For those of you who have x&y belt tensioners, what do you use? For my X-axis I use I need something for my Y-axis. I found this , but I do not like the design. Also, without changing the Z-threaded rods, what would you all recommend for reducing backlash? I was thinking of replacing the nut with a long nut...by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesethmo I am getting some odd lines in my print and it seems as though my extruder is not smooth(stock extruder/hot end). In my other printers, my extruder turns at a smooth consistent pace when doing infill or long perimeters. With my Folger Tech, it looks jerky. What should the voltage be on the stepper driver pots? I tried adjusting them, but it did not seem to help. I am running therby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe BTW: Are running a Servo/Micro Switch setup or Proximity Sensor for your auto leveling? If it's a servo/micro setup do you mind sharing you config-h file? Thanks, Sonny I'm using the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX (NPN-type) 8mm inductive sensor; with a layer of aluminum foil between my glass bed and the heating platform.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally getting some decent prints. PLA 205/55; 50mm/sec; 0% infill Upgrades: X belt tensioner & auto leveling Photo #1 Photo #2 Photo #3by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
You may be inverting your z axis or you may have forgotten to disable your max endstops. Can you upload your conf?by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
What's the Z-raise before homing in the conf file set at? Good luck.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Perfect, I just changed the wiring and now I'm getting 7.4VDC, hopefully that's low enough to work properly... Thanks so much for the help!!! You're welcome, I'm glad that was it. Having 7.4volts leads me to believe that your 10k and 15k are swapped, from your original picture they looked fine. Double check that your 10k is the one connecting the blue and black. Use your multimeby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteUncertainty Quotesonnylowe Help!!! I ordered a new Proximity Sensor, I got the orange one because I read it did not have to be modified like the blue one. However, when I measured the output voltage while triggered I got 12VDC instead of the recommended 5VDC. I did the Tom's modification (two resistors - 10K/15K, just like my old blue one) but the output voltage remained at 1by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe Help!!! I ordered a new Proximity Sensor, I got the orange one because I read it did not have to be modified like the blue one. However, when I measured the output voltage while triggered I got 12VDC instead of the recommended 5VDC. I did the Tom's modification (two resistors - 10K/15K, just like my old blue one) but the output voltage remained at 12VDC...WTF!?!? I checked and rby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelemgandi Holy Cow. This thread is now 85 pages long. Perhaps it's time to make it into a wiki or an email list? I'm trying to keep up as I build my FolgerTech, but this is really unwieldy. Agreed! Or Maybe it's own sub-forum. With stickies?by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Very strange... and concerning.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebruceleroy Hello all!! Just got my printer together and have had several successful prints. The problem that I am having is that every time I change a setting in Slic3r the heated bed will remain on during prints. It comes on and heats properly but then it will not turn of once the printing starts. Only solution that i have found is to re-flash the arduino board and re-launch repetier softwby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotepeeejayz Been trying to get ABS to print right, got PLA working perfect, but I'm having big problems with lifting. Do people remove there print cooling fan on ABS? I can get my bed to 100degrees and hold it there. I'm using kapton take on the bed and the first layers stick perfect until it lifts. I've had luck with ABS slurry/juice. For Folgertech-Black-ABS filament I'm having success wiby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow Note that this circuit or the circuit that TheRippa used (optocoupler based) are assuming the sensor is PNP type. The one I am using is the LJ18A3-8-Z/BX NPN type 8mm inductive sensor. For those of you not too familiar with electronics, you would need a slightly different circuit. Here's a useful picture showing the difference.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteUncertainty Quotetherippa QuoteUncertainty I got my inductive sensor and hooked it all up and changed my conf file as per Tom's guide on youtube and the instructable. I am using TheRippa's Marlin firmware. As a z-end stop it works fantastically, no problems there. But when I run G29 (auto bed level routine) then the extruder moves until it hits the X or Y-endstop and then nothby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteUncertainty I got my inductive sensor and hooked it all up and changed my conf file as per Tom's guide on youtube and the instructable. I am using TheRippa's Marlin firmware. As a z-end stop it works fantastically, no problems there. But when I run G29 (auto bed level routine) then the extruder moves until it hits the X or Y-endstop and then nothing (it's supposed to probe 4 pby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
