so as i'm recently cleaning my hotend, i see that hidden ptfe tube inside, which i hadn't noticed before. Why is that there? Can the printer function without it? Can i replace it with a metal tube of the same OD and ID? Is there a disadvantage to upgrading to an all metal hotend with this printer? Oh, and my thermistor wire snapped and the little resistor thingy unexpectedly flung off somewhereby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
You're doing a great job helping others. Thanks!by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you Mach. I'll check it out this weekend. (i have to review how to get the marlin thing to make changes on my printer. I haven't done it since i originally built it). I will also read up on the wiki in your signature. Thanks Are you just a Folger Tech aficionado or do you work for the company? If i had to replace the thermistor, would i just go with a stock replacement from Folger techby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
hi guys, i've had my folger tech prusa for almost a year now and i've noticed that, to get a proper print quality, i had to keep my nozzle temperature relatively low compared to the general consensus on print temperatures. To get a decent looking PLA print, i have to print as low as 173C. Even at 180C i get unpleasant saggy vertical walls. For ABS, i have printed down to 200C. The same ABS on myby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
anybody having any issues with the bed heating up? It seems the longer i use this printer, the slower it gets when it comes to heating the bed. Lately it takes forever to get up to 100C (for abs). I checked that i soldered the bed correctly (black wire touching the 2 soldering sections) and that everything else is wired in correctly. Not sure if it's my little temp gauge not working correctly orby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
i'm trying to find a solution to my axis endstop: it keeps slipping down when the machine is running and if i forget to rotate it, the extruder smashes into the side. This is due to the fact that the lower rod in my kit was too short and it's a tad bit loose. I'll probably end up gluing the rod in place. I got another email from Folger tech's customer "service" today and once again, of no help.by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
The most user friendly and quickest program to learn 3d modeling is Solidworks. It's so popular, in fact that you'll find more tutorials on the web and youtube of this program than anything else (Grabcad, an online resource for uploading 3d models, is pretty much 90% solidworks models). It too can do sheetmetal, but since you're here, i'm guessing you want to 3d print it.by hobbes - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I am very impressed with this kit. Much less with their customer service who, instead of offering me helpful advice, insist on just guiding me back to the reprap.org page... Anyway, i wanted to share a few more prints i've done lately. This is a cubesat. A 10x10x10cm cube frame for small satellites. I modelled it for a contest over on Grabcad. I felt it would be nice to print a working model.by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
are you guys getting good (or any...) customer service? I messaged folgertech with some inquiries on the lcd screen and my extruder skipping when using pla, and their answer was "the files are not gcode. check out reprap" That is litterally all he wrote. I'm sorry, but that's just sh*tty customer service, especially for a company that boasts having their parts made in the USA...by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetadawson Likely a motor direction/endstop issue . . . did you have any issues when you first built it regarding getting it to home properly? - Tim yes, the x axis would not go to home and it was acting bizarre when manually moving it through repetier. I found a solution in the early pages of the thread where i had to correct a value in the h.configuration of the arduino marlin-ramps scriptby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
so i'm realizing that all my prints are mirrored. Even the first one, though i didn't think so at first. I'm not mirroring them in repetier, they actually appear normal on the preview. The printer simply prints a mirrored version of what's displaying. Something to do with the config? Also, my extruder is doing this thing now on the first layer where i hear a clicking/skipping noise and the filamby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteawmyhr Was looking forward to putting this kit together w/my boy today, but alas it was not to be. I got M3 T-nuts instead of M4, meaning we couldn't even do the first step. Oh well, fired off an e-mail to support, hope to get the right parts soon... That's a bummer. Good luck getting your parts in asap, man. Every now and then i thought i had missing parts, but it was all there. Some stuffby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa I think you're having two separate problems... 1. Something is wrong with your heatbed or with the connections you've made to it. Triple check everything. Maybe post a picture of the solder joints you did. 2. If you have slic3r configured to heat the print bed before printing, and your heatbed is not working, the print will not start. If you're printing PLA, try generating soby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuotePics from my original build. She looks much better now! (the green spool holder is Sainsmart green PLA i linked above. Not the hatchbox green ABS thats on the spool, the hatchbox is a lot lightert in color and looks nowhere near as good!) and I just finished printing the last peice of my custom cable chain. I will be tearing my Y axis apart tomorrow and installing a cable chaiby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
ok i got my extruder to work (manually) and everything seems to work, such as homing xyz. I can't for the life of me figure out how to start a print through repetier. I sliced a file and pressed print, and even though it says "heating extruder" the temperature was going down instead. Oh, also, in the manual control doesn't display a heating bed icon (where the temp and fan icons are). Everythingby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Page 6 says the rear of the vertical beam should be 900mm from the rear of the printer. I made all the corners like you have in the picture flush. Did you make sure the blocks on the X assembly are 300mm apart? or maybe they cut the extrusions the wrong length? thank you for pointing that out. Page 6 does in fact say 90mm from the rear. I somehow missed that. As for the x assemblyby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
I stayed up till 4 am yesterday building my 2020. I'm on page 24, at the power supply installation. Up to this point, there is no mention to how or when to tighten down all the frame screws. At the beginning it mentions that we will later, but i'm coming up to the electronics and Dan seemed to have omitted this step. When I installed the X&Z assembly, it became clear that it won't fit if i keby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally got my printer today. I'm checking all the parts. Noticed through the bag that some parts on this board were bent. Could an expert set of eyes tell me if i should request for a new part or will this work just fine?by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotearxidon Hobbes I believe the estimated delivery is the time from when they receive your order to when they are able to ship it. After that the shipping time depends on where you live and such. That's incorrect. It represents an approximated timeframe for when the package can be delivered, without unforseen delays. I've always recieved the package on, before, or just a day after the estimatby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you guys kidding me? So the estimated delivery is complete bogus?by hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants
i'm anxiously awaiting for my 2020 prusa to arrive, today. Bought from Folgertech's ebay store and have been looking forward to this all week. I have to say i'm disappointed in the USPS tracking service as it doesn't give me any update other than the day which the label was made. What's the point of a tracking service if all it shows you is when it was shipped and when it arrives? This is by no mby hobbes - Prusa i3 and variants