So, I had taken my V1 Wanhao I3 nearly completely apart to do some upgrades/replacements. One of the parts I replaced was the X-axis rods and bearings/blocks. After re-assembly however, I realized I am not sure how to re-align it properly: The two black metal boxes that hold the X-Axis rods and the motor/pulleys for the x-axis belt.... I have no idea how to make sure they are the perfect lengby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePolygonhell Your going to want to know why the rods you bought didn’t work, otherwise you have no idea if the issue is the rod or the bearing, and if a replacement rod is going to work. I know it's not the bearings, because neither my old nor new bearings work on the new rods, but they both work fine on the old rods. I also noticed that they seem to perform better the longer the new rods aby Cyber Akuma - General
QuoteDaGameFace High quality American stuff, price tags arent insane but it is more than china They seem to only carry bearingsby Cyber Akuma - General
I am from the US. I wanted to replace the smooth rods my printer came with as it was a fairly cheap model and I am worried all of my assembly/disassembly from tweaking and upgrading it could have bent them. Plus, I just wanted higher-specced rods than the cheap ones it came with. I tried buying them from someone others insisted sold high quality rods on eBay, a US seller, however when I got theby Cyber Akuma - General
I tried oiling them significantly with Super Lubeby Cyber Akuma - General
I tried measuring both the old and new rods with a pair of digital calipers I had, and they both seem to be the same diameter. Why do my bearings not move smoothly on the new rods then? Both my old and new bearings are smooth on the old rods, but rough on the new rods. QuoteMechaBitsI was also thinking 20mm rods but no measuring device... Yeah, I posted the wrong link, I ordered the 8mm rods, bby Cyber Akuma - General
QuoteMechaBits Since when does the USA do stuff in Millimeters? Dude, really? Just because it's not the standard unit of measurement in the US does not mean the country and all manufacturers and stores are ignorant of it. I went and picked up Metric screws for my printer from Home Depot a few days ago.by Cyber Akuma - General
The bearings work fine on my old rods though, which are specified as being 8mm, same as the ones I got. I find it hard to believe both my old and new set of bearings, as well as all my fittings, were wrong in just the right way to work.by Cyber Akuma - General
I have been trying to upgrade many of the parts of my old printer. While replacing the bearings with better versions, I had to do a lot of work to dissemble/reassemble the printer, and was worried all this force I had to put on the printer could have possible bent the rods, so I decided to order new ones. I figured I might as well get rods that were likely more durable and accurate then the onesby Cyber Akuma - General
Ok, so I know to use Super Lube for all the smooth rods in my Wanhao i3, but I am not sure what to do for the threaded rods. I noticed that the threaded rods already have some grease pooled up on the threaded hole that they go it on the X-Axis assembly, so I am not sure if I should use lube or grease since they seem to have some with grease. I was told that grease is not good to use for anythingby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
I have an older near-Version 1 model Wanhao i3. I had a hell of a time attempting to reach the set-screws to remove the x-axis rods so I could replace the bearings on my printer. I was eventually forced to completely take off the entire assembly to get at the screws.... i pretty much removed anything on the Z-axis except for the threaded rods attached to the steppers.... but now that I did thby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
UPDATE: I got a reply back from the person I bought the Heater Cartridge from, they said that the wire is 28 AWG. That's a LOT smaller than I was expecting, any suggestions what kind of crimps or other connectors I can use for such a wire?by Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a very old model Wanhao i3 (Just barely not Version 1.0... closer to a Version 1.01 or so, definitely not V2 or later) which I have been doing several modifications to (a few of which were mandatory for safety reasons that were fixed in later models), and I have wound up needing to replace the heater cartridge. Since the Wanhao i3 uses a somewhat less common 6.35mm (or rather, 1/4"... oddby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
Currently, my print bed has PEI that is bonded to glass. While I can remove the glass with the PEI from the print bed as that is just resting on a silicone thermal pad, I can't remove the PEI itself from the Glass since it's bonded to it using 3M double-sided Thermal Tape. This is a problem now because I want to start trying to print with PETG.... and that stuff is crazy-sticky. From my understaby Cyber Akuma - Printing
