Hi Sarf24 I had a look at it, but did not know how to use the TRUE/FALS stuff. For the X carriage, the bearing alone, under the 2 for guiding, better make the groove a little larger than the bearing, if the machine have miss alignment this will help not place hard point in your machine. Mechanically speaking, the 2 serial connected bearings, will guide the carriage, the 3rd one is only here foby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes I use it sometimes But according to the function of your print, you will chose the plastic material. PLA also have less wrap. But easy melt and break ABS is good for mechanical parts... Also you must consider time of print. Thanks for the tips.by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi I think no need so many washer, from the moment that your have something to guide the filament as closed to the nozzle. Check if without it you have PTFE tube to guide the filament. Maybe pictures of the assembly will help us more .by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Burn the plastic out with a flame, use the gas cooker. Then brush correctly, care it will smell bad, black smoke, and liquid plastic. Like that the plastic became very easy tu brush or scratch. Don't use tape or other stuff or old plastic will stay in your nozzle and u will get problems. Jam, nozzle reduction, black spot in your prints.... When install, first screw the nozzle till max thenby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Looking at your printer, are you sure the 2 extruders are mounted correctly? I will have flip them 180 deg to have the fan cool the heat blocker and not the back of the motors. Check that again first. I have checked and yes, but if you read comments, some guys say it is useless also. When you heat the filament, the nozzle became hot, but if you not cool the guide over the heat block, thenby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi First for abs printing your bed must be at 110 deg c. Or it will not stick and may move during long print. Your fan for cooling the extruder blow directly on the x carriage, be sure that no air flow bounce back on your print, this increase the part cooling, then the abs start shrinking faster and your print will be deformed and messy Try rotate the fan 90 deg left or right. Your print looksby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Good, I will look at this.by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi What do you mean by the printer got more and more low? If your computer loose the com port it can be from the cable bad quality, the USB port not fast enough, or USB port share with other devices like mouse, keyboard... It happen to me with old computer. Check this first. Also Try in configuration.h to reduce the communication speed. Also reduce in repetier host.by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi JimmyClarke Good you start printing Calibration is the base for good printing. 1: X,Y,Z adjust Estep as closed as possible 2: Filament feeding Estep 3: Control your temperature for Hot Bed and nozzle. MUST do that also. 4: Bed LEVEL, MUST I will say check every time your first layer. 4: Nozzle height, this one is the base, if not good, your print will be messy. after fine adjustment X,Yby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
HI It may be possible, because last time in your settings you have 0.4mm and I corrected it at 0.25. Better try again. Also calibration first.by Laopa - Printing
Hi So far so good for me also, but I do not trust the acrylic , so after few days printing and everything ok, I use superglue for the main frame, 2 sides, and motor supports. in fact it is not the acrylic the problem, it is those sharp corners they cut who make the structure easy break. If one day they start to round all of this, it will be perfectby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Can you give us all the page setting? did you try another slicer? change cura and keep the same settings on the top. better also give us pictures of the part on the bed. with the first outside layer. and side.by Laopa - Printing
Hi I do not know if it is my eyes, but look like your nozzle is not perpendicular to the bed! for filament feeding, it is better to skip step than push too much, un tight and progressively adjust until no missing steps. I will first reduce the amount of material feeding to the printer, better to have hole in the print than too much to see the problems. can you give us your settings? speed, tby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Ok Try this for mini maxi print 25 30 travel 40 60 first layer 20 25 outer 25 30 inner 30 40 infill 25 35 first layer height 0.25 first layer width 200% print and check a first layer first, if all the lines are joining, no gap then continue. I will say for the rules (but can change) first layer you want to print slowly ~80 of your print speed, you must place max material width 200% and yoby Laopa - Printing
Yep Over extruding a lot. Retraction not enough. and certainly too hot.by Laopa - General Mendel Topics
Hi Check your belt tension, the infill does not touch the walls. Also look if your nozzle is not jam. do you have enough material going out? or temperature enough?.by Laopa - Printing
