HAHA. And its only been 4 months since I bumped this post. The guitar looks great and thanks for sharing it. I haven't done anything that extravagant, but I did make some washers for the toilet seat screws. They worked great. Forums are honestly the best, some of these FB group things are for the birds, way too much drama and idiots involved. As soon as you posted I got an email notification.by Devil Inc - RepRap User Group - Toledo Ohio
Quoteanimoose Way back on this thread, markts reported needing to download a new Marlin and make some config change to get the LCD panel to work (I mean this one). I just tried mine and it worked out of the box. All the necessary defines are already set in configuration.h and pins.h. I haven't tried a print with it yet, so I don't know if it will kill the run the way markts said. I may have to diby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDMPurdy Thanks I will give it a try...Also, is the the glass piece supposed to be secured down to the heat bed or just loose? It seems like it may slide around. Get some binder clipsby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts After witnessing some "play" in the Y belt, I installed a spring tensioner. It seems much better, so I started a 2 hour print. About 20 minutes in I heard a strange sound and found the bed had shifted. I thought the belt slipped because it started printing basically off the bed (on the side away from the endstop). Something must have bound up, so I tried removing the tensioner, buby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehockey9999 Devil, try this x tensioner, I didn't lose any room on the x axis on my acrylic Folgertech with it. I only used the part the bearings go in to, the other half is specific to the rework idler end. The one you already printed for the outside of the idler should work fine. That would work, I think. I could probably pull the tensioner back a few mm, but I'm fine with were it's at foby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine leaks a little before and after a print, I'm trying to work through a calibration procedure to minimize it. I just have to make sure I grab it before the printer takes off to start printing. I print 3 wraps around whatever I'm printing to make sure the nozzle is flowing nicely, with the occasional skirt on the part to help out as well.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Printed this today to help tension the belt. Lost approx. 10mm in the X travel, though I think if I slide the bed and hardware over I can gain it back. I like the design with one exception, I think it needs a clip that would mount to one of the smooth rods for support or both rods, or redesign it to integrate into the Z-axis carrier. Tensioner 1 Tensioner 2by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
I've not taken mine that high yet, mine stays in the 60-70C range. I'd say 15 minutes or so to heat up, never really kept track.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTenny QuoteDevil Inc Ordered my E3D V6 hot end last night. Not to decide what style of extruder do I want to build it into. Bowden/Wades? I kind of like the Airtripper drives as they are direct drive so they are compatible with most of the parts in my MK7 extruder. I'm open to options and opinions. Curious why you didn't go with the lite version? I was looking at doing the lite version withby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Ordered my E3D V6 hot end last night. Not to decide what style of extruder do I want to build it into. Bowden/Wades? I kind of like the Airtripper drives as they are direct drive so they are compatible with most of the parts in my MK7 extruder. I'm open to options and opinions.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been running my Folger Tech PLA @ 185-188 with good results. I've been running the bed temp @ 70, but turned it down to 55 last night. We'll see how the lower temp goes with larger prints. I have some Hatchbox PLA ready to go on soon, so we'll see how it fairs. I've been reading the recommended layer height is 80% of the nozzle diameter. I'm shooting to calibrate mine for .1mm or less perby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteroutb3d There has been mention of Folgertech material setting files on the google drive. I wasn't able to locate the files. Can someone help me out with a link to the material setting files for PLA and ABS? Thanks, Isaiah Sort by list, it's easier to see what's in there.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemottihoresh QuoteDevil Inc This is the one I have currently, not really liking it, but that might be because I still have the stock fan on there. It doesn't really have enough CFM for the dual outlets, IMO. I did have this one on it, I might throw it back on and see if it helps. I do have a beefier fan to install, but I need to pickup some M3 allthread. I don't have any screws that fby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Try unplugging & plugging the USB back in and/or a different port. See it the firmware software can communicate with it. Not 100% on either info tip, but worth a shot.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
