Quotesonnylowe Quotetherippa Quotesonnylowe Quotewoodknack Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 therippa in regards to Simplify3D what problems did it solve? I have been using slicer and have had some annoyances, no real Issues. I thought about switching to Cura. What are your thoughts on this? Two things it immediately fixed was waviness on the walls of my calibration cubes, and one corner on them alwayby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotewoodknack Quotetherippa Quotemsaeger Quotewatlooazn Guys I really need help. First time builder, half way into building the printer BUT I CANNOT find a way to tighten the m3 nyloc nuts! What tool should I use? Please be precise. Pliers? Ive been trying really hard with pliers but they never get screwed in by me. How did you guys tighten the nut here? And how did you tighteby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotemsaeger Quotewatlooazn Guys I really need help. First time builder, half way into building the printer BUT I CANNOT find a way to tighten the m3 nyloc nuts! What tool should I use? Please be precise. Pliers? Ive been trying really hard with pliers but they never get screwed in by me. How did you guys tighten the nut here? And how did you tighten the nut here? Also for thiby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa And speaking of Simplify3d, they put out a really good print troubleshooting guide today - Thank you! This is a big help on a few issues I have..by woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 therippa in regards to Simplify3D what problems did it solve? I have been using slicer and have had some annoyances, no real Issues. I thought about switching to Cura. What are your thoughts on this? Two things it immediately fixed was waviness on the walls of my calibration cubes, and one corner on them always bulging out. Also S3D is more then just a slicer. Im stiby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotemarkts That looks cool! So I went to print the adjustable Y axis tensioner. After seeing the calibration cube and calibrating the extruder, I thought I was good to go, at least good enough to print replacement parts and hopefully progressively get the parts better. No luck. For one thing, after increasing the extrusion rate a bit, I can't get the prints off the bed! I'm trby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Quotemarkts That looks cool! So I went to print the adjustable Y axis tensioner. After seeing the calibration cube and calibrating the extruder, I thought I was good to go, at least good enough to print replacement parts and hopefully progressively get the parts better. No luck. For one thing, after increasing the extrusion rate a bit, I can't get the prints off the bed! I'm tryby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
This came out nice in transparent yellow. Made it for one of the kids. But I was thinking after I printed it, that a hole in the belly and a magnet glued there would make a,cool frig magnet.. imagurby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus So sad... while doing all the wiring i found that the termistor on the hot end it's dead... Common issue. Mine was broke too.by woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I got to test out my cooling fan shroud for the X axis motor over the weekend. Before I had it mounted, the motor would typically run 135 F as measured with a surface pyrometer. Now with the fan running, after 1 1/2 hours of intense movement , it's staying at 90 F! That gives me some piece of mind. Im not sure what my X temp is. But its cool as a cucumber to the touch. Not surby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewoodknack QuoteMopar99 Quotewoodknack QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides. That's absolutely horrible looking! Yourby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Quotewoodknack QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides. That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should loby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides. That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this > Hopefulby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMrfus Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. However, the lowly threaded rod, once calibrated, should yield accurate movement. Theby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotekn4ud Quotetjnamtiw Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. However, the lowly threaded rod, once calibrated, should yield accurate movement. The Xby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey KN4UD......... Good idea for tightening up the nut on your lathe chuck. If mine are like that, I'll do the same on my lathe. I had a small cnc mill a few years ago that had a brass lead screw nut that was split on one side and had a screw going from one side to the other on the bottom of the nut. If you started to get back lash you could just tighten the nut a little. Do you have pictures ofby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. However, the lowly threaded rod, once calibrated, should yield accurate movement. The X carriage and extruder asby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa For anyone who is using a Bowden feed and the z-motor risers, I made a mount for the Sainsmart Full controller - (adding some random text here since the forum software thinks I'm a bot) I have just the regular LCD screen, but I like your mount better then what I have. So I took your mount and tweaked it and added some brackets for a small LCD. I just threw it together real fastby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotetherippa For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - I'm on the fence with this one. Clearly you are one of the more knowledgeable gurus here so I respect your opinion. The Z axis is the least used axis as far as cycles go. Yes, movement must be accurate to have accurate layer thicknesses. Howeverby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa For those waiting to pull the trigger on upgrading to lead screws, Banggood has them on sale right now for just $8.56 - Thank you! That seems more reasonable. I ordered them. Good Find!!by woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotewoodknack Quotetjnamtiw Quotemsaeger Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMrfus What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament? I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!! I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I wouldby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Quotewoodknack QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90. I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first oby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotemsaeger Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMrfus What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament? I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!! I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 Cby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Quotemsaeger Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMrfus What kind of fan mount do you use on your FT prusa to cool the PLA filament? I have done some searching on the Thingiverse and I got some ideas from a couple of designs, but maybe I'm overthinking the design and there is already a solution on the cyberspace!!!! I don't use anything! I don't understand WHY I would want to. I extrude at 190 Cby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90. I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole inby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose Quotewoodknack So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way tby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 Quotetjnamtiw QuoteMopar99 Sorry, that the off set from the feed of the 100 mm Ok. So was it that much less than 100 or that much more? And then what did you get for your EStep number after applying that correction in the formula? (100/Actual mm)*90. I marked 2 spots on the filament for the 100 mm, then position the first one at the top of the hole in the extruder (first mark wby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
So I finally ran trough a whole 2.2lbs roll off black PLA. Im getting more comfortable with my printer. So I ordered a bunch of different colors of PLA on Amazon yesterday (should be here tomorrow). But I had the bug to keep printing. And I remembered I had a sample of green PLA from Folger tech. The heat setting said 219 on the package. I soon realized that was way to hot for my setup. The filamby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot QuoteNargousias Had my printer since last November... Still reading this thread.... and re-reading...... Yep. While there is a ton of information in this thread, the utter lack of organization makes it less useful than it could be. Sometimes it's like asking someone where the gas cap release button is on your new car and being handed the service manual complete with instructions onby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Quotewoodknack Quotesrcga Quotetherippa Also, I found a better x-endstop holder - Did you notice any difference in print quality by changing out your lead screw? Hard to say, I did a bunch of other upgrades along with it, and noticed better print quality. What I do notice with the lead screw is better printer quality... they don't bend like the provided screw rods do, and wby woodknack - Prusa i3 and variants