Hi JimmyClark look at the first loop around your print, left and front look like your nozzle is too close to the bed and material cannot get out . The right side, the bed is little lower so more material but very squishy. Up you nozzle ~0.1 to 0.15mm. Also I did not see any cooling fan near your nozzle, so you will heat too much the material. Also you place Kapton tape Over the heat break haby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
HI I got same issue also, and it was my fan mount on the E3D who was "not air tight", it was blowing air over the print. The air was blowing at the back of the machine, bounce over the carrier and back to the print. The worse for ABS is fast cooling, check with your hand where the air goes, and avoid people running around your printer.by Laopa - Printing
HI, Print looks OK, Measure the height of the first loop every time, it will tell you if your bed is level correctly and the distance of your nozzle. For what I see, I will down a little the nozzle to get flatter first layer and fill the gap between the lines. If you are already very low ( for nozzle 0.4mm height at ~0.25 to 0.3) increase the amount of plastic as DC42 says.by Laopa - Printing
Hi Be sure the drivers 4988 are in good direction and you have all the jumpers under them set correctly. If you invert the drivers they will heat as crasy and may be damage. As _o_Lamp, be sure one pair is on A and the other is on B. If this ok, With a small knif remove the terminals from there supports and be sure they can be inserted tight over the drivers pins. A lose connection happen oftby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi 1978 bamf It will be better if you can give us a picture of your card and connection. Also do not plug the LCD until all is set correctly. These guy is easy to break. Are all the motors making noise? Unplug everything Keep heaters and thermocoupler. Check if your drivers are in the correct direction. Only plug one motor on x. Try to move it Change motor Try again. Result? If ok try the mby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi This error message can be because your thermistor is short circuit, open or read wrong value Remove the thermistor from heater nozle, to be sure the sensor legs not touching other things. ChecK wires, connections, pins.... And read temperature again Also check in marlin if your thermistor is the correct one, try all of them in case. If you have multimeter measure unplug the resistor of thby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Stick a pen on your carriage, place a paper on your bed, move x and y, if your movement request nearly the same as what you request then stop touching the caps. You will fine tune later. Now look at your print, your nozzle is so fare from the bed than your plastic fall on your bed. Check other post arround here, you will find all the answers.by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Your print looks much better sure but you still have some big problems. You increase flow rate to 100% and down speed at 5mm/s. When everyone can run in basic 25mm/s. So for me it mean you will leave your plastic material heat inside the nozle far more too long. Now as you say here. So much flow rate for so slow speed. Did you check your nozle temperature? Start from cold using small thermomby Laopa - General
Hi sarf2K4 For 1st, I sometime use pad to print at the bottom, mean you design full circle of diameter 20mm, and when you place your object, you placce beside the object this pads as much as you want. This will increase your bed contact surface and they will be the first one to lift if problems. And when they start, you can place glue under. For PLA I never used so no much help sorry. but one thby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Check again, double the value in your configuration.h. Use my value or _o_Lamp value. After that do fine calibration to readjust. NB: for prusa i3 can be O_ Lamp value, but on GEEEtech is not standard. Even the wiring of the motors are different A+A-B+B-. I spent 1 day figuring that when I changed a motor.by Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi When you adjust a printer, everyone do the same mistakes and try to push as much material as they can, but to fine tune your machine it better to start by the opposite. If you down your infill at 60% it mean you miss something in the extruder calibration, better check the 100 mm again. After you can readjust +/-5%. After place all your speed at 30mm/s The first layer down a littte at 25mm/by Laopa - General
HI Sarf2K4 Good you finaly solve that. I just Wonder who can sell you a Rod with Inch threadby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants
HI Look better. Before doing cubes and cubes, you must do a final flow rate calibration. use This help, this is one of the best (my point of view). when you can success with that, we will check other problems. Also check if your belt do not touch the U guides in X and Y, or you will have to smooth the U. And then do a temperature calibration. Different material = different temp. CARE ifby Laopa - General
HI Your problem is your configuration.H, the DRV8825 who are 1/32 and in your config.H you have the settings for 1/16. leave all the jumper Under the drivers on your card as actual. SOLUTION: Go to your configuration.H and double the value. OLD: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.74, 78.74, 2560, 95} by NEW: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {157.48, 157.48, 5120, 190} and all wby Laopa - Prusa i3 and variants