Hello, I'm building my third prusa I3 wood frame printer, large format (print size 30cm/30cm/30cm), and would like to install a mk8 dual extruder. However, some things seem a bit unclear. I allready have the extruder, and printed a carriage from thingiverse. It fits well, but I am a bit concerned that the PLA will melt near the hotend. There is a distance of +- 1mm between the plastic and the hoby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm building a new reprap machine, prusa i3 with wooden frame and einstein printed parts. I would like to install a dual extruder on the x-idler, but don't fully understand how to. Do I need to buy a bracket or something, or perhaps i can print it?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Turns out everything was right, just my interpretation was wrong. when i push moving y axis forward, the bed moves towards me, what it is supposed to. (that way the extruder moves to the back of the print). Toke a while to understand the logicby Nicken83 - Reprappers
So what i need is when i press the home button, the y axis moves to the back end, hitting the endstop plugged in the min pins, and stops.by Nicken83 - Reprappers
Hello, I'm making my second Prusa i3 printer. Im using a self made wooden box frame, printed the parts with my first printer, collected rods etc. in hardware stores and online. So far, so good. Just uploaded the marlin firmware, en connected the printer to repetier host to test the movements. Z axis and X axis working perfectly fine, with endstop Z on bottom left, and endstop X on left side. Howby Nicken83 - Reprappers
I agree with gwc2795. Print with higher temperature. I use 230°c on first layer with PLA. After first layer decrease to 210°c. Heatbed is set to 75°c, print on glass plate. Mirror smooth / flat surfaces!!! Without tape, hairspray etc... Also when printing in 3mm height, first layer I print is 2mm. This is easy to set using Slic3er software (advanced settings).by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thx for the help!! I measure only 3V when completely powered by psu. When usb is connected a solid 5V. The psu however gives 12V as it supposed to. I guess it will be the mega board... (Any solutions to solve this?) For now I'm happy with Olaf's solution. I use a 5 V gsm adapter to power the mega board with the usb cable.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I tried another RAMPS board, unfortunately without succes. 2 more options, bad lcd or bad volt regulator on mega board. I'm just not sure where I can measure the voltage to the display... Anyone can help me?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
you'll notice fast enought when you print something with numbers or stuff like that, and its mirrored, you'll have to change it. From what i know it has to be y endstop in front and x endstop at right OR y endstop in back and x endstop at left. And an axis moving in the wrong direction is easily corrected within Marlin, just look for these lines in the config.h; #define INVERT_X_DIR true //by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
i had a similar problem, with me it were the jumpers who were missing under a stepper driver.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
you'll have to change the direction of that axis in the marlin firmware (or whatever firmware you're using). Allso, i see your x endstop is on the right side. I had a similar issue in the beginning when my Y endstop was on the front side of my printer. Result; al my prints were printed mirrored.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Another thing is, when not connected to pc, the main screen says "SD card inserted", but in the next menu it says "no SD card". When connected to the pc, i can start a print from the SD using the smart controller without a problem. Could this be the same problem as the one described above?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
So i figured out the display becomes readable when raising the power supply to 14V. I'm just not sure this voltage is acceptable for the Mega board...?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm also from Belgium, just completed my prusa I3 for +- 370 euro. However, it did take some time to search all the pieces together on ali express, ebay and amazon. Also some risk of forgetting small things, order wrong sized frame or stuff. I was lucky finding my steppers second hand (5 pieces for 30 euro). Big catch here is i had no manual at all!! I've googled more in the last 3 weeks then theby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
There are some formulas on the wiki pages, use them to calculate the correct values using the parameters of your equipment. That's how i did it. It's in the section with calibration stuff.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
replaced the cheap heatbed and wrong thermistor with alu heatbed and 100k thermistor. Money well spend!!! Heating to 105°c in about 6 minutes! And correct values!!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've discovered that the display is getting a boost when RAMPS is plugged in usb. If i turn the contrast pot all the way down when plugged in, plug it out, and then turn the contrast up, it is slightly better. However when I pull the SD card out and put it back in, it is back to unreadable. Could this be a problem with the power supply? Where can check the power supply for the display?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes I have, same problem. Weird thing is it's only happening when I disconnect from PC. Also with no SD card inserted. As long the printer is connected to PC, there is no problem. First post in this thread isn't entirely correct.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
When i print using pronterface i have a clear smartscreen (everything readable!), when i disconnect my pc, still no problem, but the moment i insert a SD card when not connected to PC The smart controller blacks out. At that moment it's still readable (very difficult from a specific angle), but the clearness can't be adjusted enough to make it comfortable to read. Any ideas on this? Using a repraby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've used a 20kohm thermistor for my heatbed. In Marlin I could only choose a 10kohm in the configuration. The measurement shows 10°c when it should be 20°c. I'm just wondering if the changing resistance of the thermistor goes lineair, so I could assume when the monitoring shows me the heatbed is 100 °c, it is actually 110°c. I'm asking this because it is easy heating my heatbed to a temp of 65°cby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's actually really simple, if you have a RAMPS and 1/16 steps drivers for your steppers, you need to install all the jumpers (3 under each driver).by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
That worked!! I could change the value Z retracts after a print. Thx!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I wonder if there are some good alternatives for Slicer and Cura. I prefer Slicer, but have some trouble with the installation on my pc. It works, but crashes all the time. Cura is more simplified, easy to use, but misses some settings possible in Slicer.by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
After I've finished a print with Cura, my Z axis moves like 15 cm up. If my print was higher than +- 8 cm i have a collision on max Z axis. This only happens with Cura, not with Slicer. Can't find the setting causing this. Any ideas?by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yep, that was the problem, find out yesterday thanks to some people on this forum. Everything works fine now. Thx for all the help!! Learned a lot in this build!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Jumpers are installed, and it works like a charm!! Nerdgasm!!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah Olaf, but I didn't really knew where you were talking about. My electronics came without the jumpers... Anyway, thx for the help!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
Just did some googling, and now everything becomes clear. You're a lifesaver man!!! I've been busy calibrating the last 3 days, without good results!! Seems like the jumpers weren't included in my electronics pack I've purchased on Aliexpress. First work tommorow is go get some jumpers!! Many thanks!!by Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteAudaciousTuddle It sounds like something is wrong with your microstepping. If you take the number they gave you (94) and devide it by 16 (a very common microstepping multiplier), you get 5.875. This is really close to the value you found to work. You should make sure that you have the little tiny black jumpers installed underneath your driver board. You might have to do some googling to figuby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants
I followed a calibrate procedure, and had to calculate the steps per unit, what gave me 6.4 steps per unit, what seems incredibly low to me. However, the result is VERY much better. I just can't comprehend why it is such a low value... According to the preconfigured firmware this had to be 94, but in that case my extruder feeds 12 cm when i asked 10mm (manually). Another thing that seems strangeby Nicken83 - Prusa i3 and variants