I connected the z axis plate to the base too far forward and a a result the extruder is not at the back of the build plate when the plate is moved all the way to the front. This means my maximum build space is limited to 165mm y axis rather than the 200mm. I should note though that I have never needed the extra.. But I know the day will come.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
I have tried lots of different things with abs and the bed. Kapton tape (polyamide) is by far the winner - clean it with acetone before the print, and if the model is large I use an abs/ acetone solution on the kapton tape, but normally end up ripping the tape to get it off. Other methods worked for small models but as they get larger and the stress increases they failed for me. Your print looby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
I have linked a photo of my printer with a frame made out of 10mm mdf. The mistakes I made are the z axis is too far forward, although I have a fix for this, but have never bothered. Next time I would put the braces closer to the printer bed and not on the edges, I think it looks better this way, but it would be more practical to mount the electronics on the outside. Like all reprap printerby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Had the same happen on my printer, turned out that I did not have the y axis pulls tightened enough and the pulley was slipping on the stepper shaft. Mark the shaft and the pulley with a marker pen and see if the pulley is slipping.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
You are indicating a layer height more than you nose size, or have you got these the wrong way around? Make sure you nozzle is primed , and filament is flowing correctly before printing. Try slowing everything down a little, best to start with slow prints and get it all working, then speed up to see what your printer will handle. Check your temperatures, you may need to increase to get betterby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Auto bed levelling was something I looked into for my printer, but it has turned out that I don't need it as if you brace the frame and calibrate it accurately then you don't need the software to compensate for an uneven bed. As for the couplers vs rigid rods, I would use the couplers as the threaded rod should be free to move about allowing the printer carriage to travel on the smooth rods withby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Use plywood but I don't think single sheet is the way to go. I have used the i3 design and cut a piece of mdf to the single sheet design, then mounted that to a base board of the same material with triangular braces between the vertical and the base board. All biscuit jointed and glued, it's not going anywhere. There is a hole in the baseboard so I cane easily access the bottom of the platformby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
For a standard i3 you would need. Longer threaded rods Longer smooth rods A longer drive belt A bigger print bed Interestingly through a build mistake I ended up with a printer that only has a 160mm y axis and I have not had anything I wanted to print require anything more, otherwise I would have fixed it by now.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, Your first problem sounds like the classic x end stop not set up correctly as the normal configuration is the x end stop is at x max and the firmware is set up incorrectly and/or the endstop is not plugged into the x max header on the electronics. Sounds like you should also look at calibrating your z axis. There is plenty of information in the wiki. You need to get everything moving corrby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
I sourced my own parts to build a i3 rework. Being in New Zealand made the equation quite a bit different as freight charges priced most kits out of my budget, and many Chinese suppliers charged me no freight, as well the prices kept me under a limits that would have attracted tax on import. Firstly I would say carefully think about what you must have your printer do as a starting point, as youby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Out of concern about the i3 design I decided to build the frame with MDF, and the z axis is firmly attached to a baseboard that sits under the entire printer. All biscuit jointed and glued, it's not moving. Must have got something right, it has been moved several times and I have not yet had to recalibrate the built plate to z axis height. The heated build plate is also mounted rigid, to theby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
When removing abs (to switch colours) I heat my hotend to about 190, which makes the filament soft, but not molten, then pull it out with tensioner removed. This seems to be the best way I have found so far for getting the most material out without damaging anything. The success of this method may depend on the hot end internal profile.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Glue stick is not that great for adhering abs. It works for thin objects, but I have not had any success with a bigger object. You can here it cracking off as the print gets further above the bed. I have found kapton tape is easiest to get consistent stick ability. Wiping it with acetone to clean it before a print makes it better. Clean with the acetone after the print and it's ready to go aby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure you have your i3 hotend fan wired directly to the power input on the control board and bypass the fan control. The hotend fan needs to be on all the time, and also need to be left on after the print completes to allow the hotend to cool off without heat traveling up it.by ICon - General
You have not provided enough information to get any help. What have you got? What steps have you gone through? There are many variants of hardware and software, are any lights on, have you plugged it in, really at the moment I have no clue what you have managed to do.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
This may be a printer stability issue, you could try slowing down the printer a bit, or bracing it. Which axis is showing the problem?by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like you have a home, location issue First let's start with your home position X_HOME_DIR - this should be set to MAX if your endstop is on the right as you look at the front of the printer Y_HOME_DIR - this should be set to MIN if your endstop is at the back of the bed Z_HOME_DIR - this should be set to MIN if you endstop is at the bottom of the axis 0,0,0 should bed the front right ofby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
How hot is it getting? For the bed a lot of people have found it necessary to insulate the bottom of the heater pad to get it up to temp. There is also the possibility that you have restricted the max temp in your firmware, check the max temp settings.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
The home position for your printer should be at the end stops. For an i3 this is usually Xmax, Ymin, Z min. Was the firmware already loaded to the arduino, or did you load it. If you can provide the marlin version you have that would help, but most the settings are in configuration.h for the released versions. ( the dev version is another story) If you have downloaded firmware from GitHub, theby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
The duplicator looks great, but it is not a kit from what I can see, it looks good a strong, with great features. Really depends more on the experience you want out of your 3d printing, I decided to scratch build as I thought I might learn more and end up with the components I wanted. I think the layer height difference may not be real, just comes down to how far they dare to push the markeby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
There are a number of suggestions on this page for driver problems and the like. I have a cheap Chinese ramps board, so not familiar with your boardby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
There is a dxf file on the wiki page Includes the frameby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
I have connected my hotend fan to the power input on the ramps board, it runs all the time, and I not yet had a jam (I have an all metal hotend of magma origin) This also means that it is still being cooled after the print, as long as the power is on, preventing the heat from travelling up the hotend and causing problems. The fan control in marlin is usually about cooling the print when printiby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
If you firmware is marlin, then post the configuration.h file so we can see the settings.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
You may have to be a little more specific as to what you are getting to get a reasonable response to this question. Including pictures of the prints may help. At the very least a link to the model you are having an issue with (some of the models may be at fault, if the tolerances are not reasonable) Quality is a result of Printer build quality - minimal backlash, smooth movement... Calibrationby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
Swap the left and right motor cables and see if the problem changes sides Also check your couplings are not slipping - put a marker pen line from coupling to shaft and coupling to threaded rod.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
If you have a mirrored print, and you flip both x and y, then you will still get a mirrored print. Let's go back to basics. 0,0,0 should be a location on the left,front of your build platform with the extruder touching the build plate. This is the origin or Min x,y,z position. The default setup of a Prusa i3 will have both the z and y endstop said activated in this position. Z and Y should bby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
This could be related to your thermistor setting in your firmware, or the wiring to the thermistor. This is only a guess as you have not given us any information about your printer version or components.by ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
If the cube is twice the height then there is a calibration issue on your z-axis. The hardware configuration and software need to match, to work it all out. First you need to know the stepper specification, most common seems to be 1.8degree steps, but .9 is also quite common. Ramps has micro step options set with jumpers under the stepper driver 1 2 3 no no no full step yes nby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants
I suggest you have a look at the print speed, and the settings for acceleration and jerk. Temperature could also contribute, if it is printing on a layer that has not firmed up sufficiently first, slowing down the print may help. If you could post your configuration.h from marlin I am sure someone here would be more than happy to check it out. With your linear bearings check the diameter of thby ICon - Prusa i3 and variants