This is the one I have currently, not really liking it, but that might be because I still have the stock fan on there. It doesn't really have enough CFM for the dual outlets, IMO. I did have this one on it, I might throw it back on and see if it helps. I do have a beefier fan to install, but I need to pickup some M3 allthread. I don't have any screws that fit properly.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, I'm currently using PLA. I tried slowing it down, speeding it up, neither of which made any real progression towards cleaning up the print. I tried with the print fan on and off, again I didn't notice any change. Pretty much all of the overhangs have artifacts. I tried 4 prints in Repetier and 1 in Cura, all turned out more or less the same. While watching it, it looked as if the tip of thby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
That little Benchy boat is EVIL! It starts out well and ends fairly well, but the upward slope of the bow looks like complete POO! Any suggestions?by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Anyone find a good fan duct to print to let you blow air onto the part being printed? I see a bunch, but I don't see how they attach to the head. I've tried a few, still trying more as I get my printed tuned better. Most of the i3 compatible ones I've seen, you take the heatsink and press it into the duct and then put the extruder back together the same way you took it apart.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
animoose, with the 10C temp difference I don't think you should have that much difference in print quality. Have you taken a trip through this calibration guide?by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm southwest of Lima, St. Marys. The Folger is my first printer. I have a friend at work that has MakerGear M2, that got me hooked on getting into the printing arena. I got mine Memorial Day weekend. I don't have any long term goals, other than maybe building a larger formay, multi-extruder machine. I'm into scale RC trail trucks, so I've been designing scale racing fuel cells and a few otheby Devil Inc - RepRap User Group - Toledo Ohio
I pulled my machine apart after a week of running and re-lubed the bearings with white lithium grease. I found a tube of it at the local auto parts store. I know there is an aerosol can variety, but I didn't want to mess with the overspray. I run my Folger Tech branded 'Martian Red' PLA @ 188C I've been getting a small amount of ooze leaving black spots on my prints, so I found the threaded tubby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not in the Toledo area, I'm a little over an hour south between Toledo and Dayton. I currently have a Folger Tech 2020 Prusa i3. Just saying hello.by Devil Inc - RepRap User Group - Toledo Ohio
Direct Drive extruder rework for MK7 Gear, E3D v6 head found on #Thingiverse Search around on Thingiverse, there were a few more, this was just the first I found.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like the motor is engaging the filament. Is it making it through the block and into the hot end? I'm almost through a spool of red PLA from FolgerTech, extending at 188C, 219C just seems way too high to me. It might be possible that the hot end is clogged with burnt PLA, which would mean tearing it apart further. Yes, on the manual feed. There is a safety check in the firmware to stop exby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine was on the right as well. If you intend on driving the motor as described in the guide, it should be on the right. Sounds like the extruder was assembled correctly, just backwards from how it was intended to be. Maybe FT can help out with a replacement for whichever electronics went out on you. I'm sure the extruder wasn't assembled by them, so it's a supplier issue. That would explain whyby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Pic 3 looks the way it should be. I'd pull the black box apart on the motor and make sure there isn't any plastic bits, etc. floating around in there. My wires are bundled to the left if looking at the front of the printer. The hot end block can easily be positioned to your liking, simple loosen the set screw and adjust to the position you want.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
You have to home it first, you should then be able to command movement. Make sure you're actually connected to the printer. Check the logs.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser Question about the Folger and other kits: It seems the most common initial problem is endstops being backwards, etc. If the kit is pre-packaged with the initial settings, why does everyone (on every kit, not just Folger) always have to figure out which way things go? Because the boards are bare, the firmware needs to be installed and configured. It's a money saver for the company selby Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Try the extruder on a different driver/different axis. Force the hot end to heat up and then try moving whichever axis the extruder is hooked up to and see if it works. Possible the firmware isn't quite right. I've moved onto a larger stepper motor for the extruder and am considering going to a different hot end soon.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants
Are the threads boogered up? Sounds like there may be some alignment issues at play also. If you're travelling downward, you have gravity helping, so there shouldn't be much of a load seen. I think a slightly better design would be to have the nut slide into the cavity, that way once installed it can't 'pop' out unless there are major issues, likely breaking other parts.by Devil Inc - Prusa i3 and variants