I have orange and purple JustPLA. I'm tempted to unroll the orange one to see if it has any junk in it!!!by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
When ordered my printer, I ordered a spool of yellow PLA and a spool of black ABS from Folger Tech. I used the PLA since I got the printer. I went through about half the spool with only 1 PTFE tube jam I was able to basically force through. A few weeks ago I decided to play with with ABS in preparation to printing upgraded parts for the printer. Over the weekend, I got my 1st bad nozzle clog withby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Hopefuly not, but from what most of us have experienced, that's probably the caseby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I can barely get mine to get to 100 degrees, and that's with a glass insulator on top, a crdboard, and 15 to 20 minutes of heating. You added a heat sink to your bed, so I'm thinking its not going to work I have been toying with the idea of making my own heatbed using NiChrome or Kanthal A1 @ 110VAC going through a 12V relay. But, I have to do A LOT of research 1st. It would be nice if I can getby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
So I finally was able to print the donut fan shroud (or parts of it) with ABS. It took a lot of test prints and redesigns, but I think I finally got it.I haven't had time to try printing the full part, but I'm hoping I will this weekend. I did post it on Thingiverse if someone wants to give it a go Here are some pictures of how it mounts and what it looks like. More on Thingiverse.by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
That's exactly how you print from the LCD and an SD card! I'm assuming you get the message after you select your file. I found this post that talks about an issue with M109 and M190 commands. Its old, but apparently the bug may still be there... Not sure if it would help though! If you're not on it ,maybe try flashing to the latest firmware? Also, if Repetier Host (or whatever you use) is connecby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
The nice thing about this setup is that the arms slide on the rail without coming off. The shims prevent them from tilting side to side and front to back, and you can't pull them up. So all I have to do is undo one nut, slide the arm a bit, then pull the rod out enough to get the cone out, then the spool is out. Then reverse to install the new spool... not too bad IMO!by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I just posted a top mount spool holder on Thingiverse. If anyone needs cone for a different size bearing, just let me know and I careate a new one for it. More info about the holder on Thingiverse.by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been printing PLA on glass with purple glue stick without the heat bed. I cut my startup time by 5 to 7 minutes since I don't have to wait on the heat bed to warm up. And the prints stick very well. I've only tried Folger Tech PLA so far. I do have Folger Tech ABS, and Hatchbox PLA and ABS to try. I may try the Folger Tech ABS tonight. What bed temp do you think I should start with for theby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson Has anyone added a 2nd fan to be used as a PLA print cooling fan? I know someone designed a fan diverter to divert some of the air that blows on the heat sink for the hot end, but would it be possible to just add another fan so that you don't have to take off the diverter every time you want to print ABS? I've been working on a dual fan design based on this, that blows air 360 degrby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
So I posted earlier about an issue I was having with the printer just stopping mid print for no apparent reason. After a lot of research and trying a couple of things I came to the conclusion that it must be noise on the 8ft USB cable I'm using (2 ft extension and 6 ft cable). Since I can't move the printer any closer to the computer, I opted to print from an SD card using the LCD controller. Aftby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I was using 210C/70C then went to 195C/70C for all layer thicknesses, including 0.1mm and 0.05mm, with no sticking issues. I printed and installed this fan shroud, and since then, I started having sticking issues. I guess the plastic was cooling too fast before it got to the glass! I did fix it manually though... At the start of the print, I change the speed to 50% until the 1st layer is done, thby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I was toying around with lower temps for PLA last night. I had a somewhat complex part to print as a "how fine can I get" test, and I was having issues printing it. It had lots small details and needed lots of supports that were not supporting! I started with 0.05mm layer thickness, and went up to 0.1 with the same results. I was finally able to print a decent one after dropping the temp to 195.by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
I set X and E to 0.165V, Z to 0.325V, and Y to 0.610V After 36 minutes of a 40 minute print, the only motor that was slightly warm to the touch was the extruder motor. X was barely warm, I couldn't believe it! And no skipping eitherby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Markts, the document is called Tuning your A4988 Stepper Driver.pdf found on the google drive share for the printer here.by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Can you post a pointer to this tuning guide? I suspect you're mistaken in terms of doubling the voltage because you have two motors (though I may also be wrong). You want the same voltage to each motor and I have to believe they are wired in parallel, not series. True the current would be twice a single motor, but that would be at original 0.160v. I think doubling the voltage isby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteplrmaker7 Maybe I am reading this wrong but according to the tuning guide - the A4988's should be set to .280v? I have mine all set to .280v and all seem fine - except the stepper motor on the X axis gets very hot. The drivers, however, stay cool. Thoughts??? I could be totally wrong, and feel free to correct me, but here's what I came up with... I looked at the tuning guide, and the motoby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
So, I lowered the voltages on X, Z and E to 0.350V and Y to 0.550V (or close to that) as animoose posted earlier. No more skipping, but I am keeping the fan QuoteUnshockable QuoteJoeH Unshockable, try switching the Home X end stop in Repetier to max instead of min... it's under Printer Settings --> Printer Shape. It was late last night when I got it working, and I forgot I did that. If I chaby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Adding a fan to blow accross the drivers fixed the thermal shutdown issue. I'll try to lower the voltages and see if that works. I'll probably still keep the fan since it can't hurtby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
k.fernandes44, what happens when you set layer height to .2mm? what are you seeing? I set mine to .2mm from the start and it worked fine!by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Unshockable, try switching the Home X end stop in Repetier to max instead of min... it's under Printer Settings --> Printer Shape. It was late last night when I got it working, and I forgot I did that. If I change it to min, which is default, the printer behaves exactly as in your video. My next issue is the Y axis keeps "skipping" after about 10 minutes of printing. I think the driver is getby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
First, thank you Agedashi and markts for your help. My issue is fixed, and I'm able to successfully print k.fernandes44, here is what I had to do to get it working... X_axis end stop mounted on the right side, just like in the manual. Configuration.H settings: line 240 - #define INVERT_X_DIR true line 249 - #define X_HOME_DIR 1 Pins.H settings: line 327 - #define X_MIN_PIN 2by JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
lol, good to see someone else is sharing my pain I'm at work, so I can't do it now, but I'm going to try to disable max endstops in configuration.h with #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS. I'll also try playing with endstop direction settings. Currently they are set as follows: #define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 I'll try it with #define X_HOME_DIR -1. Not sure if it willby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
So I finished assembling the printer LATE last night. Tonight, I followed the config guide, and everything went fine till I got to step 8... homing the X and Y Axis. The Y axis homed fine, but the X did not. Every time I click home X, it only moves about 10 mm (didn't measure). I can keep clicking home till it get to the limit switch. When it gets to the limit switch and triggers it, it won't movby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey guys, I ordered a Folger Tech 2020 i3 Prusa from ebay last Thursday, along with 2 spools of filament. The seller is asidewinderinc, I was just wondering if this is Folger tech's ebay store? or if they are affiliated in some way? The reason I ask is I'm getting a little anxious/impatient... According to ebay, I'm supposed to get the spools tomorrow, and the printer on Thursday. The printer hby JoeH - Prusa i3 and variants