Quotesonnylowe Good point...on the grinding stuff. The gear was tight, so I ran another check, still half the amount as requested. I pulled the Hot End (while still hot) and ran only filament through the extruder. It was off by about 5mm over a 50mm run. Did the math, made a few changes in the firmware and then did several 100mmm runs that came out right on the money!!! Reinstalled the Hot End anby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe QuoteRedneckGeek Quotesonnylowe I have been suspect that my extruder is not putting out enough filament to keep up with demand. So I wanted to calibrate it...I was following this guide. I used Repetier to run out 100mm of filament I literally got about 30mm only. This seems crazy to me...could it really be off that much!?!? I also noticed the filament did not run smoothly, itby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesonnylowe I have been suspect that my extruder is not putting out enough filament to keep up with demand. So I wanted to calibrate it...I was following this guide. I used Repetier to run out 100mm of filament I literally got about 30mm only. This seems crazy to me...could it really be off that much!?!? I also noticed the filament did not run smoothly, it would stop, jump, slowdown, etc.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteplatinum16 Hey guys just a couple questions. Is it easier to do all the firmware updating from PC or Mac and what program do you use for printing? I use a PC and the Arduino software. Super easyby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D So I upgraded to the latest marlin code posted earlier in this topic, and now by bed won't go much above 85 or 90 degrees, and takes much longer than before. Has anyone fixed this? What's the trick? Also, is the throat on the extruder a 26mm or a 30mm? I had the exact same issue and never bothered to fix it. I never had any issues with the original older Folder firmware so I justby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
DELETE Nevermind I found what I was looking forby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Tim, what is the temperature in your room? Do you have any A/C vents blowing on your printer? I keep my house at 76-77F and run my bed at 103C and it never drops below 100C... I had an issue with the new Marlin someone posted in this thread where my bed would not go past 86 or so degrees so I went back to the stock firmware and it works fine. What firmware are you using?by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Anyone use OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi? I hooked mine up and it seemed to work ok for a few days then went nuts. I use it basically as a web interface to drop my gcode files into that are exported from Repetier/Cura. Same files work fine I drop on the SD card and print from the panel. When I drop them into Octoprint its like it prints too high off the bed and just sprays a big glob of plasticby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemel0n Quote691175002 QuotecorryBiggest issue: to those who say they got the kit assembled in 4 hours are you *SURE* you have those t nuts rotated in the slots 90 degrees? All of them? They're awful. I know misumi's preinstall t nuts cost a bit, but those (m4) post install t nuts are absolute garbage. Spent hours on single bolts sometimes. Was ready to go to the garage make some thermitby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNargousias Mark, As far as glass was concerned I went to lowes and purchased one piece of 24" x 26" 3/32" thickness clear replacement glass for $8.36. I had them cut it into 8x8x8 squares and ended up with nine pieces. They charge for cuts after the first two but the cost is minimal something like 20₵ per cut. It took three cuts and cost less than $9 for nine pieces (not counting taxes)by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteTimJC Before I place an order with FT, are there any spare/extra parts that you guys would recommend adding to the order? I already have the graphical LCD coming from BangGood, so I am thinking more along the lined of stuff like extra nozzles, thermistor, heater cartridges, fans, etc. Heat break tubes with PTFE - the one they ship seems to wear and jam really quickly. I'm not even sure iby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteve_in_NJ If I am placing a perfectly flat piece of tempered glass on top of a presumably NOT perfectly flat heated bed, is some sort of tape or other heat-transferring goop between the two a good idea? Similar to the stuff one puts between a chip and a heatsink? Use clips around the outside to hold them together. The heat bed is somewhat flexible and will flatten out well enough againsby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteblank64 Hi all, I recently got one of these kits and am mostly done putting it together. Something that has me worried is that one of my stepper motors seems to have no hold (I can turn it by hand with no effort while the others put up a lot of resistance), the back area where the cords plug in also seems kind of loose compared to the others. Does this mean it is broken? Is it safe to testby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 Hello on the Folger 2020 Extruder part M6x26 Stainless Steel Nozzle Throat I want to buy some replacements .. are there 2 different kinds.. I see some that says just Stainless steel and I see others that say it teflon lined? or all they all the same with teflon? thanks Definately teflon lined. I actually bought some teflon tubing to replace the stuff in the steel when it wears out.