Quoteveaceonee My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better. Moisture, non uniform filamanet size, and your extruder not calibrated can cause a little of this...but when it is this bad, and gets worse with speed and height, then you probably have some wobble in the machine. First I would check the structural bolts andby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks good! I have made a few "improvements" myselfby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekeitarocos Another bad solder joint on one of the end-stop switches. This is just ridiculous, and this time both contacts came off. It's not that hard to create a solder joint, I am very annoyed, I just was to get this done but everything keeps popping out of nowhere to stop me. Since the end stop on the Y-axis is moving back and forth, over the frame, it will keep breaking....unless youby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUkemaxxer Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick. Glass does not have any electromagnetic properties. However if you put 5mm of glass on top with a sensor that takes readings at 4mm you may have problems. I would also assume printing on a flat surface (glass), but measure a warped one (aluminum bed), could be problematic as well. I have not tried the aby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
@magiske With the original heat bed, soldered to fix a spot that burned out, I heat up from room temp to 100c in 22 minutes. I have some fiberglass under the bed but don't know how much a difference it makes....I think I would be careful with cork/wood.by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
1) The bed takes a verrrry long time to heat up to 100 or 110 for printing ABS. Will a 24V power supply fix this? What is very long(15 minutes or over an hour). The heat bed should heat up as fast as you supply enough Watts (Watts= Volt x Amps; a 12v 20amp PSU has same power output as a 24v 10 amp PSU).....until your heat bed fails.by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
@Putzer & Invictus I had to loosen the brass bushing, to get things moving till I could print new parts....earlier in the thread someone posted the Migbot .stl files However, I still think there is another issue. I am waiting on a new set of calipers to know for sure, but i am thinking the distance between the smooth rod and threaded rod vary between the printed parts and laser cut parts.by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
@Putzer, I don't know if "More Power!" is going to be the best solution. Electricity can be described to flow like water. If you are trying to flow too much through too small of pipes you get back pressure. With water pipes, they rupture, for electricity, things overheat, melt, and catch fire. If you received the same tiny power cable going the PSU that I did, I would first replace it beforeby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterejaak .... try and figure out the bed centering issue. ... I have had similar confusion between Marlin, Pronterface, and Slic3r. Jcaber correct me if my understanding is wrong. In Marlin you set travel limits: once you hit your end stop how far you can move. Pronterface: just lets you move freely (that button which which appears to center your extruder just moves +100 X & Y) Slic3r (by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
@jmkslave I ordered a new heat bed....but I thought I would try to fix my bad bed while I waited for it to arrive. I am not saying this is a good fix (it is not completely flat, and there is no guarantee it wont just fail somewhere else). I was able to lightly scrape off the outer coating of the heat bed till I seen he shinny copper inside, and then solder it.by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote3DST 1. When we select "Auto Home", a. The print bed goes ALL the way forward and starts grinding the belt teeth. b. The Extruder moves to the Far Right c. The Z-Axis moves DOWN... Hits the Limit Switch... but instead of stopping... it pushes the Limit Switch assembly DOWN trying to move past the Print Bed. 2. I tried setting the "Set home offsets"again. But when I try tby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm i'm using repetier-host I can't really help you with Repetier....it may be easier for you just download Marlin, since everyone else in the thread seems to be using it. You can then just paste my settings in configuration.h section....which should get you close; but you may want to adjust these for your machine. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT // Travel limits after homingby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm the extruder reverse way. Check this section in Marlin (E0 should be your extruder)... #define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false #define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true #define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruderby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejmkslave Hi, I bought my first printer 2 weeks ago and have it built. I was about to calibrate the extruder when I found that the heat bed will only heat up to 44 degrees. JMK, I had a similar problem, my heat bed would only heat up to about 95 degrees no matter what I tried. What I found is the board has three circuits and mine was only heating on the back two. You can check with a diby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
I think it is safe to assume the thermistors are working right.....ish ( you are going to have some variance due to hardware, firmware, environment, and where you take readings). You may want to make sure you are using the correct firmware settings..... #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 3 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 3 Here are Matterhackers PLA suggestions Coby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
One more thing that might help...you may want to lock tight (or superglue) the nuts that hold the Y-belt bracket in place. Mine have a tendency to come loose and are a pain to get to.by tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Probably should not be much a surprise at this point, but the linear bearings that came with the Migbot are junk. I noticed some shaking in the extruder and heard grinding. When I took things apart I seen the metal ball bearings cut into the plastic outer race. Your Z-axis may last for some time but your X & Y should probably be replaced ASAP. I modified the original files for the Migbotby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Chris looks like you have pushed through your share of issues as well.... My suggestions for printing would be to first make sure everything is level on the bed. Check all four corners, not just the middle. You can adjust out of alignment on the X-axis by a twist to your right Z-axis stepper motor. If you cannot still get things level buy a sheet of glass to go on top. I have had good lucby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
I figured out what my problem was with the z motor. The wires for the z motors ohmed good, but someone switched the location of the white and green wires on one end of the cable. Thanks for the suggestions. Here is everything I found wrong..... The AC power cord to PSU is too small to handle more than a couple amps. (careful if you use this and the PSU actually puts out 20 amps it could getby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants
I got my Migbot a few days ago. Worked around many of the problems (bad/weak power supply, warped printed parts) The one things I cannot seem to figure out is why my z-axis motors wont work. I know the motors and wires are good but their has to be either something wrong with the motherboard or firmware....I am beginning to think it is the motherboard. Anyone else have issues with z-axis? Iby tkin - Prusa i3 and variants