Quotejabu32 Can this gold filament be saved?? you can see it is all popped and distorted while the white filament (extruded right after) is smooth. i keep all my filament in an air tight container with moisture absorber. jabu32 - my gold filament is probably the most difficult to work with out of all of the colors I have. I have found that you need to back off the flow considerably comparedby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone ever tried to run multiple FT2020s off the same computer to print the same thing? I would think it would be easy to do, but I'm not exactly sure how to do it. Is there a USB splitter that would make this possible?by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander QuoteLancelotL Hello all! My FT 2020 i3 is still running like a champ and printing new stuff all the time. I just purchased and started assembly of my FT5. Anyone else working with an FT5 yet or know if there is a forum for the FT5? I just purchased a MKS Gen V1.4 for migration to a 24V system on my FT 2020. I didn't like the FT solution for only having one z-axis connector (by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello all! My FT 2020 i3 is still running like a champ and printing new stuff all the time. I just purchased and started assembly of my FT5. Anyone else working with an FT5 yet or know if there is a forum for the FT5?by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Oh and one more thing. Any suggestions for getting the old throat out of the heater block? I think the Hulk inserted mine along with the extruder tip which was darn near impossible to get off too.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello fellow Folger Techies! After several failed attempts, I have been able to print using NinjaFlex on a slightly modified stock hot end. I insulated the hot end and added some thermal paste where the nozzle throat attaches to the mounting block. This allowed the filament to maintain just enough rigidity so that it flowed relatively well out of the nozzle. I had to print at about 15mm/secby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuoteLancelotL Quotemsaeger QuoteLancelotL Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hopiby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuoteLancelotL Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but itby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 Anyone mess with the swap filament command? M600I usually just pause and swap out the filaments.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix Can anybody reccomend if the hatchbox glow in the dark is any good? Hey Ultifix! I have had great success with Hatchbox glow-in-the-dark. I printed the MakerBot T-Rex skull with it. It's one of the most fun filaments to play with. Keep in mind that it has to be "charged" first under a light to glow, the more intense the better, but the effect is very cool.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Need help diagnosing the problem shown in the photo. Seems that anytime I print a relatively large rectangular object 1/2" thick or more, the corners peel up. I'm printing ABS, extruder at 220 and bed at 100 with 25% infiill. Printing directly to the glass with good adhesion on the first layer. I have run autotune on the bed and was hoping that would fix it but it didn't. Maybe I need to tryby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Sweet. I have been meaning to try that one in ABS. QuoteUltiFix Not bad! No supports used, pla at 180, with bed at I think 70. Haven't even taken it off the bed yet, waiting for it to cool down.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Can someone provide a quick list of some of the advantages of the e3d v6? I am printing exclusively with ABS and am pretty happy with stock results thus far, but there is certainly room for improvement in places. Thanks!by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
This is probably the coolest thing I have printed so far. The files are available on Thingiverse. The base was printed using 0.1 mm layer and the letters came out great. The rod was printed using a raft. I polished the teeth with some acetone.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello all! I have been MIA for awhile but am back in business now. Thought you might like to see what I've been up to. I just printed and installed the z motor mount standoffs and already printing bigger stuff. On another note I have come to the realization that gap between the nozzle and the build surface is the most important thing to get right. If it doesn't "bite" on a piece of paper, adby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteelkayem Speaking of Z-axis distance... The one thing that really bugs me about this printer is the limited Z axis range. I can get up to about 140 mm, with a bunch of wasted space up on top. The big problem is that the distance between the holes for the M5 threaded rod and M8 smooth rods on the X-end printed mounts do not quite match the hole spacing on the acrylic mounts underneath the Zby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteYelloow-Snow I'm thinking about converting my printer into a CoreXY Who wants to go first? therippa? animoose? haha Unlimited weight on the X axis! Yelloow-Snow I might just buy the FT Cloner kit. I have mods planned that will significantly add to the weight of my i3 build surface. If anyone has ideas for a conversion I'd love to hear them too.