A few minor things. - Cheap Enclosure - Replaced extruder with Dual MK8 extruders. - Added 12v strip lights to the frame for better bed lighting. - For awhile I was using this spool holder I made with this filament guide. - Modified the bearing holders to this version. I will soon be replacing the entire y carriage with an aluminum version I have on order. - Replaced all of the PLA parts in theby czmorris - Reprappers
Newtoprinting, As someone else mentioned your print temps are high for PLA. Personally I never go any higher than 210 for PLA and that is rare. Usually 180 or 190 for me. As far the barrel liner goes I had something similar happen to mine awhile ago and it never worked properly for me again until I replaced the barrel. (Yours might be fine but in my case it would not). I would recommend loweringby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNewtoprinting Can someone help please. My pla has been getting caught between the heat block and the filament drive. It would print fine for 10 minutes and then building up between heat block and fan/ filament drive. It might help if you take a picture of you setup or if the problem is visible the problem itself. Is it the standard unmodified Folger extruder? Also post your basic print settby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
DMAN120 That is an awesome enclosure. Very clean looking. Great job! I am curious. Are you using the original PLA parts that came from Folger? If so how long have you been using them in an enclosure? I used a box over my machine for awhile when I was doing a bunch of ABS prints on it and the PLA parts that were under any tension expanded and became unusable. (It was about 50c in the "enclosure"by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Amazon link for Extruders. The extruders are attached to each other. I was worried about the left extruder drooping down too much but the leveled out pretty well. For now it works until I have time to make a new mount.by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteczmorris Quotemikez104 That's cool czmorris!. Can you show a pic of how you have that all mounted? My printer is doing well but i'd like to go with dual extruders also but am not sure how to go about that. I've had very little problems with mine since I swapped the bed out with the aluminum one. Hell, I only tweeked the bed height once since I installed it. I use to have to set it almosby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemikez104 That's cool czmorris!. Can you show a pic of how you have that all mounted? My printer is doing well but i'd like to go with dual extruders also but am not sure how to go about that. I've had very little problems with mine since I swapped the bed out with the aluminum one. Hell, I only tweeked the bed height once since I installed it. I use to have to set it almost every print.by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
It has been some time since my last post here. A recent upgrade to my Folger i3 is dual extruders. Still tweaking some things but so far I am happy. The image below is from the first try printing the standard cone. You can see some oozing and stringing in the video as I was still playing with temp and retraction settings. Short clip of printingby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAKFoddy7 Quoteczmorris FYI, something to keep an eye on if you are running using a box or enclosure over your printer with the standard PLA printed parts. PLA parts changing size/expanding. I had been running a series of batches for about a week before leaving town for the weekend. I had been using a large cardboard box with a window cut in it and some clear plastic to cover the window. I hby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
FYI, something to keep an eye on if you are running using a box or enclosure over your printer with the standard PLA printed parts. PLA parts changing size/expanding. I had been running a series of batches for about a week before leaving town for the weekend. I had been using a large cardboard box with a window cut in it and some clear plastic to cover the window. I had been getting great printsby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWpflum I normally print from the SD. I'm trying to remember if one of the previous prints that failed was from the usb, I'm not sure if I had any but the last one was SD based. I don't have anything on the smooth rod to lubricate, I kinda assumed that since I was using a ball bearinged slide that I didn't need any, would dry graphite work? I have some from a number of years doing pinewoodby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Wpflum. Are you printing from SD or USB when your failures occur? I typically print from SD but I do recall seeing a similar jump back when I was using repetier host over USB if the PC got bogged down. Almost like it skipped a few lines of gcode. That only happened a few times though. Was not curious enough to try to track down the issue with a sniffer or anything at the time. Have you used aby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWpflum Ok, this is becoming annoying, I'm using repetier host to see if the issues I'm having might be related to cura and I had the same X carriage skip I've been having whenever I try to do a large area print. I had thought originally it was because I didn't have the belt tight enough but after I took it apart again and worked on it a bit I was able to get is, what I think, a very tight bby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAKFoddy7 How do you find it with PLA? I haven't heard of too many good reviews of the all metal hot ends with PLA> By the way, for those of you printing with ABS, how bad is the smell? I haven't had any issues with PLA so far on this machine. Handles it far better than my UP mini. I don't really notice the ABS smell much though I am still planning on putting together an enclosure in oby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejjbunn Quoteczmorris Before I saw your last post I modified the bearing mount during my lunch hour for the half cylinder idea I was talking about. Added the update as another file on Thingiverse. I will do a test print just to confirm the model when I get home. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513656 I printed one of these off, and it looks good: capped Y bearing holder. There are no framby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