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteRedneckGeek Quotetherippa QuoteMach What has to be changed to the up-to-date marlin version in order to make it work with this printer. when I transfer the config.h setting and the pins.h settings from the version that FT provided to a newer version, the printer does not function properly. Could someone post a link to a newer version that works with the printer, or maybe attachby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteMach What has to be changed to the up-to-date marlin version in order to make it work with this printer. when I transfer the config.h setting and the pins.h settings from the version that FT provided to a newer version, the printer does not function properly. Could someone post a link to a newer version that works with the printer, or maybe attach a newer version that is knownby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotenmh5028 I'll give that a read, but that doesn't sound like it would solve the issue of losing USB connection with 4 or 5 of the stepper drivers installed. My PC can detect it with 2, 2, or 3. If I add the 4th it connects and immediately disconnects Could be bad stepper controllers. I had one bad one out of the box. If it was plugged into any spot on the ramps the USB would not connect.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Chiming in - if anyone hasn't tried the glue stick method with ABS, it works really well. The pieces literally pop off as it cools (and it's loud enough that it startled me). Give it a try! I haven't been so lucky. The first time I did it I printed a 10mm test cube and it stuck perfect and popped off. A few minutes later I tried to print a part and it wouldn't stick the first laby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] My Z-axis bearings fall out! Thinking of pushing them up out of the way inside the holders and then running a little hot glue around the opening so they do not slide out. Any thoughts anyone? I put a little dab of epoxy on each end of the openings for mine. Works fine as a little stop. Hot glue might be ok but the higher heat rising up off the head bed when printinby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa At least I know that some day if I become the father to a very fussy baby, I'll be prepared, because I went through the experience of building a 3d printer. I am the father of a very fussy baby and there is no comparison. You will run to the printer for relief from the kid no matter how difficult the printer is. hahaby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 QuoteRedneckGeek Quotezarnold16 quick question i accidently bought a piece of glass 9.5" x 9.5" for the heated bed. Is that too big or could I make it work? Glass is pretty easy to cut. They have the cutters at most craft stores and places like Home Depot for 5-10 bucks. Probably take you all of 30 seconds to cut it to 8x8. At that larger size it wont fit right between the bedby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 QuoteRedneckGeek Quotezarnold16 quick question i accidently bought a piece of glass 9.5" x 9.5" for the heated bed. Is that too big or could I make it work? Glass is pretty easy to cut. They have the cutters at most craft stores and places like Home Depot for 5-10 bucks. Probably take you all of 30 seconds to cut it to 8x8. At that larger size it wont fit right between the bedby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezarnold16 quick question i accidently bought a piece of glass 9.5" x 9.5" for the heated bed. Is that too big or could I make it work? Glass is pretty easy to cut. They have the cutters at most craft stores and places like Home Depot for 5-10 bucks. Probably take you all of 30 seconds to cut it to 8x8. At that larger size it wont fit right between the bed adjusting bolts at the corners.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like its not homed. Check out this thread: Read through it because I think we've all had the issue with endstops being reversed and whatnot. There are a number of solutions posted in there.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I'm out of comission for a few days. I cannot get this thing to print without jamming up the hot end. The PTFE is too short (maybe less than 1/2") and the filament melts up behind it and cools enough to lock up. If I do bigger prints with long runs it does fine, but it jams when doing denser infills or smaller objects with quick retractions. So, ordered some hot end barrels and a small sby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Does anyone know what might be causing this waviness? I can't find it documented anywhere online... Mine does that too and I'm using Cura. Its pretty symetrical and looks kind of like carbon fiber so I don't care, I won't spend any time trying to "fix" it.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 Looks good sk8 I'm still working on my printer,, It was missing a lot of nut and bolts being metric I'm having problems located them.... but strangely it has extras of others? Its frustrating waiting for your printer then not being able to complete it because of missing such small parts..going to harbor freight later,, I think they sell metric nut and bolt kits.. Some of the parts migby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesk8Does anyones x axis motor get really hot compared to the rest? Indeed it does. The other motors are barely above room temperature, if at all. The X axis motor gets pretty hot. But it all works so I'm leaving it alone for the moment. I'm at .33 when measuring the voltage. I could probably crank it down a little.by RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesk8 Received my package completely smashed, looks like it was run over by something. Still got my printer completely built, but when following the config guide when I try to home the x axis it doesn't want to move more than a few inches. With manual control it doesn't want to move to the right, did I get a bad board? What could the problem be? I checked all my wiring multiple times and everyby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemike3 So as I understand it.. I load a .stl file into Slic3r or Cura,, it generates G-code then you transfer that to Repetier which actually controls the printer....I will be using Win7 Mike Youtube is very helpful with this stuff... I think I've spent more time watching videos than messing with the printer and I'd say it has helped. I've only had one single failed print so far when thby RedneckGeek - Prusa i3 and variants