I have a pre-version 2.1 Wanhao that I have been performing upgrades and maintenance to. Since I am already replacing the Extruder, Coldend, and Hotend with an all-metal version, I figured I might as well just replace the MK10 Heatingblock too since that would be the only part of the entire printhead that would not be replaced otherwise. That, and it's also using an old style of thermistor that iby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
Err, anyone?by Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
I have a Wanhao i3, it's a V1 model... or close to it. I know that it's not a Version 2, but it seems to be a slightly revised version of the Model 1. It came in two pieces instead of one, and already had the gaskets installed on the Z-axis motors, but many other improvements such as not having the crimped extruder wires out of the drag chain or the fix to the heated bed burning out the main boarby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been wanting to replace what plastic parts I could with metal ones for my Wanhao i3, and was surprised to find quite a few options exist already, although I had some questions about a few of them. The first one that caught my eye (and the main one I cared about) was the CNC-milled metal extruder from Micro Swiss: Pretty much exactly what I wanted (I was originally planning to see how poby Cyber Akuma - Prusa i3 and variants
The glass is for an even flat surface, not for heat conductivity.by Cyber Akuma - General
Seems I can't find ANY pads in the rigth size regardless of brand... The glass I am putting on my bed is 200x250mm, so I was looking for pads at least that big or bigger. Most of them are in the 100x100 range... or very thick like 5mm or 7mm. The few handful that I could find are shipping form Hong Kong and estimated to take until mid October to arrive!by Cyber Akuma - General
Actually, for ashesion I am planning to laminate a PEI sheet on top of the Borosilicate Glass using 3M 468MP tape. I already have the PEI, glass, and tape.... just need a pad to put the glass on the printbed. Really, I am doing the opposite of trying to cut every cost I can, since if I was I would just use binder clips instead of a silicone pad. (I have actual acetone as well, I use it to make ABby Cyber Akuma - General
Damn..... it's been out of stock on Amazon for nearly a week now, they said they don't even know if they will get it IN stock again. Went out of stock just as I was about to order it last weekend. ... A lot of the 3D printer guides refer to them as "Gino Pads" even though that is just one brand of manufacturer, is there any particular reason to choose Gino over other brands? I can't finish myby Cyber Akuma - General
So were the pads alone enough to keep the glass stuck to the bed?by Cyber Akuma - General
QuoteJonS I pressed mine under weights overnight, and that was it. On the print bed? Or did you use something else to heat it?by Cyber Akuma - General
Thanks for the advice. Although, another thing I am not sure about is how to heat-treat it. The PDF from 3M (the last link in my original post) mentions "Bond strength can also be improved with firm application pressure and moderate heat, from 100°F (38°C) to 130°F (54°C) which causes the adhesive to develop improved contact with the bonding surface." and the person in the video mentioned he wasby Cyber Akuma - General
Ok, so my printer currently has an aluminum bed. I am planning to put boroclass glass on that (adhered with a Gino/Silicon heat transfer pad) for flatness, and then a PEI sheet on top of that to make the prints stick better. So according to the RepRap wiki, and just about everyone else, 3M 468MP tape is the way to go: Doesn't seem easy to find that stuff though, Digikey appears to be the onlyby Cyber Akuma - General
Removing the glass isn't really a conscern, especially since I plan to put a PEI sheet on top of it, so unless it utterly breaks I don't plan to remove it. I am more conscerned with it actually sticking well and transferring heat better, since strips/sqaures can cause air pockets that would insulate the heat. Do I need to use something else to stick the pad to the berd and glass, or will the padby Cyber Akuma - General
Ok, so I recently got a Wanhao Duplicator I3, and one of the changes I am planning to make to it before I start printing is to add a glass bed. I hate the idea of using binder clips, and saw that many people use Gino (or some other brand) Silicone pads normally meant for computer CPU/GPUs instead. I am a little confused about two things however. First of all if you should use one big pad or cutby Cyber Akuma - General