Yeah I update with each change and it shows on RH after reset or power up. First thing I watch for. No z_offset defined.by krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
I'm still having an issue. Everything is working as expected. G28 and G29 work fine. However, after the G29 the nozzle is not dropping down far enough to print. I made a great print last night with #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.73, Now today I'm at #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -1.90 and its still not far enough. I ended up giving up and just eliminated giving the G29. My beds aby krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks buddy, you put me on the right path. Changed the following and I'm good. //#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} //#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,100,10000} #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22} #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000} //#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 //#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERAby krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
Having the exact same issue using Repetier-Host. They work normally in pronterface.by krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
Anyone using the BL Touch with Repetier-Host? I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.0 RC7 and everything compiled great. However, I can home X and Y fine. But if I try to raise or lower Z by more than .1mm manually it acts likes it being held back by something in Marlin. Works fine in Pronterface but I hate using that. Any clues to what might be going on? If I try to move up or down 1 to 10mm the probe acts lby krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
Worked for me. // The BLTouch probe emulates a servo probe. #define BLTOUCH // Z Servo Probe, such as an endstop switch on a rotating arm. #define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0 #define Z_SERVO_ANGLES {10,90} // Z Servo Deploy and Stow angles Only lines I uncommented besides this one: #define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 commandby krwynn - Firmware - Marlin
Just as an update. I found the exact fan at 2 locations. Aliexpress has it (free shipping to the US) $8.68 AB4512HX-GD7 and here (2 fans for 1 price. $3.50 shipping to the US) 12.99 for the actual Bulldog fan and a E3D fan. http://www.mini-kossel.com/by krwynn - General
He has the firmware attached to his last post! Quoteziobeto hi jerry have same problem could you try send me your firmware? thanks my email [email protected]by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I can see where comments like this would be very confusing for newcomers to this forum or thread. As an FYI Folger tech DOES NOT have any firmware. Folger tech PROVIDES settings for Marlin Firmware. QuoteEcky Shepp: What is an RH? Does the printer work with the Folger firmware as supplied by them? Thanks.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRob37w Quoteveaceonee How can I get this to work with Windows 8? It will not recognize it no matter what I try. Nothing is working for me either. So I am not showing hidden devices. and assigned it a COM that nothing is using. Still nothing. Should i switch the board in Arduino to something other that Mega 2560? Is there a MKS board i need to install to Arduino's board list? No. Your sby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Awesome. Have a look at this. I think it may help. Adafruit QuoteRob37w Thanks. I'm getting closer. Here is where i am at. It now reconizes the device but ardrunio won't upload to it. See attached two pictures. Also my 3D printing software says "port is in use by another program". I have changed the port from COM 4 to COM 5 and COM 10. Same thing. Thanks so much for the help. Really THby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
This is what I had to do: Go here and download the exe file from the top row right side and install for windows 7. VCP Drivers Unplug anything connected into a USB port run the exe file Reboot Plug in your MKS Gen 1.3 Will probably try to do the driver thing again but it doesnt matter. Open up control panel -> device driver Under Ports you'll probably see either FTDI or FT232R with the faiby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRob37w I'm done dealing with this. Prints great if i use a SD card but i cant get it to communicate with my printer. I'm going to return it or sell it for what i paid. If anyone wants to buy it let me know. Fully assembled and has the upgraded lead screws. $299 When you plug in into your computer does it try to install drivers and fail? I tried to get mine up and working and finally fiby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRob37w Same problem here. Got the printer with the v1.3 board and I can not get my computer to recognize it. How did you guys get your computer to recognize the device? I have one too but haven't used it yet. Wasn't aware that this might be a problem. Maybe the board is USB 3.0 and you're trying to plug it into a 2.0 port?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Bed Leveling Followed this, worked 1st try. There is a ton of info inside this thread concerning bed leveling.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
