Hi all, If this is the wrong place to do this, I apologize in advance. I'm thinking to sell my printer and wanted to keep it in this group if possible. I have gotten a lot of support from the group and would hope to continue on learning with you all. It's a great printer but I needed a large build volume and had to upgrade to something larger. I'm in So CA and would also prefer not to have to shby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Ultifix, there might be another way to look at this decision. I bought the 2020 FT, because I wasn't sure how much I'd actually use a printer. I figured that for the $300 or so, it was worth it to put one together and see what I thought at that point. Here's what happened, the build mechanically is very simple and intuitive. If you have problems, they are most likely related to setting up the sofby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, Has anybody seen their printer magically jump and start to print shifted from where it was supposed to print? I had a problem last week and then lubed all the bearing surfaces and made sure that the motor connections were all tightened and got a decent fairly large print (5x4x1), but then I tried to print an enclosure that's 6.25x6.25x2 and got a shift in the surface again, but this time I noby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuoteDavewerld Hi again all, I'm back at the printer after a sabbatical forced on me by a few deadlines. I started up the printer finally and got some really nice prints with whatever material the green stuff Folger tech sent with the printer. I bought a roll of ABS and it didn't print as well, even following the temp guidelines I found saying 230 for extruder and 100 for the bed. Sby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, Turns out that I had some material in the tube too, so it ended in my taking everything apart. When I reassembled, I noticed my z axis on the right side is wobbly, the captured nut isn't, so when it goes down, the assembly can lag the nut. I'm guessing I can separate the threaded rod from the motor and cinch it back up, but I am wondering what people are doing to alleviate this issue, I'm thby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi again all, I'm back at the printer after a sabbatical forced on me by a few deadlines. I started up the printer finally and got some really nice prints with whatever material the green stuff Folger tech sent with the printer. I bought a roll of ABS and it didn't print as well, even following the temp guidelines I found saying 230 for extruder and 100 for the bed. So I thought that the other sby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteDavewerld Is anyone else seeing issues with the crimp connections in the harnesses? I had one wire in the endstop harness that was crimped onto an unstripped wire, how it occassionally made contact is a mystery to me. I'm also seeing an issue on the thermistors, but I don't have any more crimps, I may just solder those connections to the board. I can't get any further on the xby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
If it's off the board, measure the resistance and it should match the MF-MSMF050 spec which is between .15 and 1 ohm. When you jumped the pads did the board start working?by Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
It is supposed to reset itself when the short (overcurrent ) is removed, however sometimes they can't reset for whatever reason. I have seen failures on them because they were wave soldered instead of hand soldering for example. Here's more details on them You could see if there is voltage present on both sides of the fuse to test it, but I think that you might be a little reticent to do thby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi built350camaro, If you can control everything with the LCD screen but can't see the mega board even when it's alone, it seems like you may have a com problem. They do have a polyswitch resettable polyfuse on the board, that's supposed to protect the USB. Maybe it failed. Here's the schematic for it and the layout is here. the fuse is that little thing right below the USB connector. Prby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Built350Camaro, What version of Arduino are you using? Older versions wouldn't recognize the board and you would have to point the device to the driver. If you are on a newer version of Arduino, this is unlikely to be your issue though. The Arduino mega board alone will power up from USB. You can remove it from your stack and use it as an Arduino board. See if your PC recognizes it without theby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Is anyone else seeing issues with the crimp connections in the harnesses? I had one wire in the endstop harness that was crimped onto an unstripped wire, how it occassionally made contact is a mystery to me. I'm also seeing an issue on the thermistors, but I don't have any more crimps, I may just solder those connections to the board. I can't get any further on the xaxis issue, because now my prby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
I did try that. I also tried playing with the settings of the pins. And changing min and max in repetier. Also flipping the x axis wiring to match y and z and even flipping the directions in Repetier. And still it mocks me by moving that little x carriage about 10mm. Folger tech sent me an email saying they were going to send me a new Ramps board. Maybe that will make the magic happen. I kindby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, Downloading that firmware didn't change the behavior. So I want to try moving the Xstop connector over, but that opens a new batch of questions. If I look in pins.h, I think we have Gen7 v 1.4 pin assignment, which says X_STOP_PIN 0, is that what I would change and to what, because Y_STOP_PIN is already 1 and Z_STOP_PIN is 2. Of course, none of that seems to match the RAMPS 1.4 schematicby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi therippa, and others If I place the printer head in the middle, and home the xaxis, it moves about 10mm to the left, each time I press home it moves about 10mm away from the endstop. That's with the stepper motor plugged in like the picture on p28/38 of the config doc. If I flip that connection, it moves 10mm toward the endstop. The y axis most often does what I would expect, it buzzes alongby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, still not getting my printer to work. I emailed Folger Tech and waited the two days for a response, but the response didn't fix anything. Here's what I am at: I can connect to the printer with no issues. However, hitting the home x and home y buttons do almost nothing. Sometimes the home x button moves the carriage about 10mm, but never a big sweep to the limit switch. I have tried aboutby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Use M5x10 or M5x12 for connection. Good design practice has at least three threads engaging, those M5x8 couldn't even do that in theory based on the SK8s.by Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Mine shows 70.5 K at about 34C. If I put my finger on it, the resistance gets less so, I am guessing it is a NTC thermistor. It might be a 82K thermistor, since that's measured at 25 C.by Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey all, I just got my Prusa put together, but when I go into repetier and try to move things using manual control, it only will move one way, x,y and z are all affected the same and all say the endstops are hit. I know they are not hit, and the little red LED that lights when they are hit is not lit. Has anyone seen this issue? Thanks in advance. 15:31:00.350 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sby Davewerld - Prusa i3 and variants