QuoteDust no, you can move without homing after you reset the location you can move up and down, as long as you don't try and go past the new 0 location You can run a printer without endstops, as long as you remember to tell the printer where it is after power on and don't send any homing commands. Perfect! Thank you!by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
But I can't move at all without homing first, right? Is there an override for that?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I have an issue with my printer that I'm curious if anyone has run across. I have bed leveling with a servo and switch, and it has been working great. Recently, I printed something taller that I have before. It finished but with scant space before the highest the Z axis can travel. I powered off the printer, but now I realize I can't home the Z axis when I turn it back on. Usually when I do,by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like fun. . Got a link to the Facebook group?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I definitely saw a change in adhesion when I went to the E3DV6-Lite. I also think it is related to the temperature and difference in the thermistors. I got tired of printing balls of plastic so I went back to blue tape on the glass for now.by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
What printing speed did you use? I recently found that knob to tweak.by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I know there's been a lot of discussion about the proximity sensor for bed leveling. I recently switched to the E3D hot end and for some reason I've been having trouble getting prints to stick (PLA on borosilicate). I never had a problem before the hot end swap. I've been playing with temperatures and that may be related but I have also found the bed height isn't consistent. Again, that shouldby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander Quotemarc2912 Quoteflatlander Is there any reason not to use a stainless feed gear as a replacement? By the way, thanks for the heads-up. Folger Tech sells a replacement described as steel. Personally I wouldn't order anything other than the printer on FT's site. They're a great starting point but past that their prices and quality are not really competitive. As for gettiby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotemarkts I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175). I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought,by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175). I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought, "Why take the chance of mby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAres2189 printer wont connect to rep host. i keep getting this log message: No start signal detected-forcing start Any help would be appreciated. i have searched here but unable to find anything helpful. only thing that might be relevant is maybe it is a clone ftdi chip and computer wont recognize? Thanks Based on what I see when I Google that, it looks like the baud rate is wrong? Cby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
It's alive! I managed to get the filament passing through the PTFE easier and was able to do a 20mm cube test print - looks great! One thing I noticed - with the old hot end, I was printing PLA at 175C. With the new one (and even noted by E3D) I'm up to 195 now. I wonder if it's a difference in the thermistors? I'm going to grab my non-contact thermometer and check (at a lower temp, one thatby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotemarkts I'm also a little concerned with losing Z height. When I look at the extruder you pointed out, my mechanically-challenged brain can't make sense of the pieces. So using some of those with the E3D will raise it all up to give me some height back? Yes but if you don't want to use that extruder you'll have to 'cut' off most of the extruder part, I've already dby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotemarkts I definitely have to give Rep Host a try. I've been happy with Octoprint but I'm always looking to see what else is out there. I spent some time over the last few days getting my E3D-V6 Lite together and installed. I had printed a bunch of things to get ready, knowing I wouldn't want to put the old hot end back on if I forgot something. These: Z-endstop trigger adjustby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotemarkts I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole. Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!) Edit: Does Folger ship something different now? Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well. Not certain, butby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotemarkts Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks tryinby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I definitely have to give Rep Host a try. I've been happy with Octoprint but I'm always looking to see what else is out there. I spent some time over the last few days getting my E3D-V6 Lite together and installed. I had printed a bunch of things to get ready, knowing I wouldn't want to put the old hot end back on if I forgot something. These: Z-endstop trigger adjustment: Stronger Z-endstopby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarkts QuoteUltiFix Quotemarkts QuoteUltiFix First abs print! Wahoo! The abs is green, and the clearish is glow in the dark pla. Those do look great! Stock setup? I'm jealous of you guys with the great overhangs. I printed and have been using a fan duct (separate fan) and even still, overhangs still come out "janky" (as my son puts it). At the moment I'm using a stockby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarkts QuoteUltiFix First abs print! Wahoo! The abs is green, and the clearish is glow in the dark pla. Those do look great! Stock setup? I'm jealous of you guys with the great overhangs. I printed and have been using a fan duct (separate fan) and even still, overhangs still come out "janky" (as my son puts it). At the moment I'm using a stock printer/hot end (though tby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Sorry for the acronyms. S3D = Simplify3d (www.simplify3d.com)by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
All I had to do was load up the stl to see it's sitting above the Z axis. You should be able to move it down and it will print fine (S3D has a "center and arrange" button).by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix First abs print! Wahoo! The abs is green, and the clearish is glow in the dark pla. Those do look great! Stock setup? I'm jealous of you guys with the great overhangs. I printed and have been using a fan duct (separate fan) and even still, overhangs still come out "janky" (as my son puts it). At the moment I'm using a stock printer/hot end (though the E3DV6-lite is ready toby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Is the custom Google search broken? I even tried creating a new one, but a search for "folger" came up empty. I put together my E6D-V3 Lite and was looking for a good mount/fan combo. I saw this one Anyone using it?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu QuoteMach QuoteMuckYu Ugh, I have yet another problem. I was printing a 3 hours print today. After about an hour in the printer stopped and the Error "MINTEMP" came up on the LCD display. Now the extruder only shows 0/0° ... Anything I can do here? Sounds like your thermistor has a bad connection somewhere. Check to make sure no wires are broken at the thermistor, and that it is secby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Quotemarkts Quotethebabymaker Quoteiamquestar QuoteUltiFix Printing from sd card is fantastic! I agree! It's great not to worry about messing up a print when using your computer. I do miss the feed back seen in Repitier, but I think the trade-off is worth it. Have you looked into octoprint? It essentially makes the printer wireless. I have a raspberry pi set up with octoprint wiby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker Quoteiamquestar QuoteUltiFix Printing from sd card is fantastic! I agree! It's great not to worry about messing up a print when using your computer. I do miss the feed back seen in Repitier, but I think the trade-off is worth it. Have you looked into octoprint? It essentially makes the printer wireless. I have a raspberry pi set up with octoprint with the camera module. Thby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix QuoteMach QuoteUltiFix WOW, O MY GOSH I lowered my stepper voltage for my x axis to .217 and it's so much quieter!!! I can't believe how much of a difference that made! And it's sooooooo smooth! I'm not quite sure what range it should be since I adjusted mine by sound, but I think .2 is abit low. You do not want it too low or it will skip steps and/or be more subject to losing precby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose I thought you might like to see a moment of pure awesomeness. I am printing a large spiral spring. Cura tries to avoid travel moves which cross the perimeters of the object, unlike Slic3r which takes straight lines and so gives more spider's webs. And it does travel moves as fast as possible. Wait until about 1:10 in the video. Wow! Hang on! lolby markts - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally stared the E3D-Lite6 assembly. It includes "ferrules" for "solder-free" assembly. That's a convenience thing, right? I'm comfortable soldering so there's downside soldering vs crimping with the ferrules, correct?by markts - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose I bought window glass from a local store. I think it's about 3mm, maybe slightly less. People say don't use 2mm as it may crack. If you want to go fancier, buy some borosilicate glass. I used some 8x10 picture frame glass from Home Depot and it worked fine. That is until my son bumped it when it was hot and it broke into some nasty fragments. I went with the (right sized) borosilby markts - Prusa i3 and variants