anyone any ideas ? :/by ansisl - Printing
thumbscrews are there, I use them just to eyeball bed level (hence autolevelling), I did try extra tilted bed - problem persists :/by ansisl - Printing
prusa i3, Marlin 1.8.3, inductive probe, heated alu bed I have auto bed levelling set up. Recently I noticed that I can't get even first layer (you can see from image attached) - Z like jumps up at ~certain X position. Hotend hits bed (depending on Z offset - ~-0.6 - -0.8) on X-min or prints to hight on X-max. I tried: - bilinear, linear, 3 point levelling - turned bed upside down - switched Xby ansisl - Printing
Quoteevetanlm HI, just need help, I'm having some issue and currently as even using SD or change SD and even use laptop, after heat up and going to start the problem restart keep happening. Any advise how to solve the issue? See mb there is a clue in the gcode output.by ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx Quoteansisl QuoteAx E'nin, Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably betterby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 ansisl I have auto bed leveling working -- the nozzle goes down to ~0.1mm above the bed in 9 places. When the print starts the nozzle is raised to 1mm above the bed. I know I have something wrong in the firmware but have not found the problem. Do you have any suggestions that would allow me to use the printer with auto bed leveling? well try playing with Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAx E'nin, Don't suppose anyone has the STL for the mechanical Z Endstop? I've been right through the thread and pulled down the STL files I could find here but there doesn't seem to be a file for it. Been banging my head against a brick wall with the Auto-Levelling and have given up and have just been using the sensor as an endstop recently, so tbh, it's probably better to go for a standardby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Just wanted to share a bit. One of many problems for me was the alu bed temp - took ages to get to even 80C (pla). Now I'm getting to 110C in like 15min with the same psu. I made a sandwich of alu plate, pcb, foil and cork and connected bed directly to psu via 5v relay controlled by mks via old bed connections and replaced the 'stock' wires with thicker ones. I also used the same kind of relayby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
just measured my amps: mks+extruder ~3-4amps; mks+heat bed !7amps :/ on 12v 23A psuby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Guys a question about mks and controlling additional pins. I want to control a 5v pin to switch on/off hot bead (directly connected to psu), I've done that with ramps but I can't seem to find info on mks. Can you plz tell me which pins I can control and their corresponding numbers in Marlin. Thx!by ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYakuza For ansisl check these in your configuration.h file //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN uncomment or comment out this depending on what your F/W says const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. and this see if it helps tried all of this :/ no reaction. plugged into X endstop (-) - the same - no reaction.by ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
I checked against version I have - all 'changes' from Yakuza version are there :| I have rechecked the connections - all seems to be ok (as I said the thing that worries me is that if a simple Z endstop switch is used as the 'proximity sensor' the G29 works fine). mb the board is faulty. Also a weird thing - when proximity sensor is not triggered there is still current (~3.8v) coming from sensorby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
guys I need help! I'm having no luck with proximity sensor (sn04-p) - it is not stopping Z. Its connected to Z- (Z+ empty), light is coming on upon proximity, sensor outlet is giving out voltage once in proximity, BUT G29 isn't registering it I did reflash with Marlin found at the start of this thread. Also tried feeding it 12v from board and using resistors for sensor output to reduce to ~5v. Tby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekareem613 How do people usually share images here? Here it is with display reading 0,0,2. Edit: Attached image. my original XY endstops were off board after failed tries to adjust with Marlin I just moved endstops to smooth rods and ziptiedby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic Quotew4rdaddy I dont know about others but my migbot has pretty robust cables imho for the bed(maybe 2.0m2 or 2.5m2) but it still took ages (+1h) to reach 100c. Solution was to insulate the underside of the heatbed and before printing put something fireproof on the printbed so that the heat wont dissipate. I use a fire blanket folded, and remove it just before printing. Now its aboby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
read about calibrationby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Yea I did .. also its the sensor - it was not changing state - broken, ordered replacement so will see in few days time thxby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi guys! I've also just finished assembling this printer. Got two problems :/ 1. imo my proximity sensor is faulty - light comes up then it's close to plate but it never stops the Z motor :/ ('old' Z endstop does when using with G29). I've tested it from a quite safe height with different aluminum 'targets' - it just keeps going down. I did shorten its original cable quite much but I soldered wiby ansisl - Prusa i3 and variants