Welcome to the world of 3D printing. Its the little things that get you. Here is a repeat on my thoughts about the Sunhokey that I have posted elswhere. I hope you find some of it helpful. The comment about the X carriage is most relevant to this thread. The basic Prusa I3 design is very good but it needs a stable base to hold its calibration and stay reliable. I used an off-cut of kitchen wby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Olaf, Thanks for the tips, I have already "upgraded" the I3 by firmly fixing it to a piece of kitchen worktop this has addressed most of the stiffness issues and replaced the x carriage bearings with longer better quality ones. Any other suggestions before I start gradually upping the speed?by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I have just upgraded my Sunhokey I3 with a Ramps 1.4 to 24V heaters using a 24v power supply and 3 SSR's (it is a duel extruder setup). The speed of getting to print temperatures is amazing and the load removed from the Ramps board has made it far more responsive. Any suggestions on how I might increase the print speed to use this new found power? Paulby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
For the display, try swapping and/or rotating the connectors. I have found that different manufacturers do not have a consistent approach to the display connections. Not sure what to suggest about the thermistor apart from swapping it for a standard one.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Motors will act as generators if moved whilst unpowered. You are probably moving it fast enough to generate a small current. Try varying the speed you move the X carriage to see if the brightness changes.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes I have a 2015 Sunhokey but have done a number of modifications, please see my earlier post. For mounting the sensor, I simply used one of the screw holes on the fan of my Chimera dual hot end. Very quick and easy.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes it works well with glass. I forgot to mention that you need to watch out for other light sources (sun through the window etc.) to make sure it is not confused. Not a major problem, I just had to slightly adjust one of my spotlights. Also try and adjust the range as low as possible <8mm to maximize repeatability.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Having tried a number of auto bed leveling options servo with switch, inductive and capacitive sensors. The best one on my machine is optical from here it is cheap and simply plugs into the Z end stop socket.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
I upgraded to a standard RAMPS board from here the display is better than the one supplied with the printer. Sounds like your power supply is OK but do watch out for those screws.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
I have used this supplier and found the boards to be of usable quality, the display is good too. Delivery from China is not too slow most times.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
If you do get a Sunhokey there is a good series of videos on building it here Here are some comments that I have shared with him The basic Prusa I3 design is very good but it needs a stable base to hold its calibration and stay reliable. I used an off-cut of kitchen worktop (£5 from B&Q) and bolted it down with the z-motor clamps from and some screwed in blocks front and rear to make iby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Another upvote for E3D, I have spent lots of money trying out various hot ends but they were all worthless compared to the Chimera and V6.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
I think it is only one problem, the click is the extruder slipping on the filament either because you are feeding too fast or the nozzle is jammed on the bed. If this happens too much a groove is formed on the filament leaving no grip for the drive wheel.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
auto bed leveling is easy to set up on your machine one of the many easy and cheap upgrades upgrades available for the Prusa I3. I am just about to fit one of these to mineby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
Why not just get a standard RAMPS 1.4 board, there are plenty of How To's and help for setting up what is a basic Prusa machine. The hardware all looks OK and you will probably find it simple to make the change. Worst case some connectors would need to be rewired. If you are checking eBay or Amazon don't go for the first one you see as the price for varies a lot for the same kit. If you can waitby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
A cable chain like this would work. If you search for one with your printer name you will probably find the right one.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
You are probably right about the translation. Repeteir firmware is perfectly good configuration details can be found here If you have the file from the SD card upload it to the web site and you will be able to walk through all of the details with explanations of what each setting does. Details of the Melzi can be found hereby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
This guy has a selection including spring loaded to hold in placeby paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
That's how I had it originally you get the same result. Also, anything after // is ignored so technically it makes no difference. The line was copied from boards.h to make sure I had everything correct.by paultnl - Developers
I had the same problem then found that I had the ribbon cables mixed up. Swapped them over and all was well.by paultnl - Prusa i3 and variants
I think I am getting the same error Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" temperature.cpp: In function 'void manage_heater()': temperature.cpp:665: error: unable to find a register to spill in class 'POINTER_REGS' } ^ temperature.cpp:665: error: this is the insn: (insn 98 97 100 4 (set (reg/vF 103 [ pid_input ]) (memF (post_inc:HI (reg:by paultnl - Developers