Should be easy enough to do, but you need more information adding. Does the channel go all the way through the object, and you need to add the positions from the edges for the holesby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterejaak i was wondering about the differences . and i just printed new right and left x mounts in abs too. drat! what about the y axis pulley? pictures show it as larger than what is on the migbot. i planned to design a tensioner for this.are the x axis smooth rods the same distance from each other so i can use the same print carriage? because i just did a redesign for one that holds my new vby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterejaak in my case, i run the cooling fan for the printed layers with ABS. when i didn't, the print would go all limp and quickly separate from the glass bed. i run 230-110 btw. on another note, i've noticed talk about the migbot frame being somewhat "not rigid" and i totally agree. i can grab the y axis frame and move it side to side ..easily. all my bolts, screws and nuts are tight..veryby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteprintrguruh Ukemaxxer, Thank you for getting back.. All detail is important and will be absorbed.. I did down load and put on CD the indicated file(s) and come to find out that it seems the Zip title and size matches the one I pulled down the other evening when I also pulled in and re digested all from Arduino.cc again. Screenshots would be the golden ticket for sure. You mentioned beiby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteprintrguruh UKEMAXXER, Thank you for your reply!.. Although there was nothing in the Carton and I had to get the info from Migbot's support person, who is now no longer available, the bed default value was 200X200. And, it did have optional support for multiple extruders. Yes... regarding the flashing blue lights when connection is made and when I send to the printer..... I did not see anby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteprintrguruh It appears I have taken two giant steps back from having the Migbot print a test cube with a fully functional LCD panel to a comatose printer with an LCD Screen with 2 lines of 16 squares and no readout after having attempted to reload an edited H file that was initially posted as Migbot/Marlin100% valid. And things were going so well! I Would first ask the question can I useby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
I too have the Orballo steel frame, I ordered the rods as well, but wish I hadn't bothered as they are garbage. My migbot rods are much better, I'm hoping they will fit. I already have lead screws on the migbot, so wanted to use those instead of the 5mm threaded rods. I have had to print new x ends as the migbot ones have the lead screw and smooth rod offset instead of being inline in the x direby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePutzer an't get the print to the center of the bed. Always goes to the left front no matter what coordinates I change. See my post on page 11, those settings worked great for mine.by Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterejaak i'm definitely interested in the repetier firmware. i scanned their online config tool just to see the layout and i like the features it has. its a little intense and although i could configure some of the settings going by my marlin configuration.h file, a lot of it is over my head at the moment. maybe someone with a migbot can come up with a general configuration.h file for repetierby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejbehan FYI, no more Migbot! They closed up shop and took there customer support with them. Here is the response from 3dprintersonlinestore; "We understand that only for the customers we are here. Unfortunately Migbot shutdown the factory due to high competition and big loss. Only they are responsible for after sales support." Steve Nelson Sales Consultant 3D Printers Online Retail Store -by Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
I think its more a support issue. With Marlin, we are each others support. I have emailed the Migbot suppliers numerous times, and the only way they ever got back to me was when I opened a Paypal dispute. They responded instantly then! Got what I wanted sorted, took ages for them to send me missing parts, now, they are completely ignoring me. I have requested what I need to convert my printer toby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
In the latest version of Cura, they have even removed the option to choose a Reprap type printer. There are only options for the various Ultimakers. I'm game to try the Repetier firmware, I have just downloaded the latest Repetier Host, printer is currently doing a job though, so config will have to wait. The wizard is currently at the point it wants to connect to the printer. Once this print isby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok, so up to now I have only been printing small objects, so the bed centering issue which we are all having hasn't been an issue. Today, I decided it was time to sort it out. I tried the values from earlier in this post, those gave me a print roughly centred on the X axis, but way off to the rear on the Y I am probing 36 points due to the "special quality" bed they sent me. To get my prints toby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRRuser Makes sense. Acrylic and heat don't mix, certainly not long term. Would love black metal options for all the i3 printers. Well I bit the bullet and ordered the Orballo Printing P3steel frame. Link below. Just hope now all my Migbot parts fit it without too much messing about. Looks the dogs, 3mm black powder coated frame. Only problem, no lcd mount. The Migbot is incorporated in theby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone converted from acrylic to steel. I,m thinking of getting the P3steel frame off ebay to convert my Migbot. Looks like it uses the same mountings and will just be a straight swap.by Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterumjar86 QuoteUkemaxxer Quoteveaceonee QuoteUkemaxxer Quoteveaceonee My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better. What parameters did you use for PID autotune. I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect inby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee If you look at the trim pots you will see 3 contacts (2 on the bottom, one on top). Positive lead to single contact - negative lead to usb connector housing. I am printing at 210C, 40 on the bed with blue tape on a raft. Cheers. I'll have a look at mine tomorowby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee QuoteUkemaxxer Quoteveaceonee My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better. What parameters did you use for PID autotune. I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface. Also did you jby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
I have seen these frames on ebay, very tempted. Would they be a direct swap out for the current frames in my Migbot Prusa I3. Very similat looking frame, and the plastic parts look the same as the P3Steel as wellby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee My filament is 1.67-1.69. Did the PID autotune, and turned down the stepper pot Voltages and it is getting much better. What parameters did you use for PID autotune. I used M303 E0 S200 C8, but every time it fails with temperature too high M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 This is what is echoed from the printer when I connect in Pronterface. Also did you just adjust the stepper pots byby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone have the latest version of the Migbot i3, multi filament capable. I've tried getting info out of Leo and Steve, I may as well just bang my head against a wall! I e also asked them both about the aluminium filament drive upgrade, again, they just ignore emails.by Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcabrer For those of you struggling with bed leveling, some advixe. Auto Bed Leveling is not a feature. It is a crutch. Better to address the root cause of the problem, and either replace the bed, or resurface it to be flat. You can do this by adding a sheet of glass of thickness between 3 and 5mm. Use silicone adhesive against the edges, but not under the glass. Once you have a flat surfacby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteCAlleman QuoteUkemaxxer QuoteYakuza I have mine at 16 point auto level right nows with 9000mm/s probe speed. fun to watch Can I ask what settings you put in your config h file. I'm trying to get mine to work, but arduino says cant upload the file Edit, bloody printer. Yesterday, I tried numerous times to upload settings to make it auto level 16 times, no way would it accept the upload. Jusby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethisguyaves Hello all. I got one of these, and I got it to run manually very well. I was quite pleased. This is my 4th printer and I happily entered all parameters then sliced, and saved the gcode to the SD card given to me in the kit. I put the SD card in the printer, the screen flashes, and the printer says "Card inserted." I press the knob in and the last menu option, the SD card menu, saby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYakuza I have mine at 16 point auto level right nows with 9000mm/s probe speed. fun to watch Can I ask what settings you put in your config h file. I'm trying to get mine to work, but arduino says cant upload the file Edit, bloody printer. Yesterday, I tried numerous times to upload settings to make it auto level 16 times, no way would it accept the upload. Just tried exactly the same settby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone increased their auto levelling probe points to more than 9, say 12 points. My bed has a dip in it, and its not picked up by the current probing pointsby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewallygator801 @ Ukemaxxer / 3DST Thanks for the response. I have tried to manually install the driver many times as 3DST suggested, but I don't see a port to update the driver with? Also, where do you find the "allow windows to manage power on this device" check box? THANKS. If you go to your Device Manager screen, expand the Universal Serial Bus Controllers tab Then double click one ofby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewallygator801 Hey guys, First of all, I am new to actually owning a 3D Printer but have been reading up on them for a while now so I understand most of the lingo. I have fully assembled the Migbot and using the LCD controls everything seems to be working. The problem I am having is getting the driver installed. No matter what I try it will not install. I tried the one provided on the SDby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesteaneb QuoteUkemaxxer Quotemagiske @Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good. It was more just to keep a backup of the original in case I needed to reinstall it. I've been sent some later code from a migbot contact in Canada. Uke, are you able to upload the new version? Wouby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemagiske @Ukemaxxer I belive that dumping the FW is a bit overkill since it's = Marlin. And as long as you keep an updated Configuration.h, you should always be good. It was more just to keep a backup of the original in case I needed to reinstall it. I've been sent some later code from a migbot contact in Canada. The guy says trust me, once it's installed, you'll not want to go back. I've noby Ukemaxxer - Prusa i3 and variants