AccidentalWisdom, Looks like 1. Your Z-Gap is way too high. The reason your first layer seems to coming out fine is probably due to the "First Layer Height" is "squishing" the print a lot. However, on the second and subsequent layers, it goes back to 100%... and there is too much separation between your layers. 2. You are printing relatively slow. Which, in general would not be a terribleby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
gwc2795 , most SD cards up to 4GB should work fine. But they MUST be Formatted as FATby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
We also had to re-solder the terminals on ALL THREE (X,Y and Z) Limit Micro-switches. Then we coated them with a silicone paste and made sure they DON'T MOVE.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
gatorNic, I mentioned the warped bed because anytime the head gets too far off the bed, the filament can pour our and sometimes "curls" up and attaches to the print head. Little by little the blob gets bigger.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
veaceonee , We've seen this with two scenarios, assuming that you have Leveled properly; 1. The print bed is warped and/or 2. The Z-Gap is too high. It helps a lot if you submit pictures. Just FYI, printing form the SD is way more accurate than via USB. Sometimes, the USB connection can have even minor delays that can throw the printer way off track.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
veaceonee, has anyone been able to print this extruder frame part for you? If not, I can get one done for you.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
evetanlm, What material are you printing with? Is it PLA or ABS? Which "slicer" are you using? Most of the time, the lifting of a print is because you; 1. Don't have the print bed properly "Leveled". In this case, you have to check using a piece of regular bond paper on all four corners and in the center. The paper must scrape the print head very lightly. Don't assume that because youby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
veaceonee, I believe the reason it broke was that it was printed standing up. You can see how it split at the layers. This part is 100 times stronger if you print it lying down, with the large flat side facing the print plate. Also, make sure you use the proper temperature and print it at 200um. I attached a version we modified to make feeding the filament easier. You will need to enable suby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
The SD Card that came with the Migbot always gave us trouble. We currently use generic PNY and Sandisk SD cards and have not any any more trouble.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
The Motherboard is an MKS BASE V1.3... so I would assume that something like this v1.4 should work too. And yes, all the parts should be readily available too.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
+Gatornic: We also noticed that the offsets for the probe were way off. We were also annoyed at how long it took to Auto-Level. This is how we have the Leveling section set now. It seems to work quite well now and is way master. We have the LARGE BED... so please keep this in mind for the "// set the rectangle in which to probe" section. //============================= Bed Auto Leveling ===by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, the knob is the "infinity" type. It just turns forever.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
veaceonee, we have ours plugged into a Surge Protector, which is plugged into a UPS (in case power fails). We turn the surge protector off when the printer is not in use.by 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
To "wallygator801" Sounds like Windows doing it's thing again! This might work for you: 1. Try to uninstall and remove the drivers from the device manager. 2. Search for hardware changes. 3. Select the driver manually using the "Have disk" option. 4. Navigate to the "...\Migbot-i3 CD guide assemble(L)\Driver\CDM v2.08.28 Certified" directory 5. Choose the "ftdibus" driver. 6. Then, follow tby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you all again. Please forgive my ignorance. Yes, I guess it is a Thermistor, not an LED. ; ) Interestingly enough, when I control the machine manually, the Proximity Sensor LED lights up when it's supposed to. But when I try to print one of our files, it starts way above the Print Bed. However, I have a horrible feeling that my problem is that I am trying to print with x3g files creatby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello, Thank you all so much for all the amazing information you have posted here. We just put together or Migbot Ultra Prusa i3 Diy Kit WITH the AutoLeveling Option (Proximity Sensor) from 3D Printers Online. This is the first time we have ever put together a 3D Printer. It took us roughly 4 hours to put together. It has the "MKS Base v1.3" Motherboard. In general, everything seems to be wby 3DST - Prusa i3 and variants