusa i3 rework prints great larger parts, but it fails every time when it's thin tall part, especially if it has eyelet in it. I'm attaching such example (idler roller) and what it came out. Once it starts printing those thin columns print head just starts to push into material and move it sideways completely messing it up. I suspect it's speed issue in Slic3r, so I tried adjusting some para

by Bratan - Printing

Re: Why socket head screws are used so much in 3D printer projects? - 10 years ago

I bought this one eventually

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: Why socket head screws are used so much in 3D printer projects? - 10 years ago

Quoterhmorrison hex wrench? Get a proper tool allen head screwdriver set! Socket (allen) head screws are used because you do not need to apply pressure to turn the screw as you do with flat head or philips head screws. Ah I see Thanks I gotta get me a set

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Why socket head screws are used so much in 3D printer projects? - 10 years ago

I'm just curious, it seems everyone is using them... I tried replacing regular philips head screws with socket (a.k.a. allen) head screws, but it's just seems to be a pain to install them with hex wrench (almost impossible to do with one hand). What am I missing?

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

QuoteAno @Bratan: I have mounted a MK8 direct drive right now and even when the rest of my setup is far from great, the MK8 never failed. And that, after several people in this forum told me, that my MK8 version sucks XD (german thread: link) My hobbed bolt worked, too, but I wanted to try a direct drive one =) I'm gonna give it a try. I decided to skip this and go straight to bowden drive, and f

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Filament not extruding in bowden drive - 10 years ago

I've tried all suggestions, still no luck. I pretty sure it's something to do with the drive mechanism. It's just doesn't have enough power to push filament. It goes thru if I assist it with my hand, but nut on it's own. Gear just digs into filament. I'm giving up at this point. Going to switch to direct drive instead of bowden...

by Bratan - Reprappers

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

What do you guys think about using MK8 hobbed pulley instead of hobbed bolt? This completely eliminates all the gears from extruder! All you need is bearing pushing filment onto pulley. Of course this requires different design for extruder but I'm sure there are many on Thingiverse...

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: Filament not extruding in bowden drive - 10 years ago

Thanks guys, that's actually great idea. I will adjust stepper current and see if it helps. It was working fine with regular extruder, but I'm guessing bowden needs more power Yes I'm using RAMPS 1.4. I have extruder set to 145 steps/mm. I didn't find calibration instructions for this type of extruder, so I assumed if it's similar to direct drive. With 145 steps when I extrude 10mm, exactly 10mm

by Bratan - Reprappers

Re: Filament not extruding in bowden drive - 10 years ago

Quoteggherbaz From what I can see from the picture the length is fine, but you need to support the tube because those steep curves might cause problems, also a direct drive might be weak for your metal hotend. Thanks! I will try to add support and also tighten bearing so it pushes on filament harder. I know it worked for others with same hotened...

by Bratan - Reprappers

Filament not extruding in bowden drive - 10 years ago

I've tried converting my Prusa i3 rework from direct drive to bowden with e3d v6 hot end. I'm using this direct drive design and this e3d holder. When (1.75mm ABS) filament is not inserted in the HE, it's moved fine by MK8 pulley thru the tubing. But as soon as I insert into hot end, it stops moving. What am I doing wrong? Could be because my PTFE tube is too long or something else? I'm new to

by Bratan - Reprappers

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

I finally added LCD smart controller (have been printing from PC all this time). I'm a little confused tho, I get no power to the ATMegal when using just PSU. If connect USB everything works. RAMPS doesn't power ATMega?

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Just wanted to share this incredibly helpful video I found, that finally helped me solve my extrusion length issue. Previously no matter how many steps used I couldn't extrude exactly 100mm. That video above made process very clear. I calculated that I need to set extruder to 740 steps, and like magic it extruded exactly 100mm!!! It seems I've been printing by underextruding all these months..

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: How to upgrade from direct drive to bowden extruder? - 10 years ago

QuoteAno The fan duct from the original E3D V6 Hotend. Or do you mean the other one in front of the fan? This would be this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547325 But as there is none on the original E3D design, I don't think you need it. I got my HE from eBay it didn't come with the duct Didn't know it was supposed to. I'm guessing this one should work:

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: How to upgrade from direct drive to bowden extruder? - 10 years ago

Sorry one more question. What kind of fan duct can be used for this? I just realized its not included in things list

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: How to upgrade from direct drive to bowden extruder? - 10 years ago

QuoteAno What I really like about that setup is the simplicity. In comparison with a wade geared extruder it's just sooo small Yeah totally BTW, following "bread crumbs" found this improved model of the drive:

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: How to upgrade from direct drive to bowden extruder? - 10 years ago

QuoteAno I will try the same thing in near future and am planning on: - This carraige: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:547706 - And this extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275593 In the first thing, you can also see a video of the whole change. Wow, thanks a lot! That video is also amazing, I think I now understand why I have issues at specific heights...

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

How to upgrade from direct drive to bowden extruder? - 10 years ago

Hi! I'm looking for a guide on how to upgrade my i3 Rework from direct drive to bowden extruder. I already bought 1.75 E3D V6 hotend with bowden addon. Now I'm guessing I need to print out X-carriage holder for E3D hotend (perhaps something like this), and then actual drive mechanism that will attach to the frame. What parts will I need? - 3D printed parts? - Can I reuse my existing stepper fro

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Why use those chemicals when you can just easily apply Elmer's blue glue stick? I swear by that stuff, ABS sticks to like crazy when hot and releases when cold... Plus it let's me print at just 90-95C . Never had lift off issues. That's probably the only issues I didn't have, everything else is not so good but that's another story I just reapply more glue after each print. Eventually I just take

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants

At some height printing starts to shift - 10 years ago

I have Prusa i3 Rework (kit from Replikeo). I've been trying to print Wade Small Gear, and this strange problem appeared that ruined every gear print. At specific height parts of the print begin to shift in what looks like Z and Y axes. It happens in exactly same spot on every print. I'm guessing it's physical problem, but I have no idea where it might be. So I would like some help... I'm attach

by Bratan - General Mendel Topics

Re: My Replikeo Prusa i3 Rework Build - 10 years ago

Quotegforce1 Z-axis: set max feedrate on 2 (standard 5). X-axis:Your endstop is on the right side, so this is the max.endstop. is it connected on the max position of your (ramps)board? Wow, that's genius! I forgot there are different physical connections, I bet it's connected to wrong header! Thank you so much, I'll check tonight!

by Bratan - Prusa i3 and variants