Found this on Kickstarter today: Seems like it would be a good upgrade for the Migbot, thoughts?by CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx OK, sorry for the delay on the firmware, but both Marlin 1.1 large and small bed auto level configs are up on the repo, both are tested, work well and print centrally. All 1.1 firmware has EEPROM enabled, this means that those with Auto Level can set the Z offset with the following: Ax, thank you so much for this! I uploaded it to my Migbot, did a PID autotune, and quick e-step calibraby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic Quoteveaceonee Every time I try to connect my computer to the printer it keeps saying "NON GENUINE DEVICE DETECTED". It will not connect to the printer. How do i fix this? Stupid Windows 10.. And this is with doing a "have disk" manually loading drivers? Usually the Genuine stuff just has to do with the drivers not being signed, but you can force drivers with have disk. With Wiby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteprintrguruh I have temporarily used Tyraps to route and arrange the harness "loom" to make sure routing and clearances are good then I have used traditional spiral vinyl wire wrapping that is inexpensive, comes in several sizes and lengths to wrap the harness segments. It remains flexible and protects the harness. Make sure you check full functionality is satisfactory before you begin theby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm looking to re-run the wires for the stepper/hotend/fan/leveler as I noticed that during a print with some height to it that the current wire run sagged a bit and actually ran into the build (thankfully I caught it before it ruined the print) when the extruder head was close to the left side of the print bed. I had to take up some of the slack and tape the wires a bit, however this isnt a gooby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm SOS, have a quick question, as now my old prusa can't read any program and also have a cracking sound is it normal? anyone experience this before? is it because of problem with motherboard? as i'm able to move the axis no issue. Not reading programs how? Sd Card, USB? Where do you hear the "cracking" noise coming from?by CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee Is anyone else having with Windows 10? I knew I shouldnt have upgraded. I upgraded my laptop to Win10 and the only issue so far is there are no good drivers for my Intel graphics card yet. That seems to have affected Cura a bit where if I have multiple items loaded I can no longer select individual pieces to move them around. I believe its something to do with the color depth bby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone else get an email from someone named Caferlin from China TL Maker Electornics Co,.Limited promoting the site for 3d printers? Looks like they are now selling the Migbots under a different nameby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteJeandreCoetzer Hello I loaded my sd card that came with my Migbot, with the gcode of a part i want to print. When I insert the sd card in the printer it says "sd card loaded", but when i try to access the sd card it says no sd card on the lcd menu. What could be the problem? Have you tried removing it and putting it back in a time or two? Make sure its fully inserted as well. I had thisby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
With the company shutting down the only thing I could see as an issue going forward would be the Motherboard (and maybe the LCD?) as the motors, switches, etc are all commonly purchased items correct? Is there another MoBo that would be compatible with the firmware we have?by CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee Whenever I first turn power on I get this message on the LCD. What is happening and how can I fix it? Do a reset and it is fine. Check that your Thermistors are fully plugged into the motherboard and that they are securely fastened to the extruder head and hotbed. I had an issue with my extruder Thermistor throwing a MAXTEMP because it was a little loose and moving around; onby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
I would say the 1.5 layer height is WAY too big...I usually do my normal prints with .2 and ones I really need to be nice/strong at .1 - I don't think you'd ever want to go over .4by CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetkin QuoteUkemaxxer Not sure how reliable the sensor would be with a piece of glass that thick. Glass does not have any electromagnetic properties. However if you put 5mm of glass on top with a sensor that takes readings at 4mm you may have problems. I would also assume printing on a flat surface (glass), but measure a warped one (aluminum bed), could be problematic as well. I have not tby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUkemaxxer QuoteYakuza I have mine at 16 point auto level right nows with 9000mm/s probe speed. fun to watch Can I ask what settings you put in your config h file. I'm trying to get mine to work, but arduino says cant upload the file Edit, bloody printer. Yesterday, I tried numerous times to upload settings to make it auto level 16 times, no way would it accept the upload. Just tried exactlby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUkemaxxer Quotethisguyaves Hello all. I got one of these, and I got it to run manually very well. I was quite pleased. This is my 4th printer and I happily entered all parameters then sliced, and saved the gcode to the SD card given to me in the kit. I put the SD card in the printer, the screen flashes, and the printer says "Card inserted." I press the knob in and the last menu option, the Sby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
@Josh, Here is the pin out for the Proximity sensor: This would be looking down at the connector with the metal clips showing - Brown, Blue, Black Hope that helps!by CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey Josh, I've got the MKS version 1.3, but I'm assuming they are pretty close - my Proximity switch came pre-wired with the same plug end that the endstops have. I will check what color wires go where when I get home tonight. Once you have it wired you just plug it into the Z- Min port on the board which is the same one the z endstop should be currently in. Just remove the Z-axis endstop comby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Here's where I am at currently: Got fed up with my Z-endstop and bedlevling issues, I would get it leveled with the z-axis hommed, but when I'd start a print the zozzle would be too high - I'm sure this can be adjusted in the firmware, but it was doing my head in. I removed the Z-endstop and put the Autoleveler back on. With the X and Y endstop properly working and after modifying the start.gby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, Thanks for the input. The print bed is as level and the correct distance (using the sheet of paper trick) from the hotend all around as I can get it. I'm printing with the supplied PLA which is a translucent blue (I also have black I can switch to) - I tried lowering the hotend temp but the print came out even worse. I tried evetanlm's suggestion of raising the temp to 225 and actuaby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello all, New to the forum and 3d printing - purchased the Migbot recently and it arrived on Wednesday. Of course the assembly guide and Cura/etc was on the SD but corrupted. I ended up here while searching for the uncorrupted files and with those I was able to successfully assemble the printer and wire the mobo/power supply. Since then it's been a hell of a frustrating couple of days tryingby CAlleman - Prusa i3 and variants