Skillet You will also find you never stop building. Always trying new things and wanting better prints. A drop over box will work just fine. I started with a cardboard box and a plastic window taped into it for a start. Just as long as you can get going.by RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Hi and welcome. First decide on what you will be printing the most. ABS(hot) or PLA(colder). I think you should build the kit to suite your needs. If printing more ABS you will for sure need an enclosure to get better prints. For PLA again colder room temp will be better. And so does the hot ends then also play a role. My machine is setup for ABS and i struggle with PLA so i now want to build aby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Had a similar problem. My problem was the following. You need to make sure that the nozzle is tight against the heat break. Don't just hand tighten it. You can assemble the complete hot end of the extruder. Then heat the nozzle and block and tight the nozzle with a ten spanner. Be careful to not strip the thread but be sure it is tight. If it is not it will only extrude a bit and then block. Rby RiaanLR - Printing
Hi John I got the PLA print going. It was some tweaking to get it right but worth the effort. Very nice prints. The top layers come out allmost nicer than the bottom. What i found was that it did not stick to glass with gluestick on it. I got it sticking to blue painters tape. Remember to just wipe the painters tape with alcohol or acetone. You will see the shiny coating come off. It sticks toby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
I have sorted my problem. The best way to learn in live is via trial and error. In Marlin I had to change one of my speed settings from 5 to 3. The z axis could not get down fast enough and got stuck. #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 3, 25} // (mm/sec) Riaanby RiaanLR - General Mendel Topics
I have sorted my problem. The best way to learn in live is via trial and error. In Marlin I had to change one of my speed settings from 5 to 3. The z axis could not get down fast enough and got stuck. #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 3, 25} // (mm/sec) Riaanby RiaanLR - Reprappers
They are not in Cape Town but sure in SA. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Hi John I have spend the last few days setting up auto bed leveling. At last i can report it is working good. So now i will set up the fan and try to print PLA. Unbelievable to think that those little foam shielding makes such a big difference. When printing PLA (soon) i will have to keep the enclosure open. I hope to get better results with the small things. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
I made my own e3d hotend on the lathe. Really not difficult to do. I am not a turner just have one for hobbies. Works like a charm. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
How deep does it push in. Just about touching the part or like about 1mm and then destruction. It can bee like previously mentioned. Check and recheck bed height. But before that make sure your x axis run parallel to your bed. Then it can also be that your speed is to high and the m5 rods start to move on the motors resulting in the print height going wrong. Show picture of how the or connected.by RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Here is my g code from slic3r. Look at G1. It tells the hotend to start printing at .3 mm. Is the correct or should the value be .3 mm plus the offset value of the probe. Then it should be in the minus something. ; generated by Slic3r 1.1.7 on 2015-05-09 at 01:11:02 ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.26mm ; top infill extrby RiaanLR - General Mendel Topics
Have a look at my g code when starting. ; generated by Slic3r 1.1.7 on 2015-05-09 at 01:11:02 ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.26mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.26mm G21 ; set units to millimeters M107 M190 S100 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached M104 S230 ; set temperature G28 ; home all axis G29 M106 S255 ; sby RiaanLR - Reprappers
I have set this to false #define min_software_endstops false //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. I have my config h file uploaded in higher up. Maybe if some one could have a look and see if thy can pick up any mistakes. I will look at the ABL settings. Thanks. It is a digital servo and might replace it with a analog HXT 900. In my startup g code corrct. ; generateby RiaanLR - Reprappers
Here is a link to the video i have made to illustrate what is happening. Riaanby RiaanLR - Reprappers
Here is a link to you tube of what is happening. Riaanby RiaanLR - General Mendel Topics
I am not sure. I think it is the stable one. Marlin 1.0.2 I will double check this. Riaanby RiaanLR - General Mendel Topics
Yes i have. I got X -33.30 witch I entered as positive 33. (I could not get Marlin to verify with the .30 so i left it out for now. Y -20.00 witch i entered as positive 20 Z 11.40 witch I entered as negative -11.40 What i have found is that after homing all axis I can not move the z down further. So it is reading Z as 0 but does not go to minus. If i override that lets saqy by G92 Z20 i can theby RiaanLR - Reprappers
When i give a G 28 command X will move to end stop then Y to end stop. Then move to center of bed swicht acting as a probe will come down and the z will move down till end stop is triggered. G29 command will then move to the four different probe setting points and do the probe thing moving up and down twice on each probe. It will then stay at the position of the last probe and wait for the hot enby RiaanLR - Reprappers
I just want to confirm. I replaced the old end stop on the ramps with the new end stop switch that will be used as the probe. Lets now call that the probe(End stop Switch). The probe i then plug into the Z min end stop pins on the ramps board. Where the previous end stop was. Think this is starting to sound wrong. Riaanby RiaanLR - Reprappers
Hope you can help. I have the latest version of Marlin. Built my P3Steel a month ago. Using Repetier Host and Slic3r. Set up auto bed levelling and all works up to the point where the print starts. The hotend or z axis does not come down to the bed. It stays in the air where it stopped after G29 and starts to print. Then just keeps on printing in mid air. I am attaching my config.h file for reby RiaanLR - General Mendel Topics
I have a P3Steel running with Marlin and slic3r. I have set up the auto bed levelling and start up is good. It warms up the bed, does a G28 then a G29 and then waits for the hotend to warmup. Now the problem. When the print starts the hotend stays at the same height. It does not come down to the bed. I have set the offset probe values in Marlin. Any help please. I am stuck. Riaanby RiaanLR - Reprappers
Thanks for the input. I have re-calibrated and are doing better. Getting PLA this week and will then see how that prints. Looks like the way to go. Will give some feedback later in the week.by RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
I had a similar problem. My problem was that i did not fasten the brass nozzle tight enough on to the aluminum block.I have the E3D hot end. When it is warm tighten it and it was good.by RiaanLR - Mendel90
Yes please. Have a look at the cube photos. The back to corners don't stay cool and curl up resulting in a mess. The front to corners are good. This does not make sense to me. I am extruding ABS 3 mm with a .4 mm nozzle. Heat bed at 100 and nozzle 230. printing at 40mm/s at .2mm layers. Extruder multiply is set to .7 giving me i fine .4mm single wall thickness when printed. I am using an enclosurby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
I have my P3Steel sorted quite good but still learning. I will post a photo bit later of one specific problem i don't have a clue about. I will go to model engineers show. Guess i can find info on the net if i google it. Where do you buy filament from. I am getting mine from DIY Electronics. Would like to know more about filament. I think theres also come from China. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Did you come right with parts. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Johannesburg RUG
I recently built a P3Steel and did some silly mistakes trying to get it to print. Let us know if you are sorted. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Johannesburg RUG
Can I ask if Slicing software also make a difference. I am using Slic3r and are getting good results. Can not print fine thingies at this stage but are happy. Would just like to know about slicing software. Riaanby RiaanLR - Prusa i3 and variants
Just finished my P3Steel build. I have got a lathe and that helped a lot. I could turn my own hotend. Got all my stuff locally and from DIY Electronics and Communica in Woodstock. Nice to see their are people in Cape Town. Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group
Hi Guys I am out in Worcester. Myself and a friend who got me into this have both 3d printers. I did build my printer from scratch. Did not buy a kit. Think their is a need to talk to other people as i have had a few difficulties building and setting up. Regards Riaanby RiaanLR - South Africa, Cape Town RepRap User Group