Those looks like portion of the plastic lines laid out didn't stick on the build plate. Those are aren't due to stepper skips. This happened to me when i tried to apply glue stick while the build platform is still hot then immediately printing after that. They seemed like bubbles came out of the first layer. The only thing i can think of to cause this is unbalanced heating. You can still blastby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quotewidespreaddeadhead Another shift in my axes, I'm starting to lose it now. I'm going to try a different slicer(Cura, using Slic3r now), because I've only had one heart gears print off correctly, and four print with shifts. Try to use the z lift feature. Lifting it 0.2 or 0.15 mm on every retraction only marginally adds to the printing time. Its better than starting thby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
There are two sources of 5V logic supply on the arduino and ramps combo. 1st is usb, and the other is the 5V voltage regulator which you have described as "fried". This 5V powers all the logic supplies on the ramps - LCD, stepper driver, endstops.. For the 5V voltage regulator to work, it needs a 12V input which can also come from two sources: 1) From your psu via D1 on ramps; and 2) From the 1by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
There will be two cases of possible defect on that problematic cable. 1) wrong connection/orientation on the cable - you can check the wire colors on both ends and use the working ones as the reference.Shaking of the motor highly indicates this is the case. 2) one or two cables have loose/no connections - check each wires connectivity end to end. For the axes moving on opposite direction, you cby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Try this: 1) uncomment the 2nd #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX Quote //=============================Mechanical Settings=========================== //=========================================================================== // Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics // #define COREXY // corse Endstop Settings #define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of theby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
It functions as endstop only during a a homing (G28) or auto bed level (G29) . If you drive the head further down manually, it could crash into the bed. Reason is, the servo only gets activated during a G28 or G29. Not sure if case is the same for those with inductive or capacitive sensors.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
My endstop was at the head cause i was using Auto Bed Levelling. There's a servo just left of the fan to place that endstop into position during Z homing or auto levelling routine.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
This came about as it is now cause i had always wanted to put those diagonal braces between the Z post and the back of the bed. So i had to get rid of the supply from the side. The best place i could think of is below the bed.. So i had to raise the base, similar to the mendelmax model. Those corner brackets were taken from the mendelmax's. That's basically the motivation for the change on thatby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
The current state of my printer.. Some prints:by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Oh, i see your problem now. The second probing square you listed really wouldn't work no matter what you do with it. Since your 0,0 location had been configured to the upper right corner of the bed (when looking from the front), you should also change your orientation on defining the probing square. The best way for you to picture this is, look from the back of the printer then visualize the wroby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Your attached configuration.h file compiled properly..by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, thats the "conventional" back. Its up to you entirely if you want to move the conventional 0,0 point at the front left of the bed. All it takes on the firmware is, enabling the pullups for the xmax and ymax, changing the home for x and y to max, and moving your x and y endstop connector to the x and y max pins at ramps. You should then change your printer homing locations too should you do tby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
And another thing, im not sure if your z probe/sensor needs it, but you might want to check if it needs the #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMINby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
I think this is where all the confusion stems from. The point you labeled as home should fall on the left-front of the bed, in reference to the cartesian coordinate system. In your case, you had it at the opposite side. This is why, when you mentioned that your y endstop is at the front and x endstop at the right, i told you to home at xmax and ymax. In your case, since you all had your home sby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote55rebel hmmm?.... now that I'm looking at the defined rectangle in Marlin, they seem to be reversed. My X axis end stop is on the right side of printer, and Y stop on front. .....I'll get back. P.S. Well, reversing X & Y probe points, to where they would seem more friendly to my build, throws up an error when compiling: C:\Users\Mark\AppData\Local\Temp\build1479576133429720467.tmp\Coby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejimmyclarke Hi Thanks for your response, after reading what feels like every internet page on auto leveling I finally found where I was going wrong! I had been homing using Repetier and it's individual buttons for X Y and Z as I figured that's be the safest option, but I just saw when