I got my inductive sensor and hooked it all up and changed my conf file as per Tom's guide on youtube and the instructable. I am using TheRippa's Marlin firmware. As a z-end stop it works fantastically, no problems there. But when I run G29 (auto bed level routine) then the extruder moves until it hits the X or Y-endstop and then nothing (it's supposed to probe 4 points)... I've attached the loby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you figure this problem out?by Uncertainty - General
QuoteSmuggler17 QuoteUncertainty I feel like I have my prints mirrored. My Y-endstop is a "max" and it is located at 200mm at the back of the printer. I have found this drawing online, do people agree with this? Also could you post your lines from Configuration.h where the endstops, direction and invert are defined? Thanks If your Y endstop is at the back of your kit then it is in the "min"by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
I feel like I have my prints mirrored. My Y-endstop is a "max" and it is located at 200mm at the back of the printer. I have found this drawing online, do people agree with this? Also could you post your lines from Configuration.h where the endstops, direction and invert are defined? Thanksby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
I figured it out! I needed to install the NVIDIA driver (legacy in my case) for my graphics card! Probably due to the openGL rendering...by Uncertainty - Repetier
Quotepeeejayz Hey all, Got my printer all set-up over the weekend, its been great fun and still getting the calibration right. But I have an annoying rattle(?) from the Y axis bed. It only really does it on long and fast movements - see this video: I thought it was from the side with only a single bearing as it seemed to mainly come from that side. I also re adjusted the smooth rods. I alsoby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I was running 0.95 for a few months and this week I decided to upgrade my OS and at the same time install the newest version of repetierHost v1.6.0. I was running Linux Mint and I upgraded to a new version of Mint. When I run configureFirst then try to open repetierHost I get the GUI, but it is unusable. I can't even move the window around the screen. I'm running the latest mono. I getby Uncertainty - Repetier
Do you guys keep the fan on 100% when printing? Even with ABS? I was keeping it off because I heard that abs prefers no fan.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, Last time I posted on this thread I was probably on page 10 or so. I had built the printer successfully and then didn't really use it. I hooked everything back up a couple days ago and started printing a whole bunch of tests and cubes. I notice that my print surface gets rough and has some gaps on the infill. I could be wrong but it seems to do this when the machine is getting hot. Theby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts QuoteUncertainty I'm back to printing at 230c (abs)/ bed 110->105c with great results. Extruder motor gets hella hot though, I'm worried it will warp the carriage. My Vref is at 0.38 but I fear going any lower due to skipping. Interesting! I was having problems with the extruder clicking and I figured the temperature wasn't high enough (also ABS). Someone suggested LOWERING theby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm back to printing at 230c (abs)/ bed 110->105c with great results. Extruder motor gets hella hot though, I'm worried it will warp the carriage. My Vref is at 0.38 but I fear going any lower due to skipping.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson oh frick, just kidding, duh moment. I didn't have the power supply plugged back in. I plugged the power supply in and now I can move the z axis in both directions and the y and x is one direction (but not the other). I'm curious. Can you look at the voltage regulator on the arduino? Does it look cracked? It is very likely this is what went if it is still functional?by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson Thanks Animoose, the only symptom I noticed in my limited testing last night was that before the pop and smoke the z axis was moving both directions, x and y would move but only one direction. After the pop and smoke nothing was responsive. I will test the arduino like you mentioned tonight. @uncertainty I was adjusting the Vrefs with both the power supply connected to the wall anby Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotego_gn A quick question : I may not have access to a soldering iron until next week. Is it possible to skip the heated bed soldering step and continue further? I know that PLA doesn't require a heated bed. Can I do the soldering later without needing to disassemble too much? It can wait. It just sits on top so it can be installed later.by Uncertainty - Prusa i3 and variants