Bin using Ramps 1.4 and was working great. Wanted to change to 32 bit and obtained Due/Radds. Was using DVR8825 with no problem. Moved everything over to the Radds. Z axis worked but no X and Y movement. Changed steps to no avail. Finally put 4988 back in and x and y started to move and adjusted just fine. With only one DVR8825 in the x and y moved diag. Seems I can't use DVR8825 on my printer. Aby Putzer - General
No trouble with Pet-G at 245 degrees with bed temp at 70 degrees. I use Makergeeks brand which seems to be the best over others. They now have a higher temp PLA which I extrude at 240 degrees with o degrees on bed. Works a lot better than Pet-G. Also can be annealed to make the part stronger.by Putzer - Reprappers
The carbon is burned off. C + O2 = co2.by Putzer - General
Heat the nozzle with a propane torch until red hot. Make sure it is clean with nozzle cleaning wire.by Putzer - General
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER . This is usually the line you use for 2004 displays. Enable by removing //.by Putzer - Reprappers
There are different ways to get full travel. I just add neg offsets to get travel needed. I just add it to the firm ware. Example -30 to 200 for my y axis.by Putzer - Reprappers
AccidentalWisdom What version of Windows? Had trouble installing on Win 10. Am using on Win 7. Win 10 has driver install issues. There is a work around but am too lazy to do it.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I print PetG at 245 degrees with bed temp of 70. Retraction of 2 and no brim, Hair spray on blue tape with no warping. Speed at 30 with no stringing. No fan either.by Putzer - General
Seems like you got a 24v bed. Bed resistance for a 12v bed should be around 1.5 or so.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
If it has only two solder pads it is likely a 12 or a 24v head bed. Measure the ohms. Should be about 1.5 for 12v and 3 for 24v. According to the picture it doesn't look like a dual volt heat bed.by Putzer - Printing
I forgot where I found my setup. I use a IRF4905 mounted on a used microprocessor with fan on a 12 x 12 silicon heat bed with a 10k resistor. Heats to 100 in about 3 to 4 min. Got 10 for about 1.40 US.by Putzer - General
elkayem The picture is wrong. I have the same 8m from Banggood with 2mm pitch. Nothing like the picture shone. They only move 2mm per rev, not 8mm.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
elkayem A way to look at it. The rods you refer to at Banggood has a 2mm pitch (2mm travel for one revolution. Common stepper motors have 1.8 degree per step meaning 200 steps per revolution. 200 into 2mm gives you .01 mm per step.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
elkayem The m8 lead screws are 8mm in diameter not 8mm travel distance in one rotation.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I only have one at the heat sink. Not at the heater block.by Putzer - Printing
I screw the heat break just even with the inside of the extruder. Tighten the nut against the extruder (heat sink), not the heat block. then tighten the nozzle against the heat block and the back off half a turn. Tighten the heat break against the heat block. Then tighten the nozzle against the heat block (you are really tightening against the heat break). Then retighten nozzle with heat block isby Putzer - Printing
Disable steppers right after the shift. See if there is binding on your axis. Happen to me when the printer got hot and frame expanded creating the belt becoming too tight.by Putzer - Printing
I believe you double the steps in the firmware and put the jumpers back in.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
I had the same problem. I built a printer with a 12 x 12 bed and the y belt path is really long. I tighten the belt and had y skipping one in a while. Loosen the belt and the same thing happen Now I have the belt set just right and no problems. Could also be voltage on driver.by Putzer - Printing
What percent isopropyl alcohol? I use 91 percent with no problem.by Putzer - Printing
Received 20 sets of wheels for 32$ total. Includes wheel, 2 bearings, washer, shim, shaft and lock nut a set. 1.60$ per set.by Putzer - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I heard some slicer versions have problems with this.by Putzer - Printing
Beware of two switching power supplies. They can be out of phase with each other. Need a scope to determine that. Had people try to connect to power supplies together and blew out both.by Putzer - Reprappers
D9 is for second extruder. Extruder fan is connected directly to 12 volt power.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Look like loose belt to me. Put finger on drive to see how warm it is. Check voltage on driver. Maybe it needs to be increased. Driver gone bad?by Putzer - Reprappers
No problem with tinned wires with over 50 years experience. If you really worry about tinned wires solder term on the end. Crimped wires come loose.by Putzer - Controllers
Usually you don't use a fan printing with ABS.by Putzer - Printing
I had a heater term melt. Solved the problem by tinning the stranded wires with solder and be sure the term are really tight.by Putzer - Controllers
Doesn't matter about the heater wires from the hot end being both red. Can be connected either way. You need to ohm the power input terminals of PCB for a short. You do probably have a short. I the power supply should have a fuse which is probably blown.by Putzer - Prusa i3 and variants
Something is wrong in your statement. Reaches 230 but drops to 230.by Putzer - Printing