homing all axis (G28) In the comment for Z homing, so I pressed the homing button for all axis at once anby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Practically speaking, any thermal interface between the plate and the heater is unnecessary. While not flat, the heater do have a bit of flex. So if properly mated with the glass, you'll have an acceptable contact area between the two. Besides, there will be a point where you will need to remove the glass from the build plate.by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteSteve_in_NJ Quotewderoxas QuoteSteve_in_NJ Greetings all, Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info! I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete. 1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed?by wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteve_in_NJ Greetings all, Here's my first msg here. I have gone through a lot of the thread - tons of great info! I have two questions, both related to my build which is 90% complete. 1) The tape holding the thermistor to the heatbed let go so I need to re-do it. While I am at it I should ask - where precisely should the bulb-tip be placed? I had it right in the hole in the middle ofby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] I want to reprint the x-carriage parts, I thought I saw a copy of them with screws to snug up the bearings but without the 8 mm collars like these have I like wderoxas design but for some reason I am nervous about changing out the 5 mm rods to the 8mm collared ones. I cracked the under motor bracket for the Z rod holders. I have been asking Folger tech to sell me neby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterobodog Hi I've been using my 2020 for about a month now. No real problems other than errors in the installation documents. THEN, I tried to install the LCD display that I purchased from FolgerTech. I have not found any documentation on the display installation. I did use a flick from youtube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wP0LlOF8z58) that led me to the proper way to plug the device intoby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
The hotend that came with this kit has a teflon tube inside. 3mm od 2mm idby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
My printer just needs: G28 - It will home on X and Y then go to the middle of the bed to home the Z. Not sure if this is due to SAFE_HOMING option or something that was enabled. G29 - Probe the points The defines for the PROBE_BED_POSITION are the locations where your probes will actually fall. From your settings, the PROBE positions should be: 1) 27,27 2) 177,27 3) 177,197 4) 27,197 So yeah, yby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotego_gn OK.... I screwed up bad... I forgot to change the input voltage on the power supply after I traveled and I hastily plugged in 220V supply when the power supply was in 110 V mode... Heard a small pop.... not sure which part went bad... The power supply led doesnt come ON and extruder fan, wired directly, doesn't work. As I understand it ,the power supply has over voltage protection, bby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteejnelson P.S. great work on all the upgrades and such everyone. I'd commend everyone by name but I think pretty much if you're in the forum you have contributed and are worthy of thanks. I'm about to embark on pretty much reprinting all of the plastic components. I'm thinking about switching the arrangement of the x carriage rods from vertically stacked to horizontally planar. (trying to avby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Here's a description of the X/Z rebuild: . Good going with your "moosebot". The kit's ability to go for a 50 micron layer height was an unexpected effect of using the leadscrew. In your case, using a 4 start lead screw (8 mm per turn) further reduced the available steps/mm but still, theoretically, you could go until 2.5 micron layer height with that. It's really fun to see this maby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quoteejnelson Anyone tried printing any exotic filaments or know what the hot end can handle? It is the Mk7 right? I'm thinking about buying some taulman bridge, any experiences anybody? No experiences yet. I bought small samples of PETG and a PLA/PHA blend (supposed to be a bit less brittle than plain PLA), and I'm going to try them out next time I change filament. Just had my hoby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesamaral Quotewderoxas Quoteanimoose Quotebrian0 I'm having one helluva time getting my new machine to work properly, specifically getting everything set to home. Everything assembled relatively well. Where exactly is home on this machine? I would imagine the far back right corner, but I'm not sure. I've followed some of the steps previous in this thread, but I still can't figure out whatby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotebrian0 I'm having one helluva time getting my new machine to work properly, specifically getting everything set to home. Everything assembled relatively well. Where exactly is home on this machine? I would imagine the far back right corner, but I'm not sure. I've followed some of the steps previous in this thread, but I still can't figure out what's going on. My setup: -Sby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] I have the LCD and card reader had not installed them yet. And uhm ye about the lock up on the lap top "MAYBE" I was also watching archer during this lock up event. So yea what'd we learn? Where can I find information on how to attatch the LCD? I think i used tom's guide at youtube for the lcd setup. If your using the 12864 lcd, youre going to need a newer marlin fby wderoxas - Prusa i3 and variants