Quoteflatlander QuoteKeary123 Has anyone had issues with their Ramps board or power supply frying? 2 weeks ago I had just finished printing all the parts for a CNC, when I got home the printer had stopped printing in the middle of the print, I reconnected to the printer and tried to move the axis and didn't get any response. I noticed that the mosfet connectors on the ramps had started to melt. Iby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone had issues with their Ramps board or power supply frying? 2 weeks ago I had just finished printing all the parts for a CNC, when I got home the printer had stopped printing in the middle of the print, I reconnected to the printer and tried to move the axis and didn't get any response. I noticed that the mosfet connectors on the ramps had started to melt. I switched out the Ramps boardby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Keary123 - Steps work in everything but G1. Tired of beating the file up, I'm going to abort this version. I downloaded your version of Marlin going to mod that file tonight Okay good luck. Let me know if you have any questions about settings I used.by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker Thanks for the help guys. Only had a little time to play with it yesterday. The head will still not go to bed center for homing Z. Strange thing is when I give it (G1 x100) the head moves very slow with funny sound and only travels about half the distance. the display shows x at 100 but it is not in center. Same thing happens with Y. However, it will home Z in this position. Theby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDaveA QuoteKeary123 QuoteWilberMaker @ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You. @ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker @ Keary123 - Yes, it would be a big help to see your files. Thank You. @ DaveA - Thanks, I have SAFE_HOMING uncommitted but it still wants to home Z in the 0,0 position. I have set the X_MIN_POS and X_MAX_POS at 0 and 200 (bed size) and set the probe offset at -30 and -20. What else is controlling it? I was thinking that maybe I am not updating the EEPROM so I ran clear EEPROby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker I am trying to install a Inductive sensor on my printer. The sensor is working. If I put the head in the center of the bed and do a normal Z home it works like a regular endstop. Problem comes when I try a G28 it Homes X and W normal then trys to home Z with the sensor hanging off the bed. What settings do I change to get it to home Z in the center of the bed? I had this issue aby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteflatlander I'm migrating to a new SSD - HDD OS-system. Can I just drag and drop the old files including cura.ini and slic3r_settings.ini into the new RepetierHost Workdirectory? It seems that there should be a better "import settings" within RepetierHost. Hopefully I don't have to rebuild all my filament settings. Although, a clean slate has its advantages. Cue the flow-math headache. "by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
@flatlander I agree. Using Marlin 1.6.5 G28 homes in the middle then G29 moves to front right position and probes, then front left (where x end stop Is located, then back left, and then back right. It seems to be working correctly though!by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger QuoteKeary123 Quotemsaeger Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed.by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemsaeger Matter control has a autolevel thing that doesn't need more hardware. They have you set the hotend to bed gap in a few places then during the print they move the z to make up for your bed being out of level. It would work best if you had the z end stop at the top but it will work at the bottom you just need the end stop set at the lowest point on the bed. Im using S3D but the issueby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone set up autobed leveling with marlin 1.6.5? I am having some issues switching over. I am using a fixed inductive sensor and before the light would always be on and it would trigger when the nozzle was close to the bed. Now the light is off and triggers when it is close to the bed but it doesn't stop the Z-Axis from continuing to move down.by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteUltiFix QuoteKeary123 I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling haby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
I finally found some more time to work on my printer. I just switched my autoleveling sensor from the right side of the extruder to the left side. Since the endstop is on the left I can get closer to the left edge of the bed with the sensor hanging off of the bed. But now i am having issues getting G28/G29 to work correctly. Before this autobed leveling had been working for the past three months.by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMopar99 thanks for the feedback, just wanted to see if the info i was give was true or not. I hadn't see anyone talk about it so it leaves one wondering? I have a E3D v6 clone with an upgraded fully metal heat break. When I originally installed the Extruder I seasoned it with some PLA filament and some oil. I dipped the filament in the oil, pushed it through the hotend, and then pushed a clby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteUltiFix QuoteMach QuoteUltiFix I have my bed running at 100c, my printer is fully enclosed, and my hotend is at 240. and im STILL experiencing corner warping! That is annoying. 