Quoteslippyr4 You're looking for M851 which changes that exact value. But you could just use different first layer height settings in the material profiles of your slicer. Hmm, guess I didn't realize what that meant... I always thought it was the thickness but now that I'm looking at it in the intended way I realize there's a layer thickness one too! Giving it a shot now.by Tenny - General
Hello Everyone, Not sure where to post this as it has elements from all over... Basic's: Printer i3 Prusa Clone All Aluminum Heated Bed E3D Titan, E3D V6 4mm Inductive Sensor OctoPrint Marlin #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.4 So basically as it is right now when I print something with TPU it's rock solid. No problems at all. It sticks to the bed well, the first layer is great. Now wheby Tenny - General
QuoteMopar99 question: does anyone season their Hotend's? like dab some olive oil on filament before they print? I did, no idea if it mattered or not. Edit: I have a E3D-V6by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteTenny So I think I figured out all my bed leveling issues, but despite all the work I've done on the printer in the past couple days... I'm running into the same issue as before. While it's printing, the Y Axis skips. The picture (below) is supposed to be a half sphere basically (with things sticking out the side, holes, etc). You can see it skipped twice, once near the bottoby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
So I think I figured out all my bed leveling issues, but despite all the work I've done on the printer in the past couple days... I'm running into the same issue as before. While it's printing, the Y Axis skips. The picture (below) is supposed to be a half sphere basically (with things sticking out the side, holes, etc). You can see it skipped twice, once near the bottom and then again near the tby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteTenny QuoteDaveA Check out the Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki at There is a section on auto bed leveling. If you're using Marlin firmware I believe you must have the X axis end stop on the left or the software will no behave correctly. So is it a bug or something? I mean X-homes correctly. I guess I'll probably have to try that as I have read that, but wasn't sure if that's jusby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA Check out the Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki at There is a section on auto bed leveling. If you're using Marlin firmware I believe you must have the X axis end stop on the left or the software will no behave correctly. So is it a bug or something? I mean X-homes correctly. I guess I'll probably have to try that as I have read that, but wasn't sure if that's just because of something elseby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
So I bought a proximity sensor ( LJ12A3-4-Z/AX NPN NC (because it's NPN NC I used: const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; )) and got it all wired up last night. For the most part it's working. I updated to the latest firmware (and I kept my X-AXIS on the right side). I did this in the firmware (basically these changes over stock: #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX #define X_HOME_DIR 1 It seems tby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, Long time... a lot has changed since I built my printer it seems. I have upgraded to a E3D Lite, which then broke and bought a generic E3D clone off Amazon to get me back running and it has worked well. Well over the past weekend I started having major issues with Y-Axis skipping. First 1cm or so of layers would be fine, then all of a sudden the print shifts back between a few mm toby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead QuoteTenny So I'm thinking about purchasing the E3D-V6 Lite for this now, but I have one major concern. Most of my prints have more zig-zag lines on them... Can you post a picture? Here's one that's a tad worse than most:by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
So I'm thinking about purchasing the E3D-V6 Lite for this now, but I have one major concern. Most of my prints have more zig-zag lines on them, and from what I've found online is that's usually due to material contamination (kind of like this: ) . While I have tried methods to fix this I don't think it is the problem. This also happens with brand new filament. I have been told to increase theby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Which guide again? Somewhere here? This one: It's the "official" one for this kit from my understanding.by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts QuoteTenny QuoteUncertainty Hello all, Got it working! How long does it take you guys to heat your glass bed? Mine take >25minutes from 20c to 100c. Ouch, mine takes about 10 minutes max to get to 100c. Are you sure you wired yoursk right? Details? Do you insulate the bed? Plain glass or something else? In an enclosure? I just laid a piece of cardboard on it while heatingby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Hello all, Got it working! How long does it take you guys to heat your glass bed? Mine take >25minutes from 20c to 100c. Ouch, mine takes about 10 minutes max to get to 100c. Are you sure you wired yours right?by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDevil Inc Ordered my E3D V6 hot end last night. Not to decide what style of extruder do I want to build