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I'm happier than a pig in poop! I just finished three of these babies! It took a loooooooooong time but well worth it! They are beautiful. I also added the Z axis extension. I did note that the extensions' holes are too small for the boss on the bottom of the Z motors so I've changed the .stl file and will be printing new ones. Oh, 190 C on first layer and 185 on the rest. 70by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone tried pairing the i3 with the Autodesk printing function in Meshmaker? I have been using 123d design and Meshmaker to do my own designs. I am amazed by the free tools that Autodesk has available.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Quoteanimoose QuoteLancelotL I seem to be having problems getting anything that doesn't have straight lines to hold dimensions in the first 1/4" off the build plate. I'm using ABS. Radiused corners tend to peel up in this 1/4" zone too. This is somewhat mitigated if I make the first 10 layers solid, but then the first 1/4" of the base winds up being a bit mis-shaped. I'm thinkiby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose QuoteLancelotL I seem to be having problems getting anything that doesn't have straight lines to hold dimensions in the first 1/4" off the build plate. I'm using ABS. Radiused corners tend to peel up in this 1/4" zone too. This is somewhat mitigated if I make the first 10 layers solid, but then the first 1/4" of the base winds up being a bit mis-shaped. I'm thinking it has to doby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
I seem to be having problems getting anything that doesn't have straight lines to hold dimensions in the first 1/4" off the build plate. I'm using ABS. Radiused corners tend to peel up in this 1/4" zone too. This is somewhat mitigated if I make the first 10 layers solid, but then the first 1/4" of the base winds up being a bit mis-shaped. I'm thinking it has to do with the bed temperature whiby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
I seem to be having problems getting anything that doesn't have straight lines to hold dimensions in the first 1/4" off the build plate. I'm using ABS. Radiused corners tend to peel up in this 1/4" zone too. This is somewhat mitigated if I make the first 10 layers solid, but then the first 1/4" of the base winds up being a bit mis-shaped. I'm thinking it has to do with the bed temperature whiby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL i think I'm short in my z axis by about 50 mm. I have attached my stepper motors so that there are three attachment screws on the bracket. Can I slide the brackets up all the way and lose that bottom screw? Just checking to see if anyone else has done this successfully. Worried that there may be too much wobble if I take that third screw off.ok, duh, I can't lift it higher thanby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Downunder! I'll give that a shot.by LancelotL - Printing
i think I'm short in my z axis by about 50 mm. I have attached my stepper motors so that there are three attachment screws on the bracket. Can I slide the brackets up all the way and lose that bottom screw? Just checking to see if anyone else has done this successfully. Worried that there may be too much wobble if I take that third screw off.by LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
This was an excercize in support material. Slic3r did a fairly good job of including the proper support but not all of them actually touched which was kind of weird. Not sure if it's a fine tune temperature issue on my end or not but the image preview showed them not touching also when I went back. Anyway, I added some decent 5 mm brims and it seemed to fix my pillar adhesion issue. A coupleby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw Your temps should be fine. It may be sagging on the top because your infill isn't enough. Set it to about 25% in the slicer. It should support the top better and make sure you have 3 layers for the top. The bottom being slightly larger could be because you set the first layer to be more than 100%. I usually set mine for 150% to get a good wide first layer and plenty of grip. Aby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello all! Does anyone know if it's possible to create a 100% fill underneath a support generated by Slic3r? The default 50% doesn't stick well enough for the smaller pillars. The brims help but I can only get them to attach to the pillars that are on the outer perimeters.by LancelotL - Printing
Does anyone know how to get Slic3er to provide a 100% fill underneath supports on the first layer to provide better adhesion with the support material? I can fix some of it by making my brim size really wid but it seems like there should be an option to fill the support material base. Some of my supports always seem to break lose because the default fill for attachment of supports seems to bby LancelotL - Prusa i3 and variants