1. Could printing at 60mm/s cause it? 2. Could not high enough bed temp cause it? 3. Should I print with a brim? I just hate to print with a brim because then it takes me like 2 minutes to clean it uby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar QuoteKeary123 Quick question for anyone using S3D and an auto leveling probe. I have my probe working perfectly with Cura/Slicer but since switching over to S3D my prints are off centered. Lets say I place an item in the middle of my bed and slice it, it appears to be in the center on S3D but when the print actually starts it is around 40mm to the right of the center mark. I wasby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSteveRoy Quotejhitesma If you're not using autolevel then threaded rod is acceptable but not ideal. If you're using autolevel then I'd strongly suggest using lead screws since you have up and down motion within a layer so backlash and accuracy become a much bigger deal and wear is greatly increased without them. So lead screws would be better than M5 threaded without auto level? I feelby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick question for anyone using S3D and an auto leveling probe. I have my probe working perfectly with Cura/Slicer but since switching over to S3D my prints are off centered. Lets say I place an item in the middle of my bed and slice it, it appears to be in the center on S3D but when the print actually starts it is around 40mm to the right of the center mark. I was wondering if it has somethingby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKeary123 Quoteanimoose @keary123 I had a clicking problem on my E3D lite6 recently in a direct drive. There was a partial blockage because the PTFE liner wasn't pushed down as far as it needed to go. So plastic was accumulating in the gap between the end of the liner and the nozzle, and it was not hot enough to flow out the nozzle, but not completely solid. You could try taking it apart andby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteanimoose @keary123 I had a clicking problem on my E3D lite6 recently in a direct drive. There was a partial blockage because the PTFE liner wasn't pushed down as far as it needed to go. So plastic was accumulating in the gap between the end of the liner and the nozzle, and it was not hot enough to flow out the nozzle, but not completely solid. You could try taking it apart and seeing if theby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 Has anyone had issues using a bowden extruder? I have the bowden setup with the e3d lite but i can not get consistent extrusion. The extruder works fine in the bowden tubing until it reaches the hotend. When it reaches the hotend the extruder drive gear gets stuck and the motor clicks. I have tried everything to decrease the force needed forby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa QuoteKeary123 Has anyone had issues using a bowden extruder? I have the bowden setup with the e3d lite but i can not get consistent extrusion. The extruder works fine in the bowden tubing until it reaches the hotend. When it reaches the hotend the extruder drive gear gets stuck and the motor clicks. I have tried everything to decrease the force needed for extrusion, no angles in bowby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone had issues using a bowden extruder? I have the bowden setup with the e3d lite but i can not get consistent extrusion. The extruder works fine in the bowden tubing until it reaches the hotend. When it reaches the hotend the extruder drive gear gets stuck and the motor clicks. I have tried everything to decrease the force needed for extrusion, no angles in bowden tubing, increasesd hotenby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quick question. I had auto bed leveling setup and running using the supplied Z end-stop switch. I am looking to change out the end-stop with a more precise micro-switch. I was wondering if anyone has used the micro-switch and what connections they wired to the ramps board. The switch has "C" which i am guessing is signal, "NO" normally open, and "NC" normally closed. Thanks for the help.by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
therippa do you happen to remember the misumi part number for those bearings?by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
#Update Fixed All I had to do was disable max end stops, which I had previously done but messing around in Marlin I accidentally changed it. I am running into some trouble trying to implement auto-bed leveling using a RC servo and zenmasters guide. The problem is after i run the G28 homing command I run G29 and the servo arm extend three times in the exact same spot, it does not move to differeby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
therippa in regards to Simplify3D what problems did it solve? I have been using slicer and have had some annoyances, no real Issues. I thought about switching to Cura. What are your thoughts on this?by Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts QuoteKeary123 Quotemarkts So I *finally* got the printer running again after having to move it to another room. I was determined to actually run through some of the calibration steps this time. I printed a test cube, then did the extruder calibration. It was extruding to little, so I got it dialed in and printed another cube. I couldn't get the cube off the bed! (heated with blueby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts So I *finally* got the printer running again after having to move it to another room. I was determined to actually run through some of the calibration steps this time. I printed a test cube, then did the extruder calibration. It was extruding to little, so I got it dialed in and printed another cube. I couldn't get the cube off the bed! (heated with blue tape) I reheated the beby Keary123 - Prusa i3 and variants