"I sent them the .stl for that, so they should have what they need if they choose to include it, saves drilling a hole" Awesome, that was one of the things I had on my list. Easy fix but useful. I am thinking about trying to do something with the Z-axis nuts as well when I get a chance. A few folks have complained about that and someone suggested modding them to prevent it from moving. I am curby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWaltermixx "Thanks waltermixx. I was thinking about moving those in a bit more. I am not sure that it is necessary but it couldn't hurt. One of the things I was going for is to remove the need to drill the bed acrylic." you are absolutely right Mr. Morris, i was just being lazy I think anyone building the kit who has access to a printer before hand would do well to print your version of thby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks waltermixx. I was thinking about moving those in a bit more. I am not sure that it is necessary but it couldn't hurt. One of the things I was going for is to remove the need to drill the bed acrylic. Sure it is a simple task to do but it also adds another place someone might make a mistake. I suppose if it helps someone out it is worth it. One less tool needed. One of the things I like abby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Before I saw your last post I modified the bearing mount during my lunch hour for the half cylinder idea I was talking about. Added the update as another file on Thingiverse. I will do a test print just to confirm the model when I get home. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:513656by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejjbunn Quoteczmorris Quotejjbunn Quoteczmorris Second mod to the bearing holder. When I got a chance to look at it closely it looked like there would be clearance issues. I Modified it to work with zip ties instead as suggested. Instead of making it such that the ties have to go through the bed I added a channel in the back of the part that connects to the bed for the tip tie to rest in. I hby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejjbunn Quoteczmorris Second mod to the bearing holder. When I got a chance to look at it closely it looked like there would be clearance issues. I Modified it to work with zip ties instead as suggested. Instead of making it such that the ties have to go through the bed I added a channel in the back of the part that connects to the bed for the tip tie to rest in. I have no plans to change minby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNukedWorker Quotezorg1179 QuoteNukedWorker I've finally got my Y and Z moving, but when the X motor picks up (i.e. if I hit the home button) the motor vibrates like anything without moving the carriage anywhere, and then, just before it stops, it moves back and forth about 1/2 cm each direction, without having any results. Until I hit "motors off" the motor is still tight. I started usingby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Haven't posted in a bit seems there are several newcomers. Awesome. Curious. Has anyone used this kit with one of the 3d printing streaming systems such as Authentise?by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
I have only had an issue with it the once and that was self inflicted. I don't get the sense that it is a chronic issue. At least on my setup.by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejjbunn Quoteczmorris Here are a few shots of what I believe is that same 5mm stepped print on my machine. In this case printed in ABS. Pictures of Step Calibration Very nice indeed - wow! I notice you have a bed underneath the model - how did you set that up? After adjusting Vref on Z a little (I upped it to 0.400 from 0.350) I ran another print, with no improvement. I also tried a slighby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Second mod to the bearing holder. When I got a chance to look at it closely it looked like there would be clearance issues. I Modified it to work with zip ties instead as suggested. Instead of making it such that the ties have to go through the bed I added a channel in the back of the part that connects to the bed for the tip tie to rest in. I have no plans to change mine currently as it isn't giby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Here are a few shots of what I believe is that same 5mm stepped print on my machine. In this case printed in ABS. Pictures of Step Calibrationby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
@jjbunn, It does appear from your pictures that things are a bit too hot. A fan blowing on the parts might help. 190 seems a reasonable number for PLA but I would try to confirm the recommended print temps from the provider.by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
@jjbunn, Looking at your print I can't see the bulge part clear enough to really make any guesses. One thing I do notice is that your prints have a very wavy look to them. Under a microscope I would guess that you can see separation or poor bonding of the layers. I corrected this problem on my machine by moving the lead screws further up in the flex coupling so that the connection would be lessby czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is what I have done with the mount. Running some jobs on the Prusa right now and can't take it offline to test clearances. If someone tries it out and it works OK please let me know and I will post it on Thingiverse. Photo, render, and stl file.by czmorris - Prusa i3 and variants