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http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 7 years ago
Quotesdw_nj Does anyone know what the proper name for the connectors that plug the end stop wiring in to the board? I'd like to replace the wiring on my y axis end stop. I was able to identify a compatible switch for the end stop but am still trying to figure out what the compatible part would be for the wiring connector. They're JST Balance charger LiPo connectorsby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quoten9jcv Can anyone tell me how much distance there is between the top front 2020 and where the belts cross near the center of that extrusion? Also is home 0,0,0 top, front right? Also if I leave the belts as is but make the cube wider but do not mount the right side in the corner but 2/3 of the way from the left would the corexy still function properly? Thanks The belts don't cross on thisby Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quoteo_lampe Quotewhat is the purpose of the other hole? Maybe the z-smooth rod goes there? See my post aboveby Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 7 years ago
Ah, ones for the rod, the other is to allow for the use of the recommended flanged button head bolts to go up into the mounting hole. Supporting the front of the bed isn't needed when using 12mm smooth rods on a cantilever bed. It's rigid enough, plus I think you'll find it a pain to fit that in unless you totally overhaul the design, it scales well as is, but adding in extras like that will reby Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quoten9jcv Hello everyone, I am about ready to start building a corexy and I am pretty settled on the FB2020. I have looked at thingiverse, git hub and read some here but I have a question. On the Y rod holders, and I am assuming the Y axis is the front to back movement, with one rod on the top left and one on top right. In this picture from the github build log, the Y rod hold is orange, it isby Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quotemarkshur Do you know anywhere I can buy one set of printed parts for the FB2020 plus using the latest BoM? It's funny you should ask that, I'm just setting up something now where you can buy the parts from me. PM me and I can sort you out.by Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 8 years ago
Well, it seems I'm not quite done with the design, I've just recently built a 3rd FB2020 and got fed up with the Y axis rod holders. I've since totally re-designed them to allow easy parallel alignment with no twisting as they butt right up against the corner brackets. It does need 340mm rods over 300mm rods, but it makes the Y axis a lot more rigid due to the way the rods are held.by Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteIBaz QuoteIBaz Sorry if this has been covered before but does anyone know if it is possible to extend the range of the proximity sensor for bed detection? I have just covered the bed with a sheet of PEI and now that the sensor has to read beyond the print surface to the aluminium it literally has to touch the PEI to get the correct print height for the first layer. Now the sensor has to sitby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking QuoteAx Just re-calibrate the E Steps, they were set up for my machines, yours could be slightly different. Also, frankly, don't buy Chinese E3D Clones, you can get an E3D Lite6 damn cheap. Over here in the UK it's £21 (~$25) ex Tax and shipping direct from E3D. There's no reason to not buy an original. Thank you Ax! Eeep. I should of done my research. The chinese clones are actualby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking Well great news! Re-downloaded your 1.1 firmware, used Arduino 1.6.8 and its printing fan dabby dosey! none of this strange side printing malarky. I have noticed though, i was calibrating the Esteps on the old firmware, with no hot end and the extrusion was accurate on 100mm filament (0.4mm off) the orginal e-steps were; #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,398.269957,94.4by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
The Bowden mount for the hot end is my design - Extruder is the Schlotzz with a mk8 gear - You can turn the Jerk down from the Display, but as the standard firmware doesn't have EEPROM enabled, you can't save it. Control > Motion > Vxy- Jerkby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking Hi Ax, Thank you for the reply. The orginal photos may not have given it justice, but its not a adhessive/offset issue (though the hotend could of done with going down 0.1mm more maybe) The hotend stops printing the complete layer path, i dont know how to describe it.. it cuts its self short one side and then goes over the base outline layer on the other side I've just downgradedby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking Hi Ax, thank you for your reply I really do appreciate you taken time to help. Apologies for the confusion, I was struggling to get the orginal standard bed firmwaren(Gary N. McKinney's prusa firmware) to compile in the version of Arduino., but his large bed firmware does compile and i dont get any of these issues (its just everythings not centered) I am still very confused - Iveby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking Hey Guys, I've bumped into a little issue, i've installed Ax's firmware 1.1 - marlin 1.1 (Standard size) onto my printer. Tweaked the Zoffet but my prints are coming out like this; Its asif the printer has just stopped printing the layers. I've tried; -Printing from SD card instead of USB -Slicing the model again with Cura -Re upload the firmware Now this is where it gets weirdby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteZurking Hey All, Its fantastic to see this thread still active and filled to the brim with helpful infomation. My MigBot has unfortuently been collecting alot of dust in the last several months (moving around) But before I moved i bought a chinese E3D V6 direct drive hotend and had started modding my hotend mount (Using a remix of Axmod's E3D v6/Lite6 Direct Drive Mount http://www.thingivby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quoteveaceonee