seems there is a sub on reddit just for folgertech if you all aren't aware. Could be a better place to organize thoughts/questions now that this thread is one big jumble of questions and answers.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotekn4ud Very nice print therippa, what filament did you use? Hatchbox ABS. Here is another one, I really feel like I have this thing damn near perfectly calibrated... Now I need to figure out what left the "scar" on his face and forehead There had to have been supports for those arms right?! Otherwise, I find it amazing that those little arms didn't curl right up into the eby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
while we're asking questions for the lead screw upgraders... anyone have a good US source? I feel like the folgertech ones are overpriced. Looks like openbuilds has them for 10$ but with no nut.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Quoteejnelson P.S. great work on all the upgrades and such everyone. I'd commend everyone by name but I think pretty much if you're in the forum you have contributed and are worthy of thanks. I'm about to embark on pretty much reprinting all of the plastic components. I'm thinking about switching the arrangement of the x carriage rods from vertically stacked to horizontally planar.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterrowan327 Quoteejnelson first question for you all, I've been printing ABS at about 185 and PLA at 170 and just started PET at 175. I've done push plastic, microcenter inland, sainsmart, and hatchbox so far and they all fall into about those temperatures. I have done PID tune on my hotend. I've gotten some great prints, only major problem has been the stringies from the nozzle which seems toby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
P.S. great work on all the upgrades and such everyone. I'd commend everyone by name but I think pretty much if you're in the forum you have contributed and are worthy of thanks. I'm about to embark on pretty much reprinting all of the plastic components. I'm thinking about switching the arrangement of the x carriage rods from vertically stacked to horizontally planar. (trying to avoid a big cantby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
first question for you all, I've been printing ABS at about 185 and PLA at 170 and just started PET at 175. I've done push plastic, microcenter inland, sainsmart, and hatchbox so far and they all fall into about those temperatures. I have done PID tune on my hotend. I've gotten some great prints, only major problem has been the stringies from the nozzle which seems to be a common problem. Shouldby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
at about 4:30 he starts talking about resonance... could be the problem. I have the folger tech 2020 as well and I also get the Y axis noise. In my limited testing I've found the noise to be dependent on the shape of the print and the speed. You can't really change the shape of the print, but I have found that lowering the speed or feed rate, usually helps.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone tried printing any exotic filaments or know what the hot end can handle? It is the Mk7 right? I'm thinking about buying some taulman bridge, any experiences anybody?by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Got some free time at work today. So here goes: Z standoff Modified X-Ends for 8mm lead screw. Belt tensioner derived from heartless' design. Im dropping in here one of my GDrive folder for the inventor part files and some other stuffs im working on. Thanks wderoxas!!! ...all of these parts makes me wonder if anyone has modeled the whole machine. Would be nice to see this guy iby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Some upgrades done on my printer: Z motor stand off to reclaim around 40mm Z build height 8mm lead screw with 2mm pitch (purchased from FT) constrained on top end with a 608 bearing to eliminate the "springy" hold of the motor coupler Replaced with a bigger X axis stepper motor Corner brackets were also replaced. The frame is more rigid now. Currently i can set repetier's feby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Any suggestions for getting this bad boy to work with octoprint? It's a cheap inland brand cameraby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
@mel0n were you planning on wiring the fan to the D9 pins on the ramps 1.4? (that is just what i've found other people doing online) and another questions, I haven't quite had time to work out why my LCD won't work when my machine isn't connected via usb to my computer, so i need to do that, but in case my voltage regulator or something else is broken could I just head down the Octoprint routeby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone added a 2nd fan to be used as a PLA print cooling fan? I know someone designed a fan diverter to divert some of the air that blows on the heat sink for the hot end, but would it be possible to just add another fan so that you don't have to take off the diverter every time you want to print ABS?by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
@mel0n Haha, I have the same problem with the time estimates when using CuraEngine to slice. Seems Slic3r gives better estimates. Did you follow a tutorial at all for your octopi set up? If so, may I ask from where? What are your guys' favorite slicer and why?by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas Quotetherippa Quoteejnelson Quotemarkts Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box. Check my postby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewderoxas I have the full graphics controller and i saw the same behavior when i had switched the connection of the two ribbon cables. 1 went to 2 and vice versa. Tried switching the ribbon connectors... no luck. thanks though.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts Quoteejnelson Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck. I had the same trouble, but apparently others got it to work out of the box. Check my post on page 5. I had to upgrade to the latesby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone have trouble getting the reprapdiscount smart controller to work? mine only lights up when the computer is connected via USB. the point of the controller is to be able to use the machine when the USB is NOT connected. what the heck.by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUncertainty Quoteejnelson oh frick, just kidding, duh moment. I didn't have the power supply plugged back in. I plugged the power supply in and now I can move the z axis in both directions and the y and x is one direction (but not the other). I'm curious. Can you look at the voltage regulator on the arduino? Does it look cracked? It is very likely this is what went if it is still functionalby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
oh frick, just kidding, duh moment. I didn't have the power supply plugged back in. I plugged the power supply in and now I can move the z axis in both directions and the y and x is one direction (but not the other).by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
OK, so here I am trying to figure out what blew up. I uploaded the blink sketch to the arduino after disconnecting the ramps board. The arduino did indeed blink. i was then able to reupload marlin, connect the ramps board and connect to the arduino with repetier. I cannot get the machine to do anything through repetier though. I tried replacing the driver on which i was fiddling with the Vref wheby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Animoose, the only symptom I noticed in my limited testing last night was that before the pop and smoke the z axis was moving both directions, x and y would move but only one direction. After the pop and smoke nothing was responsive. I will test the arduino like you mentioned tonight. @uncertainty I was adjusting the Vrefs with both the power supply connected to the wall and usb connecteby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok thanks, i stole one from the second extruder control like you mentioned. So, i ended up running into problems like I was worried about. I was adjusting the Vrefs and heard the pop and got the smoke. Next step is to buy a new ramps 1.4 correct? The one on amazon that animoose linked on his blog is out of stock, I found this one: link, should work right?by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Seems I'm missing a jumper... Because the one I'm missing is where I don't need it (i'm assuming) I'll be ok right?by ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Animoose! Actually, your blog has been one of my main resources I've been using to help me with the build. The forum is so disjointed with people at various stages popping in with problems, so your blog being nice and chronological is perfect. I saw that you blew up your board (sorry about that) and it seems that you ran into a few other problems with the electronics, most notably the witby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone compiled like a go-to list of all the problems/solutions found for this printer yet? I'm about to finish up the mechanical assembly, and i've skimmed this thread a few times and there seems to be the most problems with the electronics. I guess my plan was to just go through the configuration guide as is and if I come to problems I could scour this thread to see if my problems matchedby ejnelson - Prusa i3 and variants