Been messing with it for a week now. No matter what I try, I cannot get it to not be in a not triggered state. I'm about to give up on these things and go back to a good reliable sensor. Cannot even get the Z axis to move because it says G28 Z Forbidden. It is hooked to a MKS Base 1.4 board and has 4.95v input.by veaceonee - General
I can't home Z. It says G28 Z Forbidden on the LCD. M119 returns a triggered on the z, even if the blue light is not on.by veaceonee - General
I just hooked up my piezo board. Blue light stays on at all times, red light never comes on. No matter what the VR2 is turned to blue light stays on. Bump the hot end, the blue will flicker. Piezo disc reads 0v when not triggered and does climb as it is pushed on. I disconnect the piezo disc and the blue light goes out, but still no red light. It is hooked up per the instructions. This is bby veaceonee - General
I think my board is fried. I finally got it wired up enough to test it. Powered it on, and it got super hot and my LCD turned off. No LEDs on, no nothing. It is wired as printed on the board (V+ SIG GND). I don't know whats going on. Maybe its my fault, not sure. Any suggestions? TIAby veaceonee - General
I got my Migbot I3 Upgraded to a E3D v6 Full Hotend. It is printing like crap, and I don't know why. I had a Lite6 on it that printed beautifully (until I upgraded to the v6). I have been trying for over a month on this thing with all kinds of different settings,various infills, flow percentages (ranging from 100-150%, top/bottom thicknesses, Shell thicknesses, but to no avail. Anyone have anby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
So my Migbot I3 had a massive failure of a print. Wife woke up to a big smoldering plastic mass being pushed around the print bed. Anyway, I am using it as an excuse to upgrade from a Lite6 to a v6 hotend . I want to do the thermocouple upgrade ( Uses this adapter board ) so I can start printing with more than just the basics, but don't know how to hook up/configure the adapter board to the MKS Bby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
So my printer had a massive failure of a print. Wife woke up to a big smoldering plastic mass being pushed around the print bed. Anyway, I am using it as an excuse to upgrade from a Lite6 to a v6 hotend . I want to do the thermocouple upgrade ( which uses this adpater board ) but don't know how to hook up/configure the adapter board to the MKS Base 1.3 board. All online references are for RAMby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick Q- Anyone have any experience with a BLTouch Sensor (Like this one)? Looks like it would be ideal for people with non-metallic build plates.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting thing happening. As it prints, the layers it just lays down is then smashed b the sensor in the back, knocking the print away. What is happening? There is a nice gap between the bottom of the nozzle and the sensor. Am I missing something? Thanx in advance.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx QuoteveaceoneeIm trying to print this chess set in ABS for someone. It prints good until it gets to the top of the piece. can anyone shed some light as to what is going on? why does it print fine, then get all melty at the top? How can I fix this? Temps are 230 on the Hotend..110 on the bed. Infill 25% You have 3 choices, run cooling (Good ABS can take it) for the top, Lower the temperaby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Im trying to print this chess set in ABS for someone. It prints good until it gets to the top of the piece. can anyone shed some light as to what is going on? why does it print fine, then get all melty at the top? How can I fix this? Temps are 230 on the Hotend..110 on the bed. Infill 25% EDIT- I have attached the stl if anyone wants to try (its a quick little print). Maybe its a file issby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
When I did mine, I did the 1.1 upgrade to the firmware. The only setting I touched was PID tuning and the Hotend thermocouple type. It works awesomely.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Got the printer running, and it working awesomely. Been looking into printing with ABS and came across this video. ABS Tutorial At 2:47-ish he says to just use Kapton tape with window cleaner for bed adhesion. Never heard of that, does it really work? Are all his other tips sound? Just looking for clarification on this. Thanx in advance.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Backed the Voltages down to 0.8. A lot quieter. I was just worried of the extra mass on the "DD Mount" from the stock Mk8. I will go Bowden maybe eventually possibly. The lead screws look like that because of the lubrication capturing all the dirt in the air when it moves around. I use an aircraft grade lubricant on those, seems to work very well.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx On my FB2020s I use it and it makes a hell of a difference. Just need to find the cash for 3 blocks and socks, well worth it. Firmware depends on the mount you use. I am using your mount you have on Thingiverse (the one with a fan on each side). It is impressive looking. (Note: I wasn't done wiring when the pic was taken, and the large fan goes on the side to cool the board) I adjuby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Don't mean to hijack, but related.. Does anyone make these large kits WITHOUT the electronics?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks. Didn't know what they were called.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
I am putting together an E3D Lite Hotend end for my Migbot. It has an MKS Base 1.4 borad, and I need to conver the wiring connector for the hot end thermocouple to fit the tiny MKS connector. The one that it has for the stock hot end has bad rimps and is coming apart. Anyone know what kind of connector I need to make the connection? the connector is A13 in the lower right corner. Thanx in adby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
You will need a new sensor. The stock sensor only does 4 mm. Search youtube for proximity sensor tutorial (makers muse, and Tom I forget his last name has a few).by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Excitement!! My E3D Lite6 just came in today . Now to find time to install it. Question, is there any Firmware mods I need to do to get it to run good? Anyone using the little silicone heater cover that comes with it?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteveaceonee Here is an interesting goody that I came across just browsing around. It looks like a purpose built SSR-ish thing made specifically for 3D printer heat beds. thoughts? SSR replacement Edit- just ordered one. Will try it out when it arrives. It came in today. Got it mounted, but not hooked up yet. Quick Q, will I need to PID the hotbed after it gets hooked up? How importantby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is an interesting goody that I came across just browsing around. It looks like a purpose built SSR-ish thing made specifically for 3D printer heat beds. thoughts? SSR replacement Edit- just ordered one. Will try it out when it arrives.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Every time I change filaments recently, it jams in the throat. What am I doing wrong? How do you guys change out filaments?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
If Im going to upgrade to 10mm diameter, then I should just buy this kit. It comes with everything needed. Then, just go on Amazon and get a heated bed for it, done. that makes it even easier (but not cheaper).by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Im looking into a 300x200 bed upgrade using the BQ hephestos bed upgrade kit as a template. Just a quick question. What size smooth rods and threaded rods do our machines have?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
Took the printer apart, filament all jammed in the throat. Went into Cura, and noticed my retract was set to 4.5mm at 40 mm/sec. Changed it to 1.0mm at 40 mm/sec (as I read somewhere that I cant remember), gonna see if that helps. I havent done any wood in well over a couple weeks. Did you want a picture of the extruder setup or the old throat? *edit: I read on a Geeetech website (here) thaby veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
i will upload a pic when I get it tore down and swapped out. I use 3D Solutech, Hatchbox, Foxsmart, Esun brands. I do have a spool of wood, but I use it very rarely. i don not have any glow in the dark or metal filaments. Could the throat be sticking out to far, thereby not getting cooled down enough?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
whenever I change the throats after a jam the PTFE tube is hanging out the bottom all burned up.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
I have noticed that I am changing throats more often because the liner thing is coming out and jamming the nozzle. Maybe its because I use cheap Chinesium throats. Anyways, I am curious as to what will happen if I just pull that liner tube out and run without it?by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants
If you adjust those pots, make sure you use a NON-CONDUCTIVE screwdriver. Otherwise it makes interesting noises, probably not to good for it.by veaceonee - Prusa i3 and variants