it into. Bowden/Wades? I kind of like the Airtripper drives as they are direct drive so they are compatible with most of the parts in my MK7 extruder. I'm open to options and opinions. Curious why you didn't go with the lite version? I was looking at doing the lite version with this mountby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead The aluminum block should be easy to find on eBay. I just my e3d6Lite hotend in the mail yesterday. Can't wait to install it. Many people complain about the stock hotend in the acrylic thread, but I've gotten some great prints with it. Let us know how this goes. I've thought about upgrading to it but haven't decided.by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Quoteanimoose I see back right in step 8 of the config guide. Where did you see back left? I'm sorry! My bad - you're right - I'll edit my post for posterity. As I thought about it, it finally dawned on me that the limit switches are at the home positions. Duh. But if the Y limit switch is in the back QuoteClip the 3D Printed End Stop Mount to the rear of the printer on the riby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
How's everyone's prints doing? I am rather pleased with mine, this is better than I was ever able to get a printrbot plus dialed in... LG G Watch Stand So the stringy parts seem to be when it's making a far distance travel. I read retraction was one way to remove it but I clearly haven't got that aspect dialed in. I can deal with that though.by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadkow007 I have one question...is the board already flashed or do I need to flash it before I can use the printer? The documentation is not clear on this at all. If I do need to flash it...where can I get a Folgertech Marlin ZIP file? Or do all the changes need to be made by hand? (entered one at a time) I would be grateful for any help with this. Thanks I honestly did not try before I gotby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine didn't slide too well either at first. After use it's got much better.by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok I got it fixed. So if you keep the cables wired as they are in the manual this will fix it: Change the following in configuration.h #define INVERT_X_DIR true to #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define X_HOME_DIR -1 to #define X_HOME_DIR 1 With the printer off PHYSICALLY move the x-axis stopper to the left one set of pins (this makes it so it's the x max instead of x-min) Now if you are usingby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot In Repetier if you open Printer Setting and then the Printer Shape tab what values do you have for Bed Left and bed Front? 0 0 Ok I see in there I have x home as min, just changed it to max and it seems to be proper. Now I just need to figure out how to make it this way in Octoprintby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot Yep. Once again this is something the Folger manual gets wrong. Looks like they haven't fixed it in the manual for the new printer. Just flip the motor cable where it plugs into the RAMPS. You can also do it in firmware but this is easier. Turn off power to the board first. Yeah I tried this and it's still not working properly. It would just go the opposite way of the end stop. Stby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
I just realized all my prints are backwards as far as the x-axis. I think it was designed to have the limit switch on the right (when looking towards the front of the printer) as that stepper motor wire is backwards compared to the rest. Still though all prints are backwards which presents a problem... Not sure if I invert the x in the printer software will fix it? Don't really want to re-wire tby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Anyone have trouble tightening the SK8 screws to grab the rods? I cranked down on one and the rod still slid right through. Am I doing something wrong? How easy is it sliding? At first I forgot to tighten mine and it moved but after that I tightened it and no movement since.by Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Alright I replaced the board with a known good authentic one I had at work... and got everything up and working. Day 1: Arrival Day 1: 18 hours later (yes I went to sleep, and yes I did other stuff). First Print: Cube Third Print: Cube Let's not talk about that second print... Currently facing issues with the prints not being too "clean" and the first layer really doesn't put much of a laby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
Alright ran into my first big problem. Looking for advice now... I got the printer all up and running, I had yet to attempt a print. I tested all the features (heat, all axis's, etc) I set all the end switches and was working on leveling the bed. Was having some issues with the x-axis carriage/extrude (I guess is what its called) as it didn't want to stay level... it wanted to change as it wasby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants
I received my 2020 i3 yesterday and have completed the build for the most part. I have a few wires left to deal with, but overall it's mostly done. Found a few spots that I would change in the manual but for the most part it went smoothly. Thanks for making a great manual Dan. A few larger printers could have helped me in a few situations but I made it. So for the configuration aspect, should Iby Tenny - Prusa i3 and variants