You need cold, not heat to remove. If just regular glass you'll have to be careful not to cool it too fast. If it's borosilicate glass you can still it in the freezer. Usually a piece will pop off once the glass gets to around 40-45C. As for your temps, you'll need to set those in your slicing software AND your front end settings. Dont use the slider to control temps. You need to take the timeby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteslanwar I'm going to change the config file like you said to see if works, i replaced the original wires to 14 gauge including the ones from the power supply to Ramps board. Where I can get the thermal paste?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Could be a bad connection with either the wires to your bed or the thermistor. Also make sure your thumb screws haven't rubbed through the coating on the heatbed and is making contact with the bed circuit. Some heatbeads have the mounting holes extremely close to the bed curcuitry which can cause issues. Also coat the thermister end with thermal paste and then encapsulate that inside the hole inby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Some of us have found that with the new version of Marlin, changing #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6 to #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 makes a huge difference. Quoteslanwar Same here, tried the video and doesn't work, on top of that my heatbed doesn't go over 94C after updated with the new Marlin, I may missed something so anybody with a configuration.h I can use?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Which can only mean: You actually didn't follow the directions You started with a "dirty" configuration.h file or messed with pins.h or another dependent configuration file Your LCD was DOA or was hooked up incorrectly Your Ramps 1.4 board is defective or connections have not been properly seated into the arduino QuoteVanbot Quotekrwynn Follow this step by step and it will work. At least it dby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteslanwar only 205C on your hotend? I use 245 for the first layer then goes down to 240 but never tried with lower temperatures. Yep. Start at 225 and then drop to 205 after the first layer. If I don't it gets to stringy. Ive never started with ABS higher than 225. Hatchbox, MakerGeeks and Botfeeder filaments.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Folger tech Prusa i3 original hotend... 38mm x 90mm tire for model on thingiverse .18 layer thickness MakerGeeks dark as night ABS 1.75 205 Hot end temp 110 heat bed Elmers purple glue 4.5 hour print Turned out perfect. Smooth as glass.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCraigMoberg So we have one vote for glue stick working well with ABS, and one vote for it not working well. It's tough being a newbie. Add another for glue stick. Elmers purple disappearing works great. Ive tried Xtra strength hairspray too but have read that it can cause shrinkage which could cause lift.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCraigMoberg That corner not printing is a known issue. In your slicer add M400 at the beginning of your end code and that will fix it. I had the same issue. -Kevinby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Follow this step by step and it will work. At least it did for me first try. Not sure how much you have changed in you configuration.h file so you may want to start with a fresh copy. Oh and cover the exposed pins on the LCD with Kapton or electrical tape so you dont accidently short something out. 3D printing guides - Setting up a LCD and SD card controller panel Quoteshepp I did that and thby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Only thing that would do that is a bad connection creating heat. ALL parts are listed here with a link to a vendor: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4 Quotebmfcamaro Hello, It appears that my green power terminal on my RAMPS board has melted. I made sure that all of the screws were tight on the wires and the wires were not tinned. Any ideas as to why this happened? I did happen to read about someby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like you have everything upside down. Nut traps and x-carriage for sure are. They don't need to be in all the way. Also, if you would have watched the videos I suggested, particularly part 17 you'd see how it should look at this point. QuoteApple- For my X carriage, on the part when I have to insert the threaded rods into the stepper motors, it's very bowed out. I've made sure that the rodby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I used the new version and copied settings from the one folger had. Then adjusted from there. QuoteApple- Should I use the supplied version of Marlin? I do plan to set up an auto-leveling bed as one of my first projects, and I heard you have to upgrade your firmware before doing that. Is that true or should I just use what is supplied in the google drive?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Read this thread twice beginning to end. Watch this youtube series Folger Technologies Prusa i3 3d Printer Build Read the manual and make changes based on comments in this forum. Good luck! QuoteApple- I'm supposed to be getting this kit in the mail tomorrow and I have to say i'm quite excited! I'm completely new to 3D printing but i'm a quick learner and I don't think I will have too manyby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson Myself, I'd increase the voltage on the driver on that axis, assuming that you have checked for binding first. A little more torque should clear that up. - Tim Thanks so much for the quick response. It slides very easy. No catches or tight spots. I have voltage set at .370 now and it "should" be at .350. How much higher do you think is safe to go? Thanks again!by krwynn - Reprappers