Got the printer running, and it working awesomely. Been looking into printing with ABS and came across this video. ABS Tutorial At 2:47-ish he says to just use Kapton tape with window cleaner for bed adhesion. Never heard of that, does it really work? Are all his other tips sound? Just looking for clarification on this. Thanx in advance. Frankly, ABS is one of the worst andby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quoteveaceonee QuoteAx On my FB2020s I use it and it makes a hell of a difference. Just need to find the cash for 3 blocks and socks, well worth it. Firmware depends on the mount you use. I am using your mount you have on Thingiverse (the one with a fan on each side). It is impressive looking. (Note: I wasn't done wiring when the pic was taken, and the large fan goes on the side to cool theby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quick note. I have all 3 of my Migbots converted to Bowden now, this has made a hell of a difference. Firmware-wise, I have Marlin 1.1 RC7 set up for the large bed ( it's a quick change for the standard bed) on these, if you want to use my Bowden set up, drop me a message, I'll sling you the firmware. Extruder-wise, I'm using the Schlotzz extruder on all my machines. I need to mount them correctlby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quoteveaceonee Excitement!! My E3D Lite6 just came in today . Now to find time to install it. Question, is there any Firmware mods I need to do to get it to run good? Anyone using the little silicone heater cover that comes with it? On my FB2020s I use it and it makes a hell of a difference. Just need to find the cash for 3 blocks and socks, well worth it. Firmware depends on the mount you uby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quotegotswrv Thanks Ax!!! No worries, just bare in mind that the mount will need a fair bit of firmware tweaking along with the fact that it will not work without the auto-level sensor.by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
- mount uploaded, untested as yet, but thrown to the crowd to test.by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
So, I've been busy, my print queues have been huge and I've not had time to really give my Migbots much love. As I've got a small bit of down time I've sat down and redesigned the mount for the E3D Lite6s on them. Historically, I was always anti-bowden extruder on the Migbot however, with the knowledge I have now of this set up and further use of the Migbots, unless you print a lot of flexibles,by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quotekaffemustasj Wouldn't it be hard to switch to E3D and bowden when I'll have a semi difficult time getting printed parts, or can it be done? Thanks! Did you mean you have spare E3D mounts or spares of the MK8 aluminum block? I'll definitely look into shipping and postage! What state do you live in? I'm in the UK, although untracked postage to the US is cheap, for a block it'll be around £5.by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quotekaffemustasj I believe I've encountered a difficult problem. I've bought and sold this kit before and I recently received my third kit which I wanted to keep for myself. The aluminum block on the extruder assembly has misaligned screw holes with the extruder motor. What are my options for fixing this? 3dprintersonlinestore.com is refusing to help with this problem. 2 options - 1)by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteDave_W Hi All, I have just finished reading all 46 pages of this topic with interest. I brought my Migbot about 2 years ago from Ebay and it was shipped from china. I find it very handy that I can draw somthing up in Freecad, Export it and load it up in Cura. Save the g file to a SD card and print the part out. usb can not be relied on to keep going without an error for the time it takes toby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
Quoteveaceonee Quoteveaceonee Here is an interesting goody that I came across just browsing around. It looks like a purpose built SSR-ish thing made specifically for 3D printer heat beds. thoughts? SSR replacement Edit- just ordered one. Will try it out when it arrives. It came in today. Got it mounted, but not hooked up yet. Quick Q, will I need to PID the hotbed after it gets hooked up?by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteTaisiya QuoteAx You've wired it incorrectly. Check http://reprap.org/wiki/Migbot_Prusa_i3 for the wiring. It sounds like you have the signal wire mixed up with +5v or GND OK, so I have double checked I have Black, Blue, Brown from top to buttom plugged into negative pole z- SN04-N2 sensor with following markig BK LOAD,NPN signal BU 0V-NC 300mA - BN 6-36V +by Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteTaisiya QuoteAccidentalWisdom I received a solid answer on this outside the forum. The order of the SN04-N wires on the MKS Base v1.2 board from top to bottom should be Black, Blue, Brown. The sensor is wired in this way on my Migbot and the sensor is running correctly (though still working on getting the position right!). Hi, Are you sure about this order to wire the sensor, I feel likeby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: FB2020 CoreXY - 8 years ago
OK, so, it's been a while. I've not really had much time to work on things. I'm looking at winding down this printer design in favour of the AX-01. There's only so much I can do without totally redesigning things so, I'm going to leave it where it is with one further modification to the extruder carriage. I detest having to remove the hot end on this bot, so, I'm going to make it a magnetic couplby Ax - CoreXY Machines
Re: Migbot Prusa i3 Unofficial Support Thread - 8 years ago
QuoteInsaneCheese I'm looking at building a C-Bot, I like the idea of the belts not crossing and there is a triple screw variant for the z axis which makes me happy. Cantilever and opposite side screws don't seem that stable to me. Still, printing a few upgrades and bolting it to a solid base helps a lot with stability and print quality. I'm looking at you adjustable axis tension. Cantileverby Ax - Prusa i3 and variants