Thanks for all of the input guys.by Ecky - Delta Machines
I would avoid countersunk holes or any rigid connection between the platen and the frame of the printer. I would use either flexes or kinematic mounts to accommodate the expansion of the platen when heated. A rigidly fixed platen can only bow in reaction to the expansion when heated much as a frying pan bows when heated.by Ecky - Delta Machines
Hi. I am looking to build a delta printer but want to avoid kits. Anyone have any plans for a 2020 based delta printer. Thanksby Ecky - Delta Machines
danielspartsdepot603, an Ebay seller/liquidator has 3D printer parts to sell in New Hampshire. I know Folger is closed but does this mean Folger has folded???by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Was there a reason to upgrade or just having some fun?by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Check and correct your rods for straightness as well. Mine were bent .015 inches/ .4 mm.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I decided to build the 2020 version before trying to make the firmware mods. It will be a couple of days as I need to get some linear bearing mounts printed to raise the print bed support plate to clear the Y axis motor.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
o lampe: The probe will trigger when the before the nozzle hits the bed if the probe is over the bed. What happens is the the print head is in the X home position, extreme right with the probe off the bed, when the Z homing starts so the sensor has nothing to sense. In my mind shouldn't the probe move to the center of the bed before starting the z homing?by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi. I have a Folger acrylic frame printer that I modified with auto levelling and I can't get it to work. I had some axis orientation problems but seem to have worked them out. The X limit switch is at the right of the printer and the Y limit switch is at the back of the printer. The inductive probe is 25 mm to the right of the nozzle and is off the bed when I home the X axis. The axis indicaby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I do not see the point of your question. Why would you get a Prusa I3 frame custom cut unless it is your own design which you are not indicating? There are many laser cut frames available already in a variety of materials. The setup charges alone would make a single frame prohibitively expensive. You would probally have to get a minimum of a 4 x8 ft sheet cut into frames.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks for the reply. I have a Folgertech acrylic and have modified for the bed probe after which it didn't work anymore. I'll try to get it going after Christmas.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Dust: I have the following questions. In what direction are you looking when you say left and right. Are you looking down from above with the Y motor toward you? Are you looking down from above with the Y axis idler toward you? Are you looking from the front with the Y idler pulley closest to you and the X motor on the left? Are you looking from the back with the Y motor closest toby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Any tips or tricks here as it seems like a big tedious job..by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Can I use a tablet to run the Arduino IDE. The tablet has a full size USB port.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
No problem. Will start new thread in a couple of days. Thanks for your assistance so far.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the acrylic model and I built it with the electronics on the right. My X axis endstop is on the left and the Y axis endstop is on the left back attached to the left threaded rod. I would like to get some assistance with debugging the firmware after the installation of a proximity switch. I'll photograph it tomorrow to aid in understanding the setup.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKenwolfe So, the right is your right while looking at it. Looking from top down, is what I understand? Power supply and electronics closest to me.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have what may seem to be a stupid question. When people are saying left and right, from which direction are they looking?by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I really do not have a direct answer for you. Did you power down the PC and restart before you plugged in the Arduino? Eckhard.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Folger acrylic kit(inexpensive) and am very happy with it. This for hobby purposes isn't it and not for production? Hobbies are supposed to challenge you and help pass the time. I had it printing a few calibration pieces and before I was finished with the calibration I modified it for auto levelling and now I've retired and have some time to complete that. For me the whole point of thby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
A great job. I have one to build so I will allow myself to be inspired by your efforts. As perfection is the game using the frame as a heatsink would cause a thermal imbalance in the frame and make the frame warp. It would be best to have a heatsink on the relay and cool that with a fan. In theory of course.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
It was a struggle but they are both working now. I set the flow control in the "Device Manager"/Ports/Arduino***/Port Settings/Flow Control to 'Hardware' and then tried load in an empty sketch. I also changed the comm port to the first unused one... If you need more info contact me.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Uninstalled some software but still having problems. These are the messages in yellow in the Arduino IDE. avrdude: ser_open(): can't open device "\\.\COM3": Access is denied. avrdude: ser_drain(): read error: The handle is invalid. Tried a second board and it doesn't work either. The second board doesn't flash the TxRx lights and the AREF light is off on the laptop. It does however flash tby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
Tried that. When it is connected to the desktop box the board shows only one green light. When connected to the laptop it shows the yellow AREF light as well and occasionally flashes the RxTx lights. I have tried pushing the reset button for up to 10 seconds with power on or off but no change. Any thoughts, anyone??by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Mega2560 that I used to be able to connect to with my laptop. It won't accept files anymore, can't up load them. It says it can't open communications. It worked for a while after my changeover to Win 10 and then stopped. I can upload with my desktop however. Both Win 10 machines. Anyone have any ideas??by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
You could also fill the gap with something like Bondo and then tighten it after it is set. We use Bondo a lot as temporary tooling/fixturing where I work. Better yet, use a metal filled epoxy, JB WELD is it, to make up the gap and have a stiffer frame in the end. Bake it in an oven to a temp higher that what you would see when using the part and you should be all set.by Ecky - Reprappers
Hi my name is Eckhard and I have a Folger machine like yours except that my Y axis home switch is at the back of the machine. I have added the inductive sensor in same position as on your machine and have trouble making it work. It does the X and Y axis homing but doesn't want to center on the plate. It just wants to bury the nozzle into the aluminum plate. I would like to join in and try to gby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I installed the inductive sensor for the bed height and now I am ready to try it but I have realized that the only functioning software/firmware I have is the Folger one and it doesn't seem to have the code for the inductive sensor. Would someone like to share their functioning software with me or let me know if there is a copy available somewhere that I can download. Thanks Eckhardby Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
66 here.by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants
I ordered the motors, belts, bearings and couplers for my Orballo Stainless build. I am going to use a Bowden extruder for this one.. Anyone have any recommendations on which type?by Ecky